Is it just the H37C that has what looks like a plastic spacer under the stanchion(picture). Anyone find a good substitute? It appears to be 1/4" in thickness. Actually in pretty good shape after thirty-two years.
H37C stanchion spacer.
- Thread starter Ed Schenck
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Ed:
I would assume that the material was placed under the base so the stanchion set at the same angle. The bases on your stanchions are a little different because of the lip on deck.
I do not know what plastics shops are in your area, but Tap Plastics has some similar material that can be used.
I would assume that the material was placed under the base so the stanchion set at the same angle. The bases on your stanchions are a little different because of the lip on deck.
I do not know what plastics shops are in your area, but Tap Plastics has some similar material that can be used.
Interesting. Memory tells me I had these on the H33. I have had one stanchion off my H37C and do not recall that plastic shim. Could be Hunter changed the base design for the 1981 model. Or perhaps just some of the stanchions have the shim. Or it could be my memory is gone!!!!! Will revisit this when I take more stanchions off for core repair.
Spacers Maybe Also For Galvanic Isolation?
I'm currently at 6700 ft, spending my week skiing near Lake Tahoe and enjoying four+ feet of new snow courtesy of a major Sierra snow storm coming down from the Gulf of Alaska. I expect that you guys from the upper Midwest won't be impressed, but I've had to dig my car out three times in three days. Pictures of the before/after third dig-out attached.
Instead of the doing the apres ski scene, I'm monitoring the Cherubini forum. Hey, the sailboat is only 6700 vertical feet away so nerver far from my attention.
On my 1980 H36, I wish that Hunter had used the spacers. I didn't know that this was a feature. Instead, the SS stanchion bases were mounted directly on the anodized surface of the factory new toe rail. This probably worked OK for a while until the anodized toe rail surface corroded through. Then the familiar SS vs. Aluminum galvanic reaction took hold. Literally, where the stanchions are mounted, only half the thickness of the toe rail remained when I bought my boat. For repair I have filled the damaged area with thickened West Systems epoxy and I also put down a few layers of vinyl electrical tape to assure there will be no more galvanic reaction.
Anyway, maybe this why Hunter added the plastic spacers? My take is that anything UV and salt water resistant should work. If you are looking for suitable replacement material, what comes to mind is go to the roof drainage down-spout section of your local hardware store. You are sure to find some PVC fittings that have flat segments large enough. Buy a few and just cut to size. These fittings are designed to last decades in the sun for your house. Should be OK to last on a boat for many years as well.
I'm currently at 6700 ft, spending my week skiing near Lake Tahoe and enjoying four+ feet of new snow courtesy of a major Sierra snow storm coming down from the Gulf of Alaska. I expect that you guys from the upper Midwest won't be impressed, but I've had to dig my car out three times in three days. Pictures of the before/after third dig-out attached.
Instead of the doing the apres ski scene, I'm monitoring the Cherubini forum. Hey, the sailboat is only 6700 vertical feet away so nerver far from my attention.
On my 1980 H36, I wish that Hunter had used the spacers. I didn't know that this was a feature. Instead, the SS stanchion bases were mounted directly on the anodized surface of the factory new toe rail. This probably worked OK for a while until the anodized toe rail surface corroded through. Then the familiar SS vs. Aluminum galvanic reaction took hold. Literally, where the stanchions are mounted, only half the thickness of the toe rail remained when I bought my boat. For repair I have filled the damaged area with thickened West Systems epoxy and I also put down a few layers of vinyl electrical tape to assure there will be no more galvanic reaction.
Anyway, maybe this why Hunter added the plastic spacers? My take is that anything UV and salt water resistant should work. If you are looking for suitable replacement material, what comes to mind is go to the roof drainage down-spout section of your local hardware store. You are sure to find some PVC fittings that have flat segments large enough. Buy a few and just cut to size. These fittings are designed to last decades in the sun for your house. Should be OK to last on a boat for many years as well.
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Rardi - so jealous. Here in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, we have had two day so of rain and a sloppy ski hill.
I suspect the plastic pieces are a fill. Half of the stanchion base sits on the toerail and corrodes it in salt water. The other half sits on the deck which is of course a little lower in altitude. (Vertical 3/8") The plastic shim effectively brings the deck up to the same level.
I am thinking that on my boat, the stanchion base is bolted to the vertical section of the toerail and then to the fiberglass deck itself without any shims. Will need to look for some photos to post.
I suspect the plastic pieces are a fill. Half of the stanchion base sits on the toerail and corrodes it in salt water. The other half sits on the deck which is of course a little lower in altitude. (Vertical 3/8") The plastic shim effectively brings the deck up to the same level.
I am thinking that on my boat, the stanchion base is bolted to the vertical section of the toerail and then to the fiberglass deck itself without any shims. Will need to look for some photos to post.
I think all the H37Cs were the same so far as the hull to deck joint. What might have happened is a change to the base of the stanchion. I have seen stanchions where the base was contoured to fit over the toerail and onto the deck lip. In the attached picture you can see how my '79 is mounted. And I had none of that reddish stain the years the boat was in Lake Erie(on the turnbuckle).
We don't get snow like that around here, too far south of the lake. Impressive!
We don't get snow like that around here, too far south of the lake. Impressive!
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Sandpiper/Ed:
From Ed's pic, the stanchion base and attachment is definitely different than mine. Next time I'm at my boat I'll try to remember to photo and then post.
Back to the 37's, is it possible that Hunter used different stanchion design and attachment over the model years? I ask because when looking at a Cherubini H37 a couple of years ago located at a nearby marina, I think I am recalling that the stanchion design and fitting was the same as my 1980 H36.
regards,
rardi
From Ed's pic, the stanchion base and attachment is definitely different than mine. Next time I'm at my boat I'll try to remember to photo and then post.
Back to the 37's, is it possible that Hunter used different stanchion design and attachment over the model years? I ask because when looking at a Cherubini H37 a couple of years ago located at a nearby marina, I think I am recalling that the stanchion design and fitting was the same as my 1980 H36.
regards,
rardi
Ed,
I replaced all of Midnight Sun's stanchions about fifteen years ago. I replaced all the spacers (they were actually delrin) with fiberglass. The fiberglass doesn't compress when you tighten the stanchion bolts. All I did was get a pair of cookie sheets from Sam's Club, (they are heavy and ridgid) wax the crap out of the bottom one, spray gel coat with a disposible Prevail bottle, lay up the the fiberglass to the thickness you want, (1/4') wax the bottom of the other pan, spray the bottom with gel coat, and put the second pan on top. I weighted the top pan with a couple of bricks. Let it sit overnight so you don't pop it out "green". This will keep it from warping. You end up with a fiberglass plate that you can can cut the spacers out of with a skill saw. Sand the cut edges and spray more gelcoat.
This was a fairly simple thing to do and it eliminated leaks from the stanchion bolts because they don't flex anymore. The leak elimination was a side benefit. I did this to make the stanchions more ridged. Hope this helps.
I replaced all of Midnight Sun's stanchions about fifteen years ago. I replaced all the spacers (they were actually delrin) with fiberglass. The fiberglass doesn't compress when you tighten the stanchion bolts. All I did was get a pair of cookie sheets from Sam's Club, (they are heavy and ridgid) wax the crap out of the bottom one, spray gel coat with a disposible Prevail bottle, lay up the the fiberglass to the thickness you want, (1/4') wax the bottom of the other pan, spray the bottom with gel coat, and put the second pan on top. I weighted the top pan with a couple of bricks. Let it sit overnight so you don't pop it out "green". This will keep it from warping. You end up with a fiberglass plate that you can can cut the spacers out of with a skill saw. Sand the cut edges and spray more gelcoat.
This was a fairly simple thing to do and it eliminated leaks from the stanchion bolts because they don't flex anymore. The leak elimination was a side benefit. I did this to make the stanchions more ridged. Hope this helps.
That would help Blaise IF I had the time. I think I will try starboard first. Or maybe just cut it out of one of those white cutting boards. Dropped the stanchion off at the welding shop this a.m.
Have a quote from Seco South for the lifelines but I am uncertain about the size(diameter). I asked for 3/8" as measured with my calipers. They quoted 5/16" which makes me think the right size studs cannot be fitted. I had planned to send mine to them anyway. The wire size would be 3/16" instead of 1/4" so there is both a strength issue and looseness in the stanchion holes.
Have a quote from Seco South for the lifelines but I am uncertain about the size(diameter). I asked for 3/8" as measured with my calipers. They quoted 5/16" which makes me think the right size studs cannot be fitted. I had planned to send mine to them anyway. The wire size would be 3/16" instead of 1/4" so there is both a strength issue and looseness in the stanchion holes.
I met Archangel, and he made his of stainless to eliminate the cracking of the spacers. After reading a repair book from Casey, he recommended making a form on the deck to build a fiberglass base to that height to prevent deck splash from seeping into the bolt holes.
That would be way too much work for a septuagenarian, building a fiberglass base at each of xx stanchions. XX because I don't even know how many stanchions we have!
Thanks for the offer Jose. I sent you an e-mail.
Thanks for the offer Jose. I sent you an e-mail.
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Hi Ed:
From your many posts, I've observed that you have interest in Cherubini H37 design variation along the production cycle; and also differences between the various sized Cherubini's.
So -- and also partly for the purpose of benchmarking myself on the state of my memory function -- I did a walk-about today to the marina up the channel where I recalled the location of a Hunter Cherubini 37. Yes, it was still in the place I thought!
Per my post last week made from snowed-in Lake Tahoe, I recollected that this particular 37 had stanchions the same type as my 1980 H36. A couple of pictures of/from the Cherubini H37 are attached. From the HIN on the transom, it was manufactured in 1983.
Confirmed: the stanchion type is the same as my boat. I have passed the memory test this time anyway.
Rather than needing the spacers, the stanchion base on this 37 has the downward bend to make the transition from the toe-rail elevation to the deck FRP. This boat looked to have the same galvanic corrosion issues as my boat between the stanchion SS and the toe-rail SS.
Just another example of that Hunter varied between fittings and designs over the production cycle.
rardi
From your many posts, I've observed that you have interest in Cherubini H37 design variation along the production cycle; and also differences between the various sized Cherubini's.
So -- and also partly for the purpose of benchmarking myself on the state of my memory function -- I did a walk-about today to the marina up the channel where I recalled the location of a Hunter Cherubini 37. Yes, it was still in the place I thought!
Per my post last week made from snowed-in Lake Tahoe, I recollected that this particular 37 had stanchions the same type as my 1980 H36. A couple of pictures of/from the Cherubini H37 are attached. From the HIN on the transom, it was manufactured in 1983.
Confirmed: the stanchion type is the same as my boat. I have passed the memory test this time anyway.
Rather than needing the spacers, the stanchion base on this 37 has the downward bend to make the transition from the toe-rail elevation to the deck FRP. This boat looked to have the same galvanic corrosion issues as my boat between the stanchion SS and the toe-rail SS.
Just another example of that Hunter varied between fittings and designs over the production cycle.
rardi
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I had seen that style Rardi, just never on an H37. I like it because it only requires two holes, the other two bolts being to the toerail. And no need for a spacer.
Ed - Here are a couple of photos of my stanchions. Must have been what was available at production time.
Mark
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Mark - I do believe these are same as on my 1981 37C. Perhaps this is something that could go into the evolutions thread.
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