I want to replace the hatch boards on my Oday 272 which are currently teak plywood and have started to rot at the bottom. What alternative materials have others used? Does anyone have suggestions for suppliers of material for hatch covers including teak plywood and any other apprpriate materials.
Hatch Boards
- Thread starter bajgause
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What about
The real thing...solid teak. Wil be a bit expensive but you will never replacve them. If you are looking for a bit more light, acrylic is nice. We have acrylic slider & one piece hatch board and like them. David
The real thing...solid teak. Wil be a bit expensive but you will never replacve them. If you are looking for a bit more light, acrylic is nice. We have acrylic slider & one piece hatch board and like them. David
Lots of options
There are lots of options. You can get original replacement teak boards from D&R Marine. You can get some starboard and cut your own. You can go to a lcoal harward store and get sheets of plexiglass and cut your own (try smoked plexi vs. clear). Or there are a good number of places that will make plexi replacements if you send your exisiting boards.
There are lots of options. You can get original replacement teak boards from D&R Marine. You can get some starboard and cut your own. You can go to a lcoal harward store and get sheets of plexiglass and cut your own (try smoked plexi vs. clear). Or there are a good number of places that will make plexi replacements if you send your exisiting boards.
Get the grain right
I have some solid teak replacements, each section one solid board. They look great, but cup terrible, even refinished. If i was to make I'd use smaller pieces, with grain reversed, and glue up with epoxy. Or maybe smoked lexan?
I have some solid teak replacements, each section one solid board. They look great, but cup terrible, even refinished. If i was to make I'd use smaller pieces, with grain reversed, and glue up with epoxy. Or maybe smoked lexan?
Acrylic doors are easy to make.
my doors were in poor shape also, i used them as a templet and made a set of doors out of acrylic that are hinged at the outter edges and swing out. the acrylic is very easy to work with. and to get a nice finish sand with 220 grit sand paper where you cut and then use a propane torch to heat and melt the scratches. good luck with what ever you choose to do.
my doors were in poor shape also, i used them as a templet and made a set of doors out of acrylic that are hinged at the outter edges and swing out. the acrylic is very easy to work with. and to get a nice finish sand with 220 grit sand paper where you cut and then use a propane torch to heat and melt the scratches. good luck with what ever you choose to do.
Acrylic Doors are Great!
As Jeff did, I made a set of hatch boards of smoked acrylic for our Beneteau 321. Material ran about $60.00. Time to cut, sand, transfer hardware and polish with propane torch was only a few hours. They look great! s/v Parrot Tales, B321
As Jeff did, I made a set of hatch boards of smoked acrylic for our Beneteau 321. Material ran about $60.00. Time to cut, sand, transfer hardware and polish with propane torch was only a few hours. They look great! s/v Parrot Tales, B321
Terminology
Gee, everyone else knew what he was talking about and offered constructive advice. John offered a condecending vocabulary lesson and not much else.
Gee, everyone else knew what he was talking about and offered constructive advice. John offered a condecending vocabulary lesson and not much else.
Vote for one piece.
One of my favorite improvements is a single "wash board". I realize that space aboard is a consideration. But it is so much easier to lift/insert one board. I carry two, a solid marine plywood(3/4") and one with a screen and a plexiglass insert for more light. I played with stains to get a match with the old teak framework. Then applied several coats of varnish. They stow out of the way under the nav table.
One of my favorite improvements is a single "wash board". I realize that space aboard is a consideration. But it is so much easier to lift/insert one board. I carry two, a solid marine plywood(3/4") and one with a screen and a plexiglass insert for more light. I played with stains to get a match with the old teak framework. Then applied several coats of varnish. They stow out of the way under the nav table.
Why they were designed that way is;
In big sea's you can haVE 1 OR 2 OF A 3PART OR MORE SET OF BOARDS IN TO HELP KEEP WATER OUT BUT YOU CAN STILL GET IN AND OUT OF CABIN. That said,I don't sail out side much,so I designed a 2 part set that is hinged together and has a PVC leg,plus wingnuts,that make's it also a table that hooks to traviler that goes across cockpit.
In big sea's you can haVE 1 OR 2 OF A 3PART OR MORE SET OF BOARDS IN TO HELP KEEP WATER OUT BUT YOU CAN STILL GET IN AND OUT OF CABIN. That said,I don't sail out side much,so I designed a 2 part set that is hinged together and has a PVC leg,plus wingnuts,that make's it also a table that hooks to traviler that goes across cockpit.
Combination
I think that a combination of acrylic & teak gives the best of both worlds. One of my fellow harbor mates has a solid acrylic panel. It is very heavy and sort of a pain to store. If you are having problems with the bottom board rotting, you may want to consider just replacing that one with acrylic. Our H'31 has 5 sections. I have a screen that I use. I place the bottom board in place and the screen replaces the top 4 sections. In the winter I use about 3-4 sections and leave the top one out with the companionway cover partially covering the enterance. This help keep in the heat but still allows for some ventilation (especially when it is raining). If you are replacing the wood (with wood), I would recommend that you get solid teak. Otherwise consider a combination. It offers some privacy and still lets the light in.
I think that a combination of acrylic & teak gives the best of both worlds. One of my fellow harbor mates has a solid acrylic panel. It is very heavy and sort of a pain to store. If you are having problems with the bottom board rotting, you may want to consider just replacing that one with acrylic. Our H'31 has 5 sections. I have a screen that I use. I place the bottom board in place and the screen replaces the top 4 sections. In the winter I use about 3-4 sections and leave the top one out with the companionway cover partially covering the enterance. This help keep in the heat but still allows for some ventilation (especially when it is raining). If you are replacing the wood (with wood), I would recommend that you get solid teak. Otherwise consider a combination. It offers some privacy and still lets the light in.
Where to shop?
Sorry to jump on your thread, baj, but I'm in the same situation - lost one of three hatchboards over the side (whoops) and am using plain old plywood in its place for the time being. Question: Where do you buy a teak hatchboard? How about just a piece of teak to shape yourself? I've looked all over and can't find any. Thanks for any insight. Drew
Sorry to jump on your thread, baj, but I'm in the same situation - lost one of three hatchboards over the side (whoops) and am using plain old plywood in its place for the time being. Question: Where do you buy a teak hatchboard? How about just a piece of teak to shape yourself? I've looked all over and can't find any. Thanks for any insight. Drew
Ed Schenk, how ya doin'?
Saw your name on the "washboard" thread, and thought I'd check in. Did you make the North Channel trip this season? E-mail me and let's chat. Tom
Saw your name on the "washboard" thread, and thought I'd check in. Did you make the North Channel trip this season? E-mail me and let's chat. Tom
I used tinted plexiglass, about 3/4" thick, however, the UV caused some "crackling" in the plastic. I understand that Lexan (sp) is the material to use. Make sure you come up with a nice storage bag or they get sratched up. Tim
Hatchboards
My 272 came with the factory optional smoked acrylic hatchboards (two boards, I assume they are lexan and not plexiglass as they have held up for 17 years without crazing). I believe these were standard on the 272LE so you might seek out a pattern from a LE owner. Rudy at D&R may shed some light on the acrylic boards. The only downside to the plastic boards is they expand in the sun (they bow outward slightly and get tighter in bright sunlight) and can put stress on the teak verticals that the boards slide down into (a screw or two from the verticals have popped out from the fiberglass face they are screwed into). The boards show some scratches, I made a protective bag to store them in. I like the fact I don't have to varnish them as there is enough wood on the boat to maintain. Frank
My 272 came with the factory optional smoked acrylic hatchboards (two boards, I assume they are lexan and not plexiglass as they have held up for 17 years without crazing). I believe these were standard on the 272LE so you might seek out a pattern from a LE owner. Rudy at D&R may shed some light on the acrylic boards. The only downside to the plastic boards is they expand in the sun (they bow outward slightly and get tighter in bright sunlight) and can put stress on the teak verticals that the boards slide down into (a screw or two from the verticals have popped out from the fiberglass face they are screwed into). The boards show some scratches, I made a protective bag to store them in. I like the fact I don't have to varnish them as there is enough wood on the boat to maintain. Frank
we are trying solid oak
Our newly acquired sailboat has a badly delaminated bottom hatchboard (1 of 3). We are planing down some solid oak, will stain it as close as possible to the other brightwork and will seal and varnish the oak. Hopefully they will work well and last a long time!
Our newly acquired sailboat has a badly delaminated bottom hatchboard (1 of 3). We are planing down some solid oak, will stain it as close as possible to the other brightwork and will seal and varnish the oak. Hopefully they will work well and last a long time!
Oak is NOT a good choice.
Joanie: Oak is a poor choice for exterior wood on a boat. The open grain tends to get mold and mildew. I suggest that you contact H&L Marine in Southern Ca. They can sell you the teak or make them for you. I have a cover over my companionway and only refinish the boards about every 4-7 years.
Joanie: Oak is a poor choice for exterior wood on a boat. The open grain tends to get mold and mildew. I suggest that you contact H&L Marine in Southern Ca. They can sell you the teak or make them for you. I have a cover over my companionway and only refinish the boards about every 4-7 years.
Been there, said that
Archives contain a wonderful thread about woods. While other oaks are not suitable for marine use, white oak is. EXCEPT that white oak oddly enough has trouble with fresh water, like rainwater, so its not ideal for deck trim. Tropical hardwoods like teak, mahogany, and exotics are probably still the best bet for wood.
Archives contain a wonderful thread about woods. While other oaks are not suitable for marine use, white oak is. EXCEPT that white oak oddly enough has trouble with fresh water, like rainwater, so its not ideal for deck trim. Tropical hardwoods like teak, mahogany, and exotics are probably still the best bet for wood.
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