hand rail details on a S2 9.2a

[Bergovoy]

I need details for the deck mounted grab rails.

are theystandard teak loop type hand rails, or is there a wood or metal stand offs that spaces out a flat wood rail???

pictures would be great

thanks

 

[bugbitten]

The grab rails are flat on the bottom. Originally, there was a wooden plug inside the stainless cylinders, but these tend to rot and shrink over the years. I followed my hero BobM's suggestion and replaced my plugs with cut and drilled pieces of Delrin rod (I cut them to length, with the proper angle, on my chop saw - not a procedure I'd recommend if you value your fingers). The Delrin is probably more trouble than it's worth, but no more rot in that department! I may have some pics. I'll upload them if I do.

John

 

[BobM]

Details of how they were made are in the famous 13 page letter on this sites knowledgebase. They cut flat stock on a table saw in a hexagonal shape, smoothed it, drilled it and bent it into place...with lots of help...as I recall.

 

[Bergovoy]

sorry for my delay. I didnt get a notification of your replies..

I read the 13 page letter thing and yes, it mentioned it briefly about the slight bend. so that makes it wood, and not metal..

I dont care about matching the profile/edges. im more concerned about the loop distanced. I currently see holes that wete poorly patchef that are 19" spacing. approx..

that is wider then most others.

I would also luke to confurm hieght, <sp?>


again pics would help.. with scale if possible.

I would like to see the ends, the middles, and everuthing possible.


it doesnt have to be original. what do you all have?


also, where do you have interior grab rails that are mounted to the same screws as the deck rails...

 

[BobM]

There are short stubs of stainless tubing that have wooden plugs that fit inside them. The plugs are drilled so the pan headed stainless machine screws pass through the rail, through the center of the wood plug with the stainless tube and through the hull. Acorn nuts with washers hold the rail on the inside. I would hate to try to make these rails from scratch. Are yours missing?

 

[Bergovoy]

correct. I have nothing on deck. a teak grabrail would be about $500

grab rails are cheap, but they are shorter adhd the lopes are not as wide

 

[BobM]

Sorry to hear it.

Man, if I were in your situation I don't know what I would do. With the cost of a piece of teak that big so utterly ridiculous I might be tempted to go stainless somehow. At least I wouldn't have to maintain it anymore, but I think it would detract from the looks of the boat. I think I would them probably default to a composite product and hit it with a router to get a profile that was close. I would stick to the original stainless tube stand-offs to keep the look the same. Woody is our best woodworker/cabinet maker. I hope he chimes in on this one.

 

[BobM]

Re: Sorry to hear it.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs...gs-you-need-to-know-about-plastic-lumber.aspx has some good tips. The flexibility of composite would help in this application for sure. Also, you would have to start with a 16 foot length as they are longer than they look. I took mine home and they ran from the windshield of my Tundra double cab all the way to the tailgate, so they must be 12 feet or so.

I'd probably start with the pros and call http://www.plasteak.com to discuss it. They can definitely do it and it and perhaps they can make you oval stock for a starting point it you want to DIY.

 

[woodster]

Man, if I were in your situation I don't know what I would do. With the cost of a piece of teak that big so utterly ridiculous I might be tempted to go stainless somehow. At least I wouldn't have to maintain it anymore, but I think it would detract from the looks of the boat. I think I would them probably default to a composite product and hit it with a router to get a profile that was close. I would stick to the original stainless tube stand-offs to keep the look the same. Woody is our best woodworker/cabinet maker. I hope he chimes in on this one.

thanks for the vote of confidence Bob.......as far as the hand/grab rail is concerned they are about 13'- 6" long and about 11/16's inch thick by about 2 and 1/4 inch wide ...with a round edge on one side and a chamfered edge on the other side cut to about a 60 degree angle...they are made out of teak....it is possible for him to get the teak in that dimension maybe from a wood supplier in Mami Fl or Teak East in Donald's SC ...dont know what the freight will be but his best bet is to call the suppler in Mami and drive over there and pick it up if they have that length in stock....i will try to get to my boat some time today and get accurate dimensions and post them here...it is gloomy and rainy here today....

hope this helps...

regards

woody

 

[woodster]

ok here is a profile of the hand/grab rail....it measures 13 foot even on my boat but i would cut it about 6 inches longer just incase.....the ends are also cut on a bevel as well

hope this helps

regards

woody

 

[Bergovoy]

love that sketch.. you must be an engineer...

how does the wood fit into the 'stand offs'.... a picture of the rails on your boat would be very helpful....

And yea, I came up with 12-6' length, but that is with a tape measure and no one to help me hold the dumb end and or following any curve... so, 13' sounds about right...

I really am not too worried about matching the 'profile', but rather how to mount it.... if I use round aluminum or SST 'stand offs', with wood inside at the base. I envision the stand off to be about 1 to 1-1/2" length... but am not sure if the top of the stand off is flat/square cut, and or if it is cut round(ish) to match the bottom of the teak rail? or in the case of your sketch, is the top of the metal stand off, NOTCHED, to recieve the 45degree cut of the teak rail?

hopefully you are still at your boat and can take some pics of how it is mounted...

also, the spacing is longer/wider then normal hand rails... how does it match the interior grab rails....are the interior hand holds speced out to match the same bolt pattern??

thanks

 

[woodster]

i have not reinstalled the hand rail as of yet ....here is an updated sketch....maybe this will help....i turned teak wood dowels to go inside the ss tubes and also pre drilled the 1/4 inch holes while still in the lathe...and then used penitrating epoxy to seal the teak once inside ....the dowels are a press fit...i let them soak up in to the wood in a plastic pan in order to get saturation then when all was setup and dry useing a disc sander faced off the wood to match the ss stand offs....as far as the interior grab rails...the manufactured ones will not match the screw dimentions of the factory hand rails...if you desire the interior hand rails you will have to custom make them to match you hole pattern or you can fill you factory holes and gel coat them and drill new mounting holes in the outside hand rail to match the manufactured ones....this all depends on how much you desire the inside hand grab rails....bear in mind it is a lot of work either way ....hope this helps....

regards

woody

 

[Bergovoy]

awesome... thanks so much. I nderstan now. I dont quire like that edge at the 45° ... seems a a bit hard to grasp...

I will do something a bit different but functional...


as for the interior, my concern is having a nut or fastener in the middle of the loop, and stubbing a finger when grasping the grab rail..

custom rails arent that expensive...

 

[BobM]

Why do you want interior grab rails? They never had them from the factory and unless you are really planning some rough voyages they are probably unnecessary and will complicate the installation.

 

[Bergovoy]

I figured thet werent original on the interior as the cieling fabric shows everything..

the prior owner installed a pair. I like them. my boat is cluttered. I am a klutz. I need a lot of help. I will install one up in the vberth to help me up ahd swing aroynd. again, I am larger, a klutz, and dont move easily. the berth rails will definately help..

 

[DEB AND DION]

Instead Of Wood Inside The Ss Tubes I Used 2 Short Peices Of Rubber Hose. One Inside The Other. To Take Up The Space. Then Used 3-m 4200 To Seal It So Water Will Not Leak Past The Screws.

 

[Bergovoy]

I made some progress today, but it was kinda likethree steps forward, two steps back....

first problem was I could only get 1100 rpms. 1.5 -2 knts over ground. (i had my sails stowed)

then I was dragging my dinghy, and the bow shackle broke...

I was 2+ hrs behind the high tide I needed...

finally got the boat hauled and the bottom was pretty clean for not being painted in 7years. yes, the prop was fouled more then the bottom paint.

but, the strut is cracked/broken. a small fingernail clipping is missing on the prop side....

woody, can you please pm the contact info for the mfg of the strut and ballpark price that you paid and when????

ive seen some publications on replacing struts, bu2 dont they need to be alined during installation??

did you do the work or have someone do it for you... how many hours did it take???

 

[woodster]

I made some progress today, but it was kinda likethree steps forward, two steps back....

first problem was I could only get 1100 rpms. 1.5 -2 knts over ground. (i had my sails stowed)

then I was dragging my dinghy, and the bow shackle broke...

I was 2+ hrs behind the high tide I needed...

finally got the boat hauled and the bottom was pretty clean for not being painted in 7years. yes, the prop was fouled more then the bottom paint.

but, the strut is cracked/broken. a small fingernail clipping is missing on the prop side....

woody, can you please pm the contact info for the mfg of the strut and ballpark price that you paid and when???? i sent you the info in an email

ive seen some publications on replacing struts, bu2 dont they need to be alined during installation?? yes they do no two are ever the same so be ready to do that

did you do the work or have someone do it for you... how many hours did it take???

yes i did and it took me about 3 hrs shiming and thighting and checking and re shimming and so on till i got it correct all the way around the shaft..... this is tough work if you dont have a helper on the inside of the hull tighting and loosing the bolts...lots of climbing in and out ...but what they hay it was a good cardio work out lol