I have a hand crank that came with the Hunter 27C that I purchased this year. I don't know why since the cabinetry make it impossible to get more than 180 degrees of cranking. Is there something I am missing? Must I remove the sink cabinet to be able to use the hand crank? I like the idea of a backup in case of a battery failure. It is also a nice feature for some of the maintenance tasks that need to be done. Has anyone had this same problem and solved it simply?
Hand crank for 1GM10
- Thread starter sandflee
- Start date
Hand cranks unfortunately are a thing of the past. Today most boaters solve that problem with a subscription to tow insurance services and upgraded battery banks with built in redundancy. I personally liked the capabilities of being able to hand crank the auxiliary but have to recognize that times have changed and things are different now. What I mean to say is don't bust your brains trying to modify the cabinetry for something that you will likely have no use for.
There is always the possibility that it may have come with the wrong crank handle. What year is the boat as the Cherubinis were not OEM fitted with the 1GM-10? Was the boat repowered or do you have a latter model? A picture speaks 1000 words and may get you a better response.
Well, you have had better luck than I! I have a hand crank for my 1GM and I can't make it work. The engine otherwise starts right up in normal operation.
Alan it is not easy at best and that is why most sailors do not use them. A Yanmar has no glow plugs and builds up heat by the compression of repetitive strokes. Using the compression release just gets you turning the engine but when the lever is released you still have to build compression. On newer engines it is easier but on worn engines you really have to crank and fast. To hand start a cold older engine is almost impossible. I'm sure the 800 pound Gorillas can do it everytime but for us mere mortals a large battery bank with a backup does it best. And that is the 1GM, you do not see the capabilities in the larger 2 and 3 cyl engines and boat design no longer considers it. What I wonder is why Yanmar did not do away with the crank handle years ago at least for the US market.
All good comments - thank you. The 1GM10 is a repower for my 1980 H27C. I think it was repowered in 1993. That is probably the best explanation of why the hand crank impossible position. I have owned two single cylinder diesels in the past, both powered generators, one was a Lister and the other a China Diesel. Both relied on hand cranks. I will likely not be using this one. Thanks again everybody.
The hand crank is useful for other things besides starting the engine. For example, you can use it to adjust the position of the cam in relation to the fuel pump when the thumb-actuated lever is used to prime your fuel system. It could also be helpful when you need to do a valve adjustment. But for actually starting the engine? Meh....
I had a hand crank on my 1978 H-27. You had to remove the steps and put them aside in order to crank the engine. But it worked. It was a bit of a workout but not to difficult. One year I developed a bad connection somewhere in the wiring harness and I couldn't diagnose the problem while on the water. It was the only way to start the motor!
What I'd do was set the throttle in the cockpit at about 1/2 and shift into neutral. I then pulled the steps of and put them aside. This gave you access to the front of the Yanmar. I'd then flip the compression release (mine stayed in the open position until you flipped the lever back). Then I'd insert the crank. With the steps aside you could crank without hitting anything but it was a little tight and if you or the handle slipped of you'd bust a knuckle.
I'd crank it as fast as I could for about 4 or 5 turns, pull the handle off and flip the compression release. It would usually start on the 2nd or the 3rd attempt. Even with only 1 cylinder it was a work out and I only had about 5 tries in me... but it almost always started.by the 2nd try....If not I'd rest a bit and try again.
Later after the season was over I cleaned all the connections behind the engine panel in the cockpit and the starting problem was resolved.
If you do lengthen the handle to fit you situation make that you keep the slip fitting on the end of the crank. Otherwise you'll break you wrist, knee or leg if the engine starts up and the crank handle keeps spinning.
Good Luck!
What I'd do was set the throttle in the cockpit at about 1/2 and shift into neutral. I then pulled the steps of and put them aside. This gave you access to the front of the Yanmar. I'd then flip the compression release (mine stayed in the open position until you flipped the lever back). Then I'd insert the crank. With the steps aside you could crank without hitting anything but it was a little tight and if you or the handle slipped of you'd bust a knuckle.
I'd crank it as fast as I could for about 4 or 5 turns, pull the handle off and flip the compression release. It would usually start on the 2nd or the 3rd attempt. Even with only 1 cylinder it was a work out and I only had about 5 tries in me... but it almost always started.by the 2nd try....If not I'd rest a bit and try again.
Later after the season was over I cleaned all the connections behind the engine panel in the cockpit and the starting problem was resolved.
If you do lengthen the handle to fit you situation make that you keep the slip fitting on the end of the crank. Otherwise you'll break you wrist, knee or leg if the engine starts up and the crank handle keeps spinning.
Good Luck!
I tried on my old engine and neve quite got there but if anyone needs a handle from a YSb 12 I have one I'd be glad to pass along if someon pays the freight. Otherwise I will continue to use it to repel boarders.
Same experience as Nelsonhow above. I'm thinking the 1GM10 conversion has either left you with less crank space...or the GM handcrank handle is longer. I could even start a cold engine with just a few strokes when my boat was newer, but I don't know about now. Oh yes, and the crank could be a knucklebuster if your hand wasn't positioned just-so. Good thing it's a 1cyl diesel and not a Model-T because a backfire would really cause some damage to the old hand in such a confined space!
My Grandpa Sid, many years gone now, was an ace mechanics. When he died he left me many of his tools and many were from, he said, a Model T tool box (I assume he car came with it and many still have the Ford Logo on it). His hands were about as big as pie plates and he could crack walnuts between his fingers. All except his right thumb. There was a scar on it almost all the way around. It was from a license plate on a Model T he was cranking when the motor backfired and the handle slipped and he almost lost his thumb. When I was a kid he taught me how to do a valve job, manually lapping the valves. Great guy who taught me a lot and not just about motors....I miss him.