One thing I have not seen here yet was the use of any type brain efficiency external regenerating system (beers). Sometimes when I have a tough problem a couple doses and things magically become simple. Warning: results may vary.
Hardware for the job, before I make it worse.
- Thread starter dancing bear
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Just checked the chart, 15/64 is too large a hole to tap 1/4" holes in. If you are tapping the end cap you will need to helicoil it, or weld and drill, which is a pita. Either way the end cap has to come out, may want to think about a new one if available. If the bracket was originally riveted as someone said, you should have room for 1/4" rivets. take a piece of stiff wire and see how close the cap is to the spar. One thing I would be worried about is metal fatigue and corrosion in the aluminum spar, check for cracks around the holes. If the original design is weak, why not make a collar around the outside that includes the bracket? Or a bigger bracket that mounts to freshly drilled holes that are farther apart?
Gee this is hard. It's just four little holes.
I want to rivet. I don't want to take the cap off. More info....
The spar is 1/8" thick.
The spar and cap is 5/16" thick.
Can you recommend a source for a large manual rivet gun the hardware stores don't seem to have anything over 3/16"?
I want to rivet. I don't want to take the cap off. More info....
The spar is 1/8" thick.
The spar and cap is 5/16" thick.
Can you recommend a source for a large manual rivet gun the hardware stores don't seem to have anything over 3/16"?
This isn't the one I was thinking of, but couldnt find the manual one on the website. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98898
or get the rivets, prep the holes, get a sixpack and drag everything over to a body shop and ask if someone could rivet it for you. Another thought is the right size rivets were used on GM window regulators for many years, a GM 15a tech should be able to help, I would know, I are one
or get the rivets, prep the holes, get a sixpack and drag everything over to a body shop and ask if someone could rivet it for you. Another thought is the right size rivets were used on GM window regulators for many years, a GM 15a tech should be able to help, I would know, I are one
Before you go up a size try using JB Weld. You can generally find it on the counter of most auto-parts stores. Its a putty that dries hard as a rock and is tappable. The re-tap with a fine thread 10-32 or 1/4-28 which ever it is. Make sure you use the right drill size. I'm sure you can find them with google. The only concern I might have going larger is that the aluminum casting cracks easily. I had to replace my mast base because the PO cracked it doing the same think. Fortunately he had a backup mast base in the goody bag.
The pop rivets are used all over cats, at least on the Hobie and Sol Cat. They are made of aluminum and don't last forever especially in salt water. I ended up replacing all of mine on the channel that holds the trampoline. Its not an expensive tool.
The pop rivets are used all over cats, at least on the Hobie and Sol Cat. They are made of aluminum and don't last forever especially in salt water. I ended up replacing all of mine on the channel that holds the trampoline. Its not an expensive tool.
In case I was not clear, I did not mean bolt through the spar.
Sailingdog is right. That is why I said to take the bottom casting off. I can't remember whether it comes up as high as the holes, and you need to know that to find out what you are dealing with. It is not hard to remove. I built several of these spars from a bare tube.
Forget glue, though; if that fitting fails someone can get hurt.
I only meant through the one wall.
Sailingdog is right. That is why I said to take the bottom casting off. I can't remember whether it comes up as high as the holes, and you need to know that to find out what you are dealing with. It is not hard to remove. I built several of these spars from a bare tube.
Forget glue, though; if that fitting fails someone can get hurt.
How about this thing, I have no air compressor:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97757
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97757
I just looked closely at the picture you posted. Consider rivet nuts. They are made for this type of job. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/rivnuts.html
That should do the trick. Get rivets long enough to go through the casting if it does. Timo is that gun for pop rivets?
BTW Bear, I also used a gin pole to step the mast on the sol cat. You can hook it up to the bridle. Standing on the tramp or the center bar is a little shaky. I used the jib sheets as baby stays.
BTW Bear, I also used a gin pole to step the mast on the sol cat. You can hook it up to the bridle. Standing on the tramp or the center bar is a little shaky. I used the jib sheets as baby stays.
mmm, that's for plastic rivets, won't corrode, but...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66934 this may do the trick, but go into the local store and see if they still have the mechanical one that looks like this.
Ross, Rivit nuts are what I was thinking originally, I just couldn't remember what they were called. I have used them in the past and they really do work well.
I looked at an old Prindle mast I have and noted that the...
casting only extends up insdie the mast about 1 inch. The lower screws may be in the casting. The failed screw may not be.
I fear you simply are not going to know what you have unless the casting comes off. Not difficult.
Also, can the hinge fitting be moved to fresh metal on the other side? I can't remember on that model, but as I recall you rotate the mast and then insert the hinge pins. Is there some reason it can be rotated the oposite direection? Then you could go to original hole sizes and fittings.
Did someone drop the mast to cause the damage? I would check up higher, too.
casting only extends up insdie the mast about 1 inch. The lower screws may be in the casting. The failed screw may not be.
I fear you simply are not going to know what you have unless the casting comes off. Not difficult.
Also, can the hinge fitting be moved to fresh metal on the other side? I can't remember on that model, but as I recall you rotate the mast and then insert the hinge pins. Is there some reason it can be rotated the oposite direection? Then you could go to original hole sizes and fittings.
Did someone drop the mast to cause the damage? I would check up higher, too.
To avoid the problem in the future pick up a set of vix bits, most hardwares have them, spring loaded and self centering they make it very easy to drill perfectly centered holes.
I've often used double stick tape under brackets to locate them correctly, then drilled with a vix bit. The doublestick holds them in place so you can eyeball and measure to ensure correct positioning, and you can also leave it on where it helps to isolate different materials (or pull it so you can bed the item)
ken.
I've often used double stick tape under brackets to locate them correctly, then drilled with a vix bit. The doublestick holds them in place so you can eyeball and measure to ensure correct positioning, and you can also leave it on where it helps to isolate different materials (or pull it so you can bed the item)
ken.
I found a welding shop that filled in the holes in the mast, and attached the bracket with rivets for $70. I am very happy I stopped when I did and asked....thanks to all for your advice! The part's job is simply too important to be compromised by the workmanship I can personally deliver (I work in human resources!).
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