Hailing Captain Patrick
- Thread starter LANCE ON CLOUD NINE
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- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
you talking to me?
I am Patrick, the free boat guy. "what floats my boat"? You mean what is keeping it afloat? Or what am i doing with it? Anyway, I have gutted the cabin forward of the galley. Removed all bulkheads and cabinetry. I need to grind the tabing close to the hull. Then i am gonna pressure wash the outside and inside of the boat. Then i will use silicone caulk to seal everything up outside the boat before i start rebuilding the floor and bulkheads. Don't want the new wood to get wet. I assume there are more than just a few leaks, windows, wood toe rail, hatches....i spent some money two days ago-250$ on resin, glass, and gelcoat, acetone, brushes, etc. Lots of holes in the cabin ceiling need filling, also will gelcoat the hull floor inside, to clean it up. I am haveing an internal conflict with the selection of the plywood. I have a DIY boat building book that says i can use AC or BC grade plywood if i seal it good. I was gonna use it but i took pics of the boat to work yesterday and got alot of people tell me to use marine grade. Guess i will check around at lumber yards for availability. I think lowes or hd have marine grade 1/2" ply, but i was gonna use 3/4". I was gonna use wolmanized (pressure treated" studs for floor and maybe some nailers inside cabinets? What does everyone think? Also, i plan on glassing the hull-deck joint to seal it and reinforce it? Thanks, Patrick. P>S>, still looking for a 30-50hp diesel cheap. I have the old one about half apart, heads off, alternator. Gotta go inside bilge area to get to transmision end of engine. So far bolts have come out like butter, the cylinders look good inside!? May get it out and take apart, pressure wash and take it to a mechanis for opinions on rebuildability. Kind of getting side tracked on what to do next. So much to do!
I am Patrick, the free boat guy. "what floats my boat"? You mean what is keeping it afloat? Or what am i doing with it? Anyway, I have gutted the cabin forward of the galley. Removed all bulkheads and cabinetry. I need to grind the tabing close to the hull. Then i am gonna pressure wash the outside and inside of the boat. Then i will use silicone caulk to seal everything up outside the boat before i start rebuilding the floor and bulkheads. Don't want the new wood to get wet. I assume there are more than just a few leaks, windows, wood toe rail, hatches....i spent some money two days ago-250$ on resin, glass, and gelcoat, acetone, brushes, etc. Lots of holes in the cabin ceiling need filling, also will gelcoat the hull floor inside, to clean it up. I am haveing an internal conflict with the selection of the plywood. I have a DIY boat building book that says i can use AC or BC grade plywood if i seal it good. I was gonna use it but i took pics of the boat to work yesterday and got alot of people tell me to use marine grade. Guess i will check around at lumber yards for availability. I think lowes or hd have marine grade 1/2" ply, but i was gonna use 3/4". I was gonna use wolmanized (pressure treated" studs for floor and maybe some nailers inside cabinets? What does everyone think? Also, i plan on glassing the hull-deck joint to seal it and reinforce it? Thanks, Patrick. P>S>, still looking for a 30-50hp diesel cheap. I have the old one about half apart, heads off, alternator. Gotta go inside bilge area to get to transmision end of engine. So far bolts have come out like butter, the cylinders look good inside!? May get it out and take apart, pressure wash and take it to a mechanis for opinions on rebuildability. Kind of getting side tracked on what to do next. So much to do!
- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
you talking to me?
I am Patrick, the free boat guy. "what floats my boat"? You mean what is keeping it afloat? Or what am i doing with it? Anyway, I have gutted the cabin forward of the galley. Removed all bulkheads and cabinetry. I need to grind the tabing close to the hull. Then i am gonna pressure wash the outside and inside of the boat. Then i will use silicone caulk to seal everything up outside the boat before i start rebuilding the floor and bulkheads. Don't want the new wood to get wet. I assume there are more than just a few leaks, windows, wood toe rail, hatches....i spent some money two days ago-250$ on resin, glass, and gelcoat, acetone, brushes, etc. Lots of holes in the cabin ceiling need filling, also will gelcoat the hull floor inside, to clean it up. I am haveing an internal conflict with the selection of the plywood. I have a DIY boat building book that says i can use AC or BC grade plywood if i seal it good. I was gonna use it but i took pics of the boat to work yesterday and got alot of people tell me to use marine grade. Guess i will check around at lumber yards for availability. I think lowes or hd have marine grade 1/2" ply, but i was gonna use 3/4". I was gonna use wolmanized (pressure treated" studs for floor and maybe some nailers inside cabinets? What does everyone think? Also, i plan on glassing the hull-deck joint to seal it and reinforce it? Thanks, Patrick. P>S>, still looking for a 30-50hp diesel cheap. I have the old one about half apart, heads off, alternator. Gotta go inside bilge area to get to transmision end of engine. So far bolts have come out like butter, the cylinders look good inside!? May get it out and take apart, pressure wash and take it to a mechanis for opinions on rebuildability. Kind of getting side tracked on what to do next. So much to do!
I am Patrick, the free boat guy. "what floats my boat"? You mean what is keeping it afloat? Or what am i doing with it? Anyway, I have gutted the cabin forward of the galley. Removed all bulkheads and cabinetry. I need to grind the tabing close to the hull. Then i am gonna pressure wash the outside and inside of the boat. Then i will use silicone caulk to seal everything up outside the boat before i start rebuilding the floor and bulkheads. Don't want the new wood to get wet. I assume there are more than just a few leaks, windows, wood toe rail, hatches....i spent some money two days ago-250$ on resin, glass, and gelcoat, acetone, brushes, etc. Lots of holes in the cabin ceiling need filling, also will gelcoat the hull floor inside, to clean it up. I am haveing an internal conflict with the selection of the plywood. I have a DIY boat building book that says i can use AC or BC grade plywood if i seal it good. I was gonna use it but i took pics of the boat to work yesterday and got alot of people tell me to use marine grade. Guess i will check around at lumber yards for availability. I think lowes or hd have marine grade 1/2" ply, but i was gonna use 3/4". I was gonna use wolmanized (pressure treated" studs for floor and maybe some nailers inside cabinets? What does everyone think? Also, i plan on glassing the hull-deck joint to seal it and reinforce it? Thanks, Patrick. P>S>, still looking for a 30-50hp diesel cheap. I have the old one about half apart, heads off, alternator. Gotta go inside bilge area to get to transmision end of engine. So far bolts have come out like butter, the cylinders look good inside!? May get it out and take apart, pressure wash and take it to a mechanis for opinions on rebuildability. Kind of getting side tracked on what to do next. So much to do!
Good to hear from you again...
...and to hear what you're doing. If you don't use marine plywood, try to get something with exterior grade glue. Good luck, and keep us posted. Happy New Year!
...and to hear what you're doing. If you don't use marine plywood, try to get something with exterior grade glue. Good luck, and keep us posted. Happy New Year!
Good to hear from you again...
...and to hear what you're doing. If you don't use marine plywood, try to get something with exterior grade glue. Good luck, and keep us posted. Happy New Year!
...and to hear what you're doing. If you don't use marine plywood, try to get something with exterior grade glue. Good luck, and keep us posted. Happy New Year!
Hi Patrick...
...first I admire what you are doing. I am doing the same to an old Greyhound Scenicruiser bus, I am converting it to a motor home. I have been told to go ahead and spend the money on the marine grade plywood for it and the Oday 22 I am fixing up. The reason is this...the marine grade has no 'voids' or air pockets that water can get into...and the glue is a better grade that regular plywood. For what it's worth! Jack
...first I admire what you are doing. I am doing the same to an old Greyhound Scenicruiser bus, I am converting it to a motor home. I have been told to go ahead and spend the money on the marine grade plywood for it and the Oday 22 I am fixing up. The reason is this...the marine grade has no 'voids' or air pockets that water can get into...and the glue is a better grade that regular plywood. For what it's worth! Jack
Hi Patrick...
...first I admire what you are doing. I am doing the same to an old Greyhound Scenicruiser bus, I am converting it to a motor home. I have been told to go ahead and spend the money on the marine grade plywood for it and the Oday 22 I am fixing up. The reason is this...the marine grade has no 'voids' or air pockets that water can get into...and the glue is a better grade that regular plywood. For what it's worth! Jack
...first I admire what you are doing. I am doing the same to an old Greyhound Scenicruiser bus, I am converting it to a motor home. I have been told to go ahead and spend the money on the marine grade plywood for it and the Oday 22 I am fixing up. The reason is this...the marine grade has no 'voids' or air pockets that water can get into...and the glue is a better grade that regular plywood. For what it's worth! Jack
With the plywood be more concerned about the wood species
than the grade. All exterior grade plywood is made with waterproof adhesives. However plywood made with southern pine will rot more quickly than if it were made with Douglas fir. If you plan to paint the bulkhead then surface veneer is not important but if you will finish bright then you will spend a bit more for nice looking face veneer and marine plywood. Also both sides of marine plywood are grade "A" so that both sides are just as nice.
than the grade. All exterior grade plywood is made with waterproof adhesives. However plywood made with southern pine will rot more quickly than if it were made with Douglas fir. If you plan to paint the bulkhead then surface veneer is not important but if you will finish bright then you will spend a bit more for nice looking face veneer and marine plywood. Also both sides of marine plywood are grade "A" so that both sides are just as nice.
With the plywood be more concerned about the wood species
than the grade. All exterior grade plywood is made with waterproof adhesives. However plywood made with southern pine will rot more quickly than if it were made with Douglas fir. If you plan to paint the bulkhead then surface veneer is not important but if you will finish bright then you will spend a bit more for nice looking face veneer and marine plywood. Also both sides of marine plywood are grade "A" so that both sides are just as nice.
than the grade. All exterior grade plywood is made with waterproof adhesives. However plywood made with southern pine will rot more quickly than if it were made with Douglas fir. If you plan to paint the bulkhead then surface veneer is not important but if you will finish bright then you will spend a bit more for nice looking face veneer and marine plywood. Also both sides of marine plywood are grade "A" so that both sides are just as nice.
There is a reason....
Actually, there are lots of reasons that marine plywood costs more. Some of the main reasons were already mentioned like voids, quality of plys and species of plies. Strength and ability to hold screws and nails could be and probably willl be major issues. You had better give careful consideration as to what wood you put where. Also, ship carpentry, especially on smaller boats like pleasure craft are in no way related to home carpentry except for the fact they use wood. You should be very familiar with cabinet making skills and then read, read, read about boat building and repairing.I would hate to see you spend time and money on something that may come back to haunt you in just a few years. Also keep in mind that DIY book authors arent necessarily experts. Generally,no one edits for technical correctness. Some DIY books are obvious that the author never did it himself. Some of them just write DIY books for a living. Kinda like writing book reports on other books. Sensationalism sells books, just like "eat anything you want" and still lose weight. IMHO Tony B
Actually, there are lots of reasons that marine plywood costs more. Some of the main reasons were already mentioned like voids, quality of plys and species of plies. Strength and ability to hold screws and nails could be and probably willl be major issues. You had better give careful consideration as to what wood you put where. Also, ship carpentry, especially on smaller boats like pleasure craft are in no way related to home carpentry except for the fact they use wood. You should be very familiar with cabinet making skills and then read, read, read about boat building and repairing.I would hate to see you spend time and money on something that may come back to haunt you in just a few years. Also keep in mind that DIY book authors arent necessarily experts. Generally,no one edits for technical correctness. Some DIY books are obvious that the author never did it himself. Some of them just write DIY books for a living. Kinda like writing book reports on other books. Sensationalism sells books, just like "eat anything you want" and still lose weight. IMHO Tony B
There is a reason....
Actually, there are lots of reasons that marine plywood costs more. Some of the main reasons were already mentioned like voids, quality of plys and species of plies. Strength and ability to hold screws and nails could be and probably willl be major issues. You had better give careful consideration as to what wood you put where. Also, ship carpentry, especially on smaller boats like pleasure craft are in no way related to home carpentry except for the fact they use wood. You should be very familiar with cabinet making skills and then read, read, read about boat building and repairing.I would hate to see you spend time and money on something that may come back to haunt you in just a few years. Also keep in mind that DIY book authors arent necessarily experts. Generally,no one edits for technical correctness. Some DIY books are obvious that the author never did it himself. Some of them just write DIY books for a living. Kinda like writing book reports on other books. Sensationalism sells books, just like "eat anything you want" and still lose weight. IMHO Tony B
Actually, there are lots of reasons that marine plywood costs more. Some of the main reasons were already mentioned like voids, quality of plys and species of plies. Strength and ability to hold screws and nails could be and probably willl be major issues. You had better give careful consideration as to what wood you put where. Also, ship carpentry, especially on smaller boats like pleasure craft are in no way related to home carpentry except for the fact they use wood. You should be very familiar with cabinet making skills and then read, read, read about boat building and repairing.I would hate to see you spend time and money on something that may come back to haunt you in just a few years. Also keep in mind that DIY book authors arent necessarily experts. Generally,no one edits for technical correctness. Some DIY books are obvious that the author never did it himself. Some of them just write DIY books for a living. Kinda like writing book reports on other books. Sensationalism sells books, just like "eat anything you want" and still lose weight. IMHO Tony B
In my earlier posts I mentioned several books on
yacht joinery. These were written by the men that actually did the work. Don Casey writes many books and has a fine reputation but I don't believe that he qualifies to hold the light for Nicholson or Bingham or Gardener or Chapelle.
yacht joinery. These were written by the men that actually did the work. Don Casey writes many books and has a fine reputation but I don't believe that he qualifies to hold the light for Nicholson or Bingham or Gardener or Chapelle.
In my earlier posts I mentioned several books on
yacht joinery. These were written by the men that actually did the work. Don Casey writes many books and has a fine reputation but I don't believe that he qualifies to hold the light for Nicholson or Bingham or Gardener or Chapelle.
yacht joinery. These were written by the men that actually did the work. Don Casey writes many books and has a fine reputation but I don't believe that he qualifies to hold the light for Nicholson or Bingham or Gardener or Chapelle.
Avoid silicon when you can.
The big downside is that silicon oil migrates out of the plastimer body and when used extensively becomes virtually impossible to remove it all when prepping for painting. This oil creates all kinds of problems with marine finishes (and many non-marine finishes as well). On the performance side, it has poor adhesive qualities when compared to adhesive caulks, so it tends to fail sooner as a sealant on anything subjected to stress or flexing (about 90% of all sealed items on a sailboat). So, it should be considered as nothing more than a self-molding gasket. Some plastics react adversely to urethane, so you may have to use silicon caulk for certain ports and instruments. Other than that, a lot of us who have slaved over old boat restorations have learned to just keep it off the boat.
The big downside is that silicon oil migrates out of the plastimer body and when used extensively becomes virtually impossible to remove it all when prepping for painting. This oil creates all kinds of problems with marine finishes (and many non-marine finishes as well). On the performance side, it has poor adhesive qualities when compared to adhesive caulks, so it tends to fail sooner as a sealant on anything subjected to stress or flexing (about 90% of all sealed items on a sailboat). So, it should be considered as nothing more than a self-molding gasket. Some plastics react adversely to urethane, so you may have to use silicon caulk for certain ports and instruments. Other than that, a lot of us who have slaved over old boat restorations have learned to just keep it off the boat.
Avoid silicon when you can.
The big downside is that silicon oil migrates out of the plastimer body and when used extensively becomes virtually impossible to remove it all when prepping for painting. This oil creates all kinds of problems with marine finishes (and many non-marine finishes as well). On the performance side, it has poor adhesive qualities when compared to adhesive caulks, so it tends to fail sooner as a sealant on anything subjected to stress or flexing (about 90% of all sealed items on a sailboat). So, it should be considered as nothing more than a self-molding gasket. Some plastics react adversely to urethane, so you may have to use silicon caulk for certain ports and instruments. Other than that, a lot of us who have slaved over old boat restorations have learned to just keep it off the boat.
The big downside is that silicon oil migrates out of the plastimer body and when used extensively becomes virtually impossible to remove it all when prepping for painting. This oil creates all kinds of problems with marine finishes (and many non-marine finishes as well). On the performance side, it has poor adhesive qualities when compared to adhesive caulks, so it tends to fail sooner as a sealant on anything subjected to stress or flexing (about 90% of all sealed items on a sailboat). So, it should be considered as nothing more than a self-molding gasket. Some plastics react adversely to urethane, so you may have to use silicon caulk for certain ports and instruments. Other than that, a lot of us who have slaved over old boat restorations have learned to just keep it off the boat.
THANKS FOR THE UPDATE PATRICK
Happy New Year to you and everybody on this site. I wish more sailing for everyone in 2008! Lance
Happy New Year to you and everybody on this site. I wish more sailing for everyone in 2008! Lance
THANKS FOR THE UPDATE PATRICK
Happy New Year to you and everybody on this site. I wish more sailing for everyone in 2008! Lance
Happy New Year to you and everybody on this site. I wish more sailing for everyone in 2008! Lance
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