H37C Stanchions

[Richard McDonald]

Just finished repairing my H37C Stanchions, pulled them last week for repair and re-bedding as some were leaking, others were bent. Needed to weld 5 out of eight with my mig welder, there were some cracks in the previous welds that could be seen where the tubes were welded to the attachment bracket. Glad I pulled them since these cracks can only be seen from the under side of the bracket. They are now much stronger than original and I just need to remove some splatter and polish them now.I was surprised with the minimal amount of sealant discovered when I removed the stanchions and they came right off without any king of pulling, once the screws were removed. What have other H37C owners used to re-bed the stanchions: 3M 4200, 3M 101, Boatlife Life-Calk or Life Seal or ...?

 

[Ed Schenck]

No help, only questions.

I have only ever removed one for repair. It was accessible through the vanity cabinet I think. But many seem to be INaccesible. The one just forward of the starboard cockpit locker comes to mind. How were you able to remove them all?I wonder if the stanchions changed from year to year. On my '79 two bolts go through the hull joint next to the toerail. The inside two bolts go through a pad of some material and then through the side deck. These pads under the stanchion base are deteriorating. I was wondering if you or anyone has delt with that.Let us know what you decide to use for a sealant. What about the toerails, pulpit, and pushpit? I don't think there is any way you could do the pulpit without cutting out the anchor locker.Today I cleaned and polished the stanchions for the first time in the ten years that I have owned her. Big difference being on salt water!

 

[Richard McDonald]

Ed,

All of the stanchions were accessible:2 from the V-berth4 in the main cabin: 2 starboard and 1 port through cabinets, 1 port over the electrical panel.The last 2 aft, 1 on port in the aft cabin and the 1 on starboard can be access by removing 2 nuts from the galley cabinet and 2 nuts from the starboard lazerette.It was really easy, took about 1 hour to remove all of them with the Admiral on deck holding the screwdriver (not the drink, that came later). It will definitely take a few hours to get them back on.My stanchions are mounted like yours(our serial numbers are consecutive), the spacers are somewhat deteriorating but still re-usable, I am not sure of what there made of.Toe-rail looks good and I have tightened the screws I can reach. The Pushpit needs to come off next, I have to re-weld a few brackets. I have not yet look at how to pull it. The Pullpit is fine, but I will eventually get to the bow section when I rework the anchor locker next year.

 

[sandpiper10471]

Stress cracks

I have found many cracks on my 37C just below several of my stancions on the vertical surface as well as where the molded toerail curves around and meets the deck. Pushing on the stanchion flexed the bulwark considerably and unacceptably. Grinding out the cracks led to many hollows and delaminated sections deep in the glass. I will post photos on the forum soon of the repairs. I am also replacing an 8 ft. section of deck which indicated a very soft spot just by the galley portlight. The moisture carried aft past the primary winch. Now to find the leak: window? grabrail? sprayhood?

 

[Seattle Scott]

Richard, on the Pushpit

You will need to get yourself down into the starboard locker for one nut and remove the engin inst. panel for another, rest of the nuts on the transom are pretty easy. Probably takes an hour. I had stern seats added, so needed ot deliver the rail to the shop.

 

[Sanders]

Starboard, or the cheap equivelant

Ed and others: I replaced/repaired only one stanchion and it was a doozy to get out. Finally was able to get it out with the admiral above, me below, and both yelling and sweating.Anyway, the deteriorated pad material is apparently an early version of starboard. I traced a pattern and used a piece of cutting board, same depth and much cheaper. It seems okay, but can't speak to longevity.Because of modified cabinets in the boat, and extra bulkhead tabs, the bolts under are very difficult to work with.I need to rebed them all, but hestitate to even start that project.Sandersp.s. Ed, where are you now?

 

[Ed Schenck]

More from Ed on H37C stanchion removal.

Thanks to Richard and Sanders I now have a clue. I still refuse to face the task however. With the boat in NC and me in Ohio when I do get to visit I want to sail, not work. And I am almost always by myself. I will have to learn to ask for help I suppose.I did finally sail her a week ago, stopped at the boat on the way home from Florida. Sailed solo on the Neuse in 20+. Love that Yanmar, started right up after sitting since October. Now where did I put my oil extractor?But I will rebed those stanchions and I really should replace the lifelines. And retighten the toerail bolts while I am at it. Has anyone had success with doubling up on say every third or fourth bolt with a lock nut? Has to be some way to keep those things tight. Actually I get very little wet from the toerails.Any of you thinking about a new boat and doing away with all this work?