Does anyone still have their yankee? Do you use it? Isn't the yankee and staysail about the same as a genoa?
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Yankee/Staysail
I have the original sails and they perform very well. The boat was designed with them in mind, and she behaves like the lady she is under them. Visibility is great with this arrangement, and adjusting trim couldn't be easier.
I have the original sails and they perform very well. The boat was designed with them in mind, and she behaves like the lady she is under them. Visibility is great with this arrangement, and adjusting trim couldn't be easier.
Yankee
We have the high cut Yankee as well, and it is a sweetheart to tack...Just backwind it a bit, and wham, she's through...We have just put staset-x lite on for sheets for light winds...What an improvment that has made...The sheets don't drag it down now...
We have the high cut Yankee as well, and it is a sweetheart to tack...Just backwind it a bit, and wham, she's through...We have just put staset-x lite on for sheets for light winds...What an improvment that has made...The sheets don't drag it down now...
Love my Yankee
I find that I rarely use my staysail together with my yankee. I either use one or the other (I don't know why). But if they are used together, don't forget the extra "slot" effect. Bob Miller Gusty Getaway
I find that I rarely use my staysail together with my yankee. I either use one or the other (I don't know why). But if they are used together, don't forget the extra "slot" effect. Bob Miller Gusty Getaway
Dr. Livingston
John: Place a free ad in the HOW Gear wanted section for your Yankee sail. It will stay there for a month, maybe some will see it.
John: Place a free ad in the HOW Gear wanted section for your Yankee sail. It will stay there for a month, maybe some will see it.
I'll catch #*$! for this. . .
but I have a brand new Yankee from Lee Sails. Yes Steve, one of those dreaded offshore(Hong Kong) companies. It was half the price of my North quote(I have a new North main). And it is oversized, considered a 130 because of its dimensions, but still tacks well past the mid-stay. Sunday we were making 6 knots easily in less than 10 knots of breeze. You should see the workmanship in this sail. And I got a guaranteed fabric, rated second to what North would have used, and I cannot remember the brand. I price shopped with everyone and the closest were still off by 30% and those were also offshore. Can't part with my old yankee, need a backup for "out there".
but I have a brand new Yankee from Lee Sails. Yes Steve, one of those dreaded offshore(Hong Kong) companies. It was half the price of my North quote(I have a new North main). And it is oversized, considered a 130 because of its dimensions, but still tacks well past the mid-stay. Sunday we were making 6 knots easily in less than 10 knots of breeze. You should see the workmanship in this sail. And I got a guaranteed fabric, rated second to what North would have used, and I cannot remember the brand. I price shopped with everyone and the closest were still off by 30% and those were also offshore. Can't part with my old yankee, need a backup for "out there".
What are the dimensions?
Hey this is great! I really appreciate the feedback, now another question. What are the dimensions of the original yankee? (luff,leech,foot) What are the dims of your 130%?
Hey this is great! I really appreciate the feedback, now another question. What are the dimensions of the original yankee? (luff,leech,foot) What are the dims of your 130%?
Yankee dimensions:
Here are the before and after dimensions John: luff , foot, leech 45' x 17' x 34'7”, 261sqft, LP=11.6' 45' x 18' x 36'3", 312sqft, LP=13.9’ And did you see the one for sale in "Gear Here"? Might be worth a call to Dan for $700., might be a yankee.
Here are the before and after dimensions John: luff , foot, leech 45' x 17' x 34'7”, 261sqft, LP=11.6' 45' x 18' x 36'3", 312sqft, LP=13.9’ And did you see the one for sale in "Gear Here"? Might be worth a call to Dan for $700., might be a yankee.
Love the Yankee
In reading earlier posts I noticed that JC III mentioned these boats were designed for the cutter rig, and perform best when sailed as cutters. A major advatnage of trhe Yankee is the great visibility gained. My 37C has two high-cut Yankees on board, the original that is used for light winds, and a heavier cut made for San Francisco Bay where 25 knots is considered a normal July day. The sunbrella cover on both was a bit worn and I had one restitched in San Diego ($40) and one is being done now. Both tack easily, and I am still learning how to trim the jib and staysail properly for maximum performance. So far I've found that partially reefing the roller furled Yankee is not very effective. I seem to do better by rolling it in and going on staysail/main or staysail and reefed main. That maintains speed without overpowering. Sanders SV Good News
In reading earlier posts I noticed that JC III mentioned these boats were designed for the cutter rig, and perform best when sailed as cutters. A major advatnage of trhe Yankee is the great visibility gained. My 37C has two high-cut Yankees on board, the original that is used for light winds, and a heavier cut made for San Francisco Bay where 25 knots is considered a normal July day. The sunbrella cover on both was a bit worn and I had one restitched in San Diego ($40) and one is being done now. Both tack easily, and I am still learning how to trim the jib and staysail properly for maximum performance. So far I've found that partially reefing the roller furled Yankee is not very effective. I seem to do better by rolling it in and going on staysail/main or staysail and reefed main. That maintains speed without overpowering. Sanders SV Good News
Hey Ed. LP for a 130%
I might have asked this before but it is my understanding that the LP for a 100% jib is equal to the J dimension of the boat. does this only apply to a sloop rig boat? I am considering the replacement of my jib (jankee) also and making my club footed jib removeable with one of thoes lever type stay attachments. Most of my sailing is in a small area and the jib gets beat up tacking it back and forth thru the slot. will want to keep it for off shore work. anyway the boat came with a 150% genoa that is ENORMOUS, but as of yet not had a chance to use it,and have not measured it either. what i would like to do is install a 120% all around 8oz jib(yankee) on the furler reefable to about 90% that is high cut but.... my understanding is that the LP dimension should be around 20.4 feet....give me some feedback....anyone?????....i considered the 130 listed on the for sale page but not sure of the dimensions chet
I might have asked this before but it is my understanding that the LP for a 100% jib is equal to the J dimension of the boat. does this only apply to a sloop rig boat? I am considering the replacement of my jib (jankee) also and making my club footed jib removeable with one of thoes lever type stay attachments. Most of my sailing is in a small area and the jib gets beat up tacking it back and forth thru the slot. will want to keep it for off shore work. anyway the boat came with a 150% genoa that is ENORMOUS, but as of yet not had a chance to use it,and have not measured it either. what i would like to do is install a 120% all around 8oz jib(yankee) on the furler reefable to about 90% that is high cut but.... my understanding is that the LP dimension should be around 20.4 feet....give me some feedback....anyone?????....i considered the 130 listed on the for sale page but not sure of the dimensions chet
Lets clear up some of this confusion
Lets clear up some of this confusion. First, when referring to a sail as a 100% 130% etc. that number is referring to the percentage of the of the measurement from the base of the headstay to the base of the mast. The J measurement. Since on a H37c, this is 17' a 100% sail for a H37C would have a LP of 17' a 110 a LP of 18.7 feet and so on.The orignal Yankee on a 37C is quite small and has a very high clew. This is what defines it as a Yankee. Now getting to actually sail sizes that work well. Mostly it depends on what conditiond you sail in. The orignal sails Yankee and Staysail work very well especially in higher wind conditions. 20 knots or more in particular. However in lighter air it is not as efficient as a sloop rig either upwind or downwind. Reaching or running, the cutter rig does very well, Many people have altered their sailplan to allow them to use a overlapping jib( genoa) on their 37C. The best all around sail seems to be in the 105 to 110% range with a leech length of around 39 to 40'. This keeps the clew about 4' above the lifelines, insures good visability and is more efficient than the yankee. This size will also tack through the slot between tha staysail well. However, with this sail completely unfurled, the staysail loses its effectiveness except when reaching. On my own boat, I have removed the club boom and made the staysail stay removable when I am not offshore. When using the staysail, I now fly it loose footed and with my 105 partially furled I end up with almost the exact same combination as the orignal yankee and staysail. This allows for more flexability for different conditions.I did purchase a 130 for those particularly light air months but have found I dont want to change tha sails. Guess I am just lazy. I hope this helps. All of the combinations I have talked about. I have tried on my own boat. But they are for the most part my opinion and everyone has their own. Dan Sheehan
Lets clear up some of this confusion. First, when referring to a sail as a 100% 130% etc. that number is referring to the percentage of the of the measurement from the base of the headstay to the base of the mast. The J measurement. Since on a H37c, this is 17' a 100% sail for a H37C would have a LP of 17' a 110 a LP of 18.7 feet and so on.The orignal Yankee on a 37C is quite small and has a very high clew. This is what defines it as a Yankee. Now getting to actually sail sizes that work well. Mostly it depends on what conditiond you sail in. The orignal sails Yankee and Staysail work very well especially in higher wind conditions. 20 knots or more in particular. However in lighter air it is not as efficient as a sloop rig either upwind or downwind. Reaching or running, the cutter rig does very well, Many people have altered their sailplan to allow them to use a overlapping jib( genoa) on their 37C. The best all around sail seems to be in the 105 to 110% range with a leech length of around 39 to 40'. This keeps the clew about 4' above the lifelines, insures good visability and is more efficient than the yankee. This size will also tack through the slot between tha staysail well. However, with this sail completely unfurled, the staysail loses its effectiveness except when reaching. On my own boat, I have removed the club boom and made the staysail stay removable when I am not offshore. When using the staysail, I now fly it loose footed and with my 105 partially furled I end up with almost the exact same combination as the orignal yankee and staysail. This allows for more flexability for different conditions.I did purchase a 130 for those particularly light air months but have found I dont want to change tha sails. Guess I am just lazy. I hope this helps. All of the combinations I have talked about. I have tried on my own boat. But they are for the most part my opinion and everyone has their own. Dan Sheehan
Percentage
By definition, the "size" of the headsail is specified in terms of 100*LP/J. If it's 100 or less it's a jib, if it's greater than 100 it's a genoa. The question of whether the headsail will foul on the shrouds or mast (or inner forestay) during a tack is dependent not only on the size, but also on the cut of the sail. A 100 regular cut jib (clew near the deck) will clear the mast, but not necessarily the shrouds -- it depends on where the shrouds are. For a yankee of the same "size", the point on the luff where the clew is perpendicular is quite a bit higher up. Since the luff angles inward along the forestay, the clew is further aft than on the regular jib and the yankee is actually MORE likely to foul on the shrouds. (Draw some pictures...) If your goal is to never foul the shrouds, you'll actually need a yankee that's less than 100. Best thing is simply hook a tape measure to your jib halyard (along with a downhaul). Pull the end of the tape measure up to where you want the LP line to be. Measure the distance to the shrouds when the tape measure is perpendicular to the forestay. Add/subtract as desired based on your willingness to have the sail hit the shrouds during tacks.
By definition, the "size" of the headsail is specified in terms of 100*LP/J. If it's 100 or less it's a jib, if it's greater than 100 it's a genoa. The question of whether the headsail will foul on the shrouds or mast (or inner forestay) during a tack is dependent not only on the size, but also on the cut of the sail. A 100 regular cut jib (clew near the deck) will clear the mast, but not necessarily the shrouds -- it depends on where the shrouds are. For a yankee of the same "size", the point on the luff where the clew is perpendicular is quite a bit higher up. Since the luff angles inward along the forestay, the clew is further aft than on the regular jib and the yankee is actually MORE likely to foul on the shrouds. (Draw some pictures...) If your goal is to never foul the shrouds, you'll actually need a yankee that's less than 100. Best thing is simply hook a tape measure to your jib halyard (along with a downhaul). Pull the end of the tape measure up to where you want the LP line to be. Measure the distance to the shrouds when the tape measure is perpendicular to the forestay. Add/subtract as desired based on your willingness to have the sail hit the shrouds during tacks.
Still don't think we . . . .
have this right. Dan's definition of "LP" is correct for a sloop but I do not think that it works for a cutter. I think the formula has to consider the 'J' dimension as relative to the mid-stay, not the mast. There was an article, I think in CW, written by the female owner of a West Coast sail loft. In her article was the best definition I have seen of how to calculate "percentage". And I think she included the formula for a cutter. What I know for sure is that my new yankee has 40 additional square feet of sail and I need a pretty good breeze to get it around the mid-stay.
have this right. Dan's definition of "LP" is correct for a sloop but I do not think that it works for a cutter. I think the formula has to consider the 'J' dimension as relative to the mid-stay, not the mast. There was an article, I think in CW, written by the female owner of a West Coast sail loft. In her article was the best definition I have seen of how to calculate "percentage". And I think she included the formula for a cutter. What I know for sure is that my new yankee has 40 additional square feet of sail and I need a pretty good breeze to get it around the mid-stay.
Hmmm
How could the % overlap size be dependent on the midstay? There are are too many different configurations of inner stays to make that reasonable. If I have a boat whos J is 12' and I have a a sail with an LP of 12', that's 100, isn't it? Just because I add another stay inside the mast doesn't mean the sail size changes. What if I add a baby stay? Or a double headstay? Also, I don't think it matters which stay you mount it on. If you had a staysail with an LP of 12' it would still be a 100 even though there would be a large overlap with the mast because it was positioned further aft. I could put my storm jib on the headstay, midstay or baby stay and it's still the same size. I looked up the definition for percent overlap on a number of different PHRF sites. They all say (essentially) that it's 100*LP/J. If you have trouble tacking because of internal stays, it's up to you to factor that into your sail selection criteria! A 135 genoa is more difficult for you than it is for me, but it's still a 135!
How could the % overlap size be dependent on the midstay? There are are too many different configurations of inner stays to make that reasonable. If I have a boat whos J is 12' and I have a a sail with an LP of 12', that's 100, isn't it? Just because I add another stay inside the mast doesn't mean the sail size changes. What if I add a baby stay? Or a double headstay? Also, I don't think it matters which stay you mount it on. If you had a staysail with an LP of 12' it would still be a 100 even though there would be a large overlap with the mast because it was positioned further aft. I could put my storm jib on the headstay, midstay or baby stay and it's still the same size. I looked up the definition for percent overlap on a number of different PHRF sites. They all say (essentially) that it's 100*LP/J. If you have trouble tacking because of internal stays, it's up to you to factor that into your sail selection criteria! A 135 genoa is more difficult for you than it is for me, but it's still a 135!
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