I was asked about last week's mast unstepping. So here is the detail. I removed all cotter pins/rings and loosened all shrouds/stays before going to the crane. Tied mid-stay and running backstays to mast. Had lots of pieces of line for tying off the rest. Removed large bolts, one at step and one at partners. Removed wires after making a diagram. Then taped them all together covering the ends. Then motored over to crane. All they had to do was knock out the pins and guide the mast up through the table and cabin trunk. One dock worker in salon, two on deck, and the driver. Once on the rack I removed the windex and VHF antenna, tied up the shrouds/stays every five feet, pulled the halyards inside the mast, covered the halyard coils and winches, and covered the ends. My plan over the winter is to check the rigging very closely, add a spinnaker block and halyard, add a topping lift halyard, install the lazyjack mounts, and wire a windspeed/direction sensor. I'll also touch up a few spots with spray paint and lube the winches. Anything else anyone can think of while she's horizontal? I can't climb it nor afford to pay someone else to go up.
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more thoughts
Ed, This is an excellent time to upgrade the wiring, add that more powerful anchor light, a tri-color light, and deck lights. If you go up a size or two on the wiring your lights will be brighter with the same electrical consumption. Remember to count all the lights that can be on at once when you size the ground. You can also split out the deck lights if you have more than one. Consider adding seperate wires to each, then you can select one, two or three, instead of all or none. Consider a new coax for your vhf. Going to the best grade coax will increase your vhf range. I think you plan to go cruising, so this is going to be important to you. A bright anchor light and a tricolor light will also be a good addition if you're out cruising. On my 37 there are two unused sheeves at the top of the mast. You might consider adding two spare halyards, one in front, one in back. Since you can't go up the mast, it will be even more important to you if you ever lose one. (It happens!) You might consider something I've planned to do. There is always water that will come down the inside of the mast when it rains. I'd planned to put a block just below the bolt at the deck to keep the water out. Since nothing runs inside the mast below the deck, this seems like a practical thing to do. If you try it, let me know how it works! Good luck, Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
Ed, This is an excellent time to upgrade the wiring, add that more powerful anchor light, a tri-color light, and deck lights. If you go up a size or two on the wiring your lights will be brighter with the same electrical consumption. Remember to count all the lights that can be on at once when you size the ground. You can also split out the deck lights if you have more than one. Consider adding seperate wires to each, then you can select one, two or three, instead of all or none. Consider a new coax for your vhf. Going to the best grade coax will increase your vhf range. I think you plan to go cruising, so this is going to be important to you. A bright anchor light and a tricolor light will also be a good addition if you're out cruising. On my 37 there are two unused sheeves at the top of the mast. You might consider adding two spare halyards, one in front, one in back. Since you can't go up the mast, it will be even more important to you if you ever lose one. (It happens!) You might consider something I've planned to do. There is always water that will come down the inside of the mast when it rains. I'd planned to put a block just below the bolt at the deck to keep the water out. Since nothing runs inside the mast below the deck, this seems like a practical thing to do. If you try it, let me know how it works! Good luck, Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
Even more thoughts...
Ed, You and I have talked this but I'll post for others that may be contemplating the mast re-wireing task. As Gene has suggested, new lights and wiring is almost a necessity for cruising with the latest lighting regulations. As a recent veteran of this project here is what I've found and done on my "81" 37C mast. The wiring from the factory is completely undersize and after 20 years, severely degraded. I added a Tri-color on the masthead, new VHF antenna, RG-8 coax, annemometer and direction from Nexus and a new steaming, foredeck light on the mast near the spreaders. I went with all Aqua-Signal products to keep all the bulbs the same throughout the boats running light and anchor systems except for the foredeck floodlamp. I used new anchor brand tinned wire and calculated 14 GA. as minnimum so I upgraded to 12 GA just to satisfy the engineer in me. My mast was down and I hoped to pull the old stuff out and chase the new stuff in. Not the case!Hunter has tie-wraped all the wiring and riveted the tie-wraps to the mast channel. I had to remove the sail track to do the job properly, install the new wiring and secure it so it doesn't move and chafe inside the track. What I did next I strongly suggest to all who undertake this task. Run one or two chase lines outside the wire bundle in the track so you can pull new wire in the future if need be or in an emergency. Secure this at the mast head and step so it's always available. I used parachute cord which is strong, soft enough not to chafe the existing wire bundle and synthetic so it's not affected by moisture. Keep it out of the sun at the masthead by securing inside the sheave oppenings out of the way of the halyards. Question for Gene if you read this... did you cut holes in your mast for the extra halyard exits and if so where did you locate them? Thanks, Tom
Ed, You and I have talked this but I'll post for others that may be contemplating the mast re-wireing task. As Gene has suggested, new lights and wiring is almost a necessity for cruising with the latest lighting regulations. As a recent veteran of this project here is what I've found and done on my "81" 37C mast. The wiring from the factory is completely undersize and after 20 years, severely degraded. I added a Tri-color on the masthead, new VHF antenna, RG-8 coax, annemometer and direction from Nexus and a new steaming, foredeck light on the mast near the spreaders. I went with all Aqua-Signal products to keep all the bulbs the same throughout the boats running light and anchor systems except for the foredeck floodlamp. I used new anchor brand tinned wire and calculated 14 GA. as minnimum so I upgraded to 12 GA just to satisfy the engineer in me. My mast was down and I hoped to pull the old stuff out and chase the new stuff in. Not the case!Hunter has tie-wraped all the wiring and riveted the tie-wraps to the mast channel. I had to remove the sail track to do the job properly, install the new wiring and secure it so it doesn't move and chafe inside the track. What I did next I strongly suggest to all who undertake this task. Run one or two chase lines outside the wire bundle in the track so you can pull new wire in the future if need be or in an emergency. Secure this at the mast head and step so it's always available. I used parachute cord which is strong, soft enough not to chafe the existing wire bundle and synthetic so it's not affected by moisture. Keep it out of the sun at the masthead by securing inside the sheave oppenings out of the way of the halyards. Question for Gene if you read this... did you cut holes in your mast for the extra halyard exits and if so where did you locate them? Thanks, Tom
Gentlemen, thanks. These. . .
replies are keepers, gotta' go get them off the printer.
There goes the 2002 boat budget!
replies are keepers, gotta' go get them off the printer.
There goes the 2002 boat budget!Wax and lights
Hi, Ed. Of course, if a light was out, you would already have mentioned it. Cleaning, then waxing is good for protection, and (a little) aerodynamically. David Lady Lillie
Hi, Ed. Of course, if a light was out, you would already have mentioned it. Cleaning, then waxing is good for protection, and (a little) aerodynamically. David Lady Lillie
This project keeps getting bigger and bigger...
Thanks to all for the mast ideas. In addition to all these good ideas, I intend to touch up the paint and find out what is rapping on the inside of the mast when the boat rocks at anchor. Gene, I like your water stop idea, but on my mast, the wiring goes clear to the bottom of the mast and comes out in the bilge. If I get bored, I may raise the boom a couple of inches to keep it from destroying the top of my bimini.
Thanks to all for the mast ideas. In addition to all these good ideas, I intend to touch up the paint and find out what is rapping on the inside of the mast when the boat rocks at anchor. Gene, I like your water stop idea, but on my mast, the wiring goes clear to the bottom of the mast and comes out in the bilge. If I get bored, I may raise the boom a couple of inches to keep it from destroying the top of my bimini.
answers and questions
>Question for Gene if you read this... >did you cut holes in your mast for the >extra halyard exits and if so where >did you locate them? Tom, I have extra sheeves, one front and one rear, as I recall, but no exits. I'll have to cut those, but it should be an easy project. A drill and file should do it. >Gene, I like your water stop idea, but >on my mast, the wiring goes clear to >the bottom of the mast and comes out >in the bilge. Ed, Maybe all of our masts aren't the same, but my wiring runs in a track behind the sail slug slides. From the boom down, it's covered with just a flat bar. The wires aren't inside the mast itself, they're in that little channel. On mine, that would have to also be sealed at the deck, but a bit of silicon at that point should do it. However, from other comments, maybe some are inside the mast. The comment about a messenger line wouldn't work on mine. After I added the extra wiring, I had trouble getting the parts slid back in. I'm sure the wires won't move!
>Question for Gene if you read this... >did you cut holes in your mast for the >extra halyard exits and if so where >did you locate them? Tom, I have extra sheeves, one front and one rear, as I recall, but no exits. I'll have to cut those, but it should be an easy project. A drill and file should do it. >Gene, I like your water stop idea, but >on my mast, the wiring goes clear to >the bottom of the mast and comes out >in the bilge. Ed, Maybe all of our masts aren't the same, but my wiring runs in a track behind the sail slug slides. From the boom down, it's covered with just a flat bar. The wires aren't inside the mast itself, they're in that little channel. On mine, that would have to also be sealed at the deck, but a bit of silicon at that point should do it. However, from other comments, maybe some are inside the mast. The comment about a messenger line wouldn't work on mine. After I added the extra wiring, I had trouble getting the parts slid back in. I'm sure the wires won't move!
Same Mast...
Gene, I have the exact same configuration as yours. Flat bar in the sail track from the boom down. Mine is actually loose and leaks on the outside of the mast down the seams. I've tried to seal this but to no avail. A block at the deck with silicone would probably do it if you could seal the entire track with the wiring inside. A drain hole above the block would probably be a good idea as well to let the water out. I epoxied the partners where any raw wood was exposed so I'll just live with the leak, it rolls down into the bilge through the bilge cover and doesn't wet anything else. I also had a tight fit with my wiring in the track, but I tie wraped it to one side and had just enough room for a messenger line on the opposite corner. After talking to some riggers they recommended a strain relief at the top of the mast to relieve the weight of the wire bundle from the attach points at the mast head. If yours is that tight you obviously haven't had any problems but I have seen one where the wiring was relaced, left loose and eventually had to come out from chafe just in the channel. It was an "84" 37C and the mast was the identical Kenyon spar as all the ones I've seen. The only exeption was for welded on spreader attachments instead of the rivited brackets we have. I think that was a good upgrade on the later models as I've had to repair a spreader that became loose and ultimately bent the bracket from excessive movement under heavy load. I removed the brackets, reinforced the spreader attach points by welding in additional metal, replaced the brackets on the mast with drilled and tapped holes and 5/16" SS hex head bolts in place of the 1/4" rivets that where there from the factory. I then drilled a hole through the spreader attach point and bracket at the mast and secured with a 3/8" bolt and locknut to stabilize the assembly. Much stronger than before! I think the new mast configuration came in around "82" or "83" so if your boats older than that and have been around high salt and humidity for a long time you may want to check your spreaders and attach brackets.
Gene, I have the exact same configuration as yours. Flat bar in the sail track from the boom down. Mine is actually loose and leaks on the outside of the mast down the seams. I've tried to seal this but to no avail. A block at the deck with silicone would probably do it if you could seal the entire track with the wiring inside. A drain hole above the block would probably be a good idea as well to let the water out. I epoxied the partners where any raw wood was exposed so I'll just live with the leak, it rolls down into the bilge through the bilge cover and doesn't wet anything else. I also had a tight fit with my wiring in the track, but I tie wraped it to one side and had just enough room for a messenger line on the opposite corner. After talking to some riggers they recommended a strain relief at the top of the mast to relieve the weight of the wire bundle from the attach points at the mast head. If yours is that tight you obviously haven't had any problems but I have seen one where the wiring was relaced, left loose and eventually had to come out from chafe just in the channel. It was an "84" 37C and the mast was the identical Kenyon spar as all the ones I've seen. The only exeption was for welded on spreader attachments instead of the rivited brackets we have. I think that was a good upgrade on the later models as I've had to repair a spreader that became loose and ultimately bent the bracket from excessive movement under heavy load. I removed the brackets, reinforced the spreader attach points by welding in additional metal, replaced the brackets on the mast with drilled and tapped holes and 5/16" SS hex head bolts in place of the 1/4" rivets that where there from the factory. I then drilled a hole through the spreader attach point and bracket at the mast and secured with a 3/8" bolt and locknut to stabilize the assembly. Much stronger than before! I think the new mast configuration came in around "82" or "83" so if your boats older than that and have been around high salt and humidity for a long time you may want to check your spreaders and attach brackets.
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