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It does wrap, but like I said, the luff is already tight, so I really don't use the halyard. I am thinking of using a swivel joint or two to see if that stop the twisting, but it isn't a big deal, since the Genoa istight on the forestay, and can't slip more than 1/2 inch up or down. If I can figure a way to secure the top of the genoa tight, I wouldn't need the halyard at all.
Thanks for the inspiration Gregg. Picked up everything today at OSH. What do you mean by styrene caps? I found a couple of 6" plastic plates for the drum.
What does the furler pivot on at the bottom?
I am going to try attaching the hanks to the pipe with some large zip ties. Seems like there will be less friction and wear on forestay.
I will also attach the the head to the pole and put a cunningham on the tack also cleated to the pvc pole. That should maintain tension on the luff.
I like the idea of using the PVC, it is just flexible enough to take the shape of the forestay this will keep the cable from kinking and bending where where it exits the furler. Unlike aluminum tubing that does not flex. On conventional furlers I believe that the furler clamps onto the cable which could lead to sharp flexing and fatigue. That has really been a concern of mine in the past, you will notice that there are numerous post on cable fray at the attachment point. I also read somewhere that someone put plastic tubing on the forestay at the exit point of the furler to reduce wear at that point. I'm not sure if that is necessary.
Again thanks for the inspiration,
Frank
What does the furler pivot on at the bottom?
I am going to try attaching the hanks to the pipe with some large zip ties. Seems like there will be less friction and wear on forestay.
I will also attach the the head to the pole and put a cunningham on the tack also cleated to the pvc pole. That should maintain tension on the luff.
I like the idea of using the PVC, it is just flexible enough to take the shape of the forestay this will keep the cable from kinking and bending where where it exits the furler. Unlike aluminum tubing that does not flex. On conventional furlers I believe that the furler clamps onto the cable which could lead to sharp flexing and fatigue. That has really been a concern of mine in the past, you will notice that there are numerous post on cable fray at the attachment point. I also read somewhere that someone put plastic tubing on the forestay at the exit point of the furler to reduce wear at that point. I'm not sure if that is necessary.
Again thanks for the inspiration,
Frank
How are you going to use the zip ties? I don't think that the zip ties will hold to the stress of the sail. I attached the hanks to the forestay just like it would be normally. I have a Johnson quick release that connects to the bow, and the 3/4" pipe rests on that and turns fairly freely. I am going to put a reducer bushing in and drop it to 1/2 so it will spin better and not get caught up. I did figure out the twisting of the Halyard at the top last night... Get a "Slip Fix" 3/4" it has to be the kind that you can pull apart. Take it apart by un srewing the outer part from the inner extension and pull the o-ring out and reassemble. Place the slip fix at the top of the furler and attach the halyard to it and walla, there is your rotaing top for the halyard. I have to buy one this weekend and I will assemble and take a couple of pics.
Styrene is a drain pipe that is used commercially. 6" is really large, and you might have to get them at a wholesaler In your area it might be Horizon or Ewing supply. I used to work for alarge outfit, and we would sell them to contractors for large commercial Applications. The reason I suggested that was because the cap is flat. If you found 6: caps that are flat and PVC, then you are good. The finished size of the drum is about 3 1/2" I cut the center out of the cap and then cut a hole in the center of the now disk, and inserted the bushing to accept the coupling in the middle.
The swivel is not what prevents halyard wrap, it is what causes it. You need to install a little halyard restrainer above the swivel and just below the jib halyard block at the hound to stop the halyard from being wrapped with the swivel. That is what I had to do.
Now I can't visualize. How is a restrainer going to keep the halyard from wraping around the fore stay? I think I have the solution, with the Slip Fix idea. The inner will stay stationary, and the bottom part that is connected to the furler will spin. Kind of like a bike wheel hub spins one way even though you can pedel backwards.
Thanks Gregg finished it yesterday and it works great!
I couldn't find the cover you recommended so I turned some out of some 3/16 aluminum flat stock. I used the 1/2" zip ties and kept them in place with small eyes. I prestrected the luff as suggested and them strapped the sail to the outside of the PVC. The eyes should keep them in place. Put it on yesterday with little hassle. Used small vice grips to hold furler up the cable while taking care of the rest of the business of pinning the forestay. The Johnson lever really makes it easy. I was able to use the old down haul guides for the furler rope.
The whole thing works smooth as silk.
I'm about to go pick up canvas for the cover. Ordered a couple of #10 plastic zippers from Ucan. It comes in 10 yd lengths for <$9.00
I couldn't find the cover you recommended so I turned some out of some 3/16 aluminum flat stock. I used the 1/2" zip ties and kept them in place with small eyes. I prestrected the luff as suggested and them strapped the sail to the outside of the PVC. The eyes should keep them in place. Put it on yesterday with little hassle. Used small vice grips to hold furler up the cable while taking care of the rest of the business of pinning the forestay. The Johnson lever really makes it easy. I was able to use the old down haul guides for the furler rope.
The whole thing works smooth as silk.
I'm about to go pick up canvas for the cover. Ordered a couple of #10 plastic zippers from Ucan. It comes in 10 yd lengths for <$9.00
Re: Thanks Gregg finished it yesterday and it works great!
Frank, can you take some pictures of the zip ties and the hooks you are using? I am not really seeing how you attached it. I have the hanks going through the pipe connecting to the forestay inside. That way the PVC is not having to bear the load the forestay is. Glad to see you got it to work.
Frank, can you take some pictures of the zip ties and the hooks you are using? I am not really seeing how you attached it. I have the hanks going through the pipe connecting to the forestay inside. That way the PVC is not having to bear the load the forestay is. Glad to see you got it to work.
This pvc furler is what came factory on my 1974 Chrysler Mutineer 15'. I like it. Simple and works well. Will have to try it on my 26s.
Another question for Gregg9020
I am a little late to this discussion but Gregg, I think that your furling solution is great and you do an excellent job describing how to construct it!
I plan to install one the first chance that I get. I have a couple of questions though:
I am not familiar with a Johnson lever, that it but my impression is that it has an even surface allowing drum to revolve on it?
My other question regards the "slip fix" idea, I'm not familiar with a slip fix either, but a web search shows it as an adjustable slip connection for repairing pvc. I take it that you some how connect your halyard to the one end of the fitting, and the bottom spins inside of the fitting without causing the halyard to twist around the forestay; acts ike a bushing?
Any chance you could post a picture of this part? Maybe if I find the fitting to see it would be obvious. Thanks...
I am a little late to this discussion but Gregg, I think that your furling solution is great and you do an excellent job describing how to construct it!
I plan to install one the first chance that I get. I have a couple of questions though:
I am not familiar with a Johnson lever, that it but my impression is that it has an even surface allowing drum to revolve on it?
My other question regards the "slip fix" idea, I'm not familiar with a slip fix either, but a web search shows it as an adjustable slip connection for repairing pvc. I take it that you some how connect your halyard to the one end of the fitting, and the bottom spins inside of the fitting without causing the halyard to twist around the forestay; acts ike a bushing?
Any chance you could post a picture of this part? Maybe if I find the fitting to see it would be obvious. Thanks...
Wow, I'm pretty creative, but this is really blew me away.
I've been looking for a furler but finances prohibit it right now. This looks like a way to go. Since I singlehand 99% of the time this may be my best bet.
Any problems when reefed?
Thanks for the inspiration!
PS
I bet all the furler manufacturers hated to see this!
I've been looking for a furler but finances prohibit it right now. This looks like a way to go. Since I singlehand 99% of the time this may be my best bet.
Any problems when reefed?
Thanks for the inspiration!
PS
I bet all the furler manufacturers hated to see this!
I can take a photo today. No problems reefing, or reefed. I do think it is less efficient when partially reefed, but I am not racing, so comfort is what it is all about. Winds come up fast and hard in San Francisco Bay...
I have a 1" slip Fix, but you need a 3/4" for the furler. Let me know if you have any questions.
I hope the Furler companies don't find me. I a just needed it and I don't have 700.00 to buy the furler and another 500-600.00 for a new sail either..... That is why we have MacGregors
I have a 1" slip Fix, but you need a 3/4" for the furler. Let me know if you have any questions.
I hope the Furler companies don't find me. I a just needed it and I don't have 700.00 to buy the furler and another 500-600.00 for a new sail either..... That is why we have MacGregors
How to attach the halyard
As I understand it, the furler revolves on the thiner portion of the slip Fix and the halyard attaches to the top, thick portion. What do you use to attach the halyard?
As I understand it, the furler revolves on the thiner portion of the slip Fix and the halyard attaches to the top, thick portion. What do you use to attach the halyard?
Re: How to attach the halyard
I glued the smaller end to the bell end of the pvc pipe at the top, and drilled as small a ole as I could to get the shakle in. I haven't tested it yet, but I will be heading out in early February. From everything I can see it should work. The furler itself worked great in 15-20 MPH wind back in September. As soon as I get a sock made for the Genny, I will set it up and test. I can't see anything that could go wrong.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
I glued the smaller end to the bell end of the pvc pipe at the top, and drilled as small a ole as I could to get the shakle in. I haven't tested it yet, but I will be heading out in early February. From everything I can see it should work. The furler itself worked great in 15-20 MPH wind back in September. As soon as I get a sock made for the Genny, I will set it up and test. I can't see anything that could go wrong.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
This looks like the furler on my early '70s MacGregor catamaran. I used a 11/4" alum. pipe and a windsurfer sail for the jib - not ideal but works great.
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