Handrail Fasteners

N

n4lbl

.
Oct 7, 2008
307
Half of the handrail fasteners (in and above the main cabin) are of plain
steel and all are wood screws. The three possibilities that I've found for
replacements are:

#12-11 x 4" Flat Head Slotted Drive Sharp Point Plain Finish 18-8 Stainless Steel Wood Screw | Fastenal
#10-8 x 4" Bugle Head Square Drive Plain Finish Sharp Point 18-8 Stainless Steel Deck Screw | Fastenal
#12 x 4" Bugle Head Square Drive Plain Finish Type 17 Drive 305 Stainless Steel Wood Screw | FastenalAre there any reasons to chose one over another, or other possibilities
I've missed?? I've read that I should convert to machine screws but I am
loathe to do that due to fear of leaks through the topside bungs that will
be required. Should I reconsider??

thanx,,,
Alan
Minke #2505[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
T

tim_klynn

.
Feb 12, 2008
337
Mine were the original bronze screws. I had a couple break (while removing the handrails to rebed them) and replaced them with bronze screws. The only place I could find some long enough were from these guys: Classic Boat Connection classic boat restoration catalog
Through bolting with machine screws would be stronger, but as you point out, susceptible to leaks, but I would guess a well glued in bung would not leak.
The biggest problem with bungs would be trying to tighten the machine screws later, you'd have to drill out the bungs to access the screws.
The biggest concern I have with screws is that if the wood splits, the handrails may come off. It seems like it is always a trade off.
. I also wondered about hidden anerobic corrosion of the stainless, which is why I stuck with bronze wood screws. tg________________________________
From: n4lbl alan.schulman@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:10 PM
Subject: [AlbinVega] Handrail Fasteners



Half of the handrail fasteners (in and above the main cabin) are of plain
steel and all are wood screws. The three possibilities that I've found for
replacements are:

Loading…

www.fastenal.com

Loading…

www.fastenal.com

Loading…

www.fastenal.com

Are there any reasons to chose one over another, or other possibilities
I've missed?? I've read that I should convert to machine screws but I am
loathe to do that due to fear of leaks through the topside bungs that will
be required. Should I reconsider??

thanx,,,
Alan
Minke #2505
 
V

vegatern

.
Oct 2, 2005
465
I through bolted the deck handrail to the cabin handrail. Not that difficult if you're careful. The top recess is filled with a bung set in varnish. The interior holes for the nuts have been left open with the intention of covering with ropework, (which may someday actually be done). An alternative would have been to leave a round headed bolt proud in the cabin and the nut in the hole on top, but I didn't think of that 'till later.

Craig Tern #1519
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
I replaced the original bronze screws with same-sized stainless ones like the link in tiempo2010's message. It's an elegant way of attaching both inside and outside rails, leaving no hole in the top of the outer rail, and certainly adequate for a coastal cruiser, as long as the wood is sound.
My preference for an offshore boat would be 1" stainless rails through bolted and with backing plates ... pretty strong!

Peter
www.sintacha.com
 
R

rchrdcoe

.
Dec 11, 2007
179
- - port st. lucie,fl.
I replaced the handrail screws with the nut topside under the bung. The the oval heads were left exposed cabin side. I also switched the rails from inside to topside. My topside rails were so eroded from weather that i wanted the additional mat'l for the bungs. Also stronger where it is needed. Richard
 
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