Halyards Re-Routed

J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
I finally finished the work re-routing the halyards. I now have four
lines running across the existing blocks at the top of the mast. I
used halyard exit plates from Schaeffer Marine. The lines exit the
mast about 9 & 10 feet from the base (step), respectively. They are
offset to minimize any potential mast strength issues. I was lucky
and could consult with someone who made the conversion about 8 years
ago. He also recommended offsetting the exit points (due to a friend
who didn't offset and lost his spar).

So, we'll see how it goes. If I don't lose the spar in the next
couple years, we'll be able to call it a success. If the spar goes,
then I wouldn't recommend it.

Jack
V2620
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Jack,
Sounds like you have it well in hand. Any chance of posting some
pictures?
Do you have the gold coloured or silver coloured mast? I'm really
interested to know details of what you did at the top of the mast.
Does it look like mine in these pictures?

Loading…

www3.telus.net

Loading…

www3.telus.net

Thanks!
Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Peter,
Bella does not have the gold colored mast. It is silver-ish. It
looks almost exactly like yours does at the top. Except that I have a
roller furling system in place of what looks to be a standard forestay
on Tacha. The new setup allows me to use the two sets of rollers
(built in blocks) at the top of the mast as four separate blocks. I
believe I'll be able to run the Spinaker off of one of them (where in
your photo you have a separate block attached. Or perhaps that
forward block is for the jib?

Why did you run the line through the aft side of the mast head, then
through the external block on the forward side? Before the change, I
used the block that is attached externally on the forward side of the
mast head for the chute. There were two other lines for the main and jib.

I'll be at the boat this weekend and will try to remember to shoot
some photos. It will be easier for me to describe it when I can point
to a picture and say "here it is."

Take care,
Jack
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Jack,
My top of my furler sits a bit lower, so is not in view in the
photos. The furler has it's own internal halyard, so my jib halyard
(on the port side) is idle. Yes, the block ahead of the forestay is
for the spinaker. Being ahead of the stay keeps the head of the sail
well clear of the rigging, especially nice when tacking.

The starboard side halyard is for the main. I still have the original
wire/rope halyards.

The photo is an old one. The unused jib halyard was routed through
the external block forward of the masthead so the head of the
spinaker clears the forestay. I've since changed this, removing the
jib halyard from the external block and running a new separate all-
rope halyard for the spinaker.

The only thing I use the jib halyard for is hoisting the dinghy
aboard.

My system certainly needs an overhaul, so I'm collecting ideas for
a 'master plan'.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Peter,
Now I understand. I'll definitely try to post some photos this
weekend (probably Sunday night). My furler does not have its own
internal halyard. So having the extra halyards is nice.

What kind of dinghy do you have? I've been considering building one.
Chesapeak Light Craft has a designs for a nice little pram.
Unfortunately, it is still about 3 inches too long to fit forward of
the mast without overlapping the cleat.

Jack
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Jack,
My first dinghy was a "Rachael", scaled down to fit on a smaller boat
than the Vega. Plans at http://www.riparia.org/rachel.html

I scaled it down 10%, and discovered later that I should only have
scaled down the length and not the width. The result was a bit
unstable, but still able to carry two people in calm water. I built
it from scrap I had on hand and it's proved to be a tough, capable
little tender that fits on deck and also tows well. Weight about
65lbs.

Recently I built an Eastport Pram, like the one you're looking at.
Here's a link to the building album:

Loading…

picasaweb.google.com

It fits on the foredeck of the Vega. The forward transom has a
handhold cutout that slips neatly over the Vega bow cleat when the
dinghy is upside down on deck. It's a tight fit, but quite do-able.
You have to scoot along the top of the dinghy to get forward when
anchoring, but again: quite do-able. Weight about 70lbs.

Half way through the Eastport project I discovered skin-on-frame
boats and bought a set of plans for the "Black Fly" pram.

This is a picture from the web:

Loading…

www3.telus.net

and a link to the plans:

Black Fly 8 - Geodesic AiroLITE Boats

www.gaboats.com

Plat Montford is the designer, and has a website with his Geodesic
Airolite boat designs at Geodesic AiroLITE Boats - ultra lightweight SOF canoes and boats; plans, projects and tutorials

At 28lbs this little pram is very appealing. I can visualize bending
over the side of the Vega and lifting the dinghy on deck with one
hand. I'm going to build one, hopefully this year.
One can never have too many dinghys :)

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Peter,
I didn't make it to the boat this weekend to take photos. I'll make
it some time this week. It was just too cold. She is indoors, but
its unheated. So, in the tough decision between freezing on the boat
or playing with our grandchildren where its warm, the grandchildren
won out.

My apologies. Photos coming soon.
Jack
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
Peter,
I finally made it out to the boat and posted some photos of the
halyard work in Bella's photo album. Take a look and let me know if
you have any questions. Essentially, I re-routed the halyards
internally through the mast. They exit about about 10 feet and 11
feet respectively on each side of the mast. Both sides are similar,
but opposite. For example, on the starboard side, the forward halyard
exits at 11 feet, on the port side, the forward halyard exits at 10 feet.

The mast is lying across some saw horses. So, I tested the system by
having my wife pull on one end while I pull on the other. Not very
scientific, but everything seemed be smooth.

I also installed the anchor light you see in the photos. It was a
good time to do both jobs as fishing the halyards through the mast was
a beast.

If there is a loss of strength at the exit points, I could lose the
mast. But I talked to three other people that performed the job and I
think I'm good to go. These older masts are a little thicker than the
new ones. In addition, by offsetting the exit plates, there is
minimal strength loss at any one section. One of the three people I
discussed the project with lost his mast...he didn't offset the exit
plates. My other technical adviser is a guy named Gene Cramer (Cramer
Marine). He is absolutely brilliant. He recommended offsetting and
did the same job on his boat several years ago.

I hope this helps a bit. Now I've got so many halyards, I'm not sure
what I'm going to do with them all.

Rock on, brother.
Jack
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Jack,
It looks like a good job, well thought out. You certainly have lots
of halyard options now. I like the topping lift. Right now mine is on
the port side of the mast, somewhat lower than the head of the sail,
and chafes on the sail when on the starbord tack.
Next time my mast is down ...... :)
Right now I'm working on a propane setup for cabin heat.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
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