H34 windlass installation

Charlie98117

Charlie98117

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Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
Claude L.-Auger said:
Hello Charlie,
Saw your post and decided to attach the pdf I had created if it can help you with the installation. The reason I did not want the chain and rode line to drop in the bottom of the hull are twofold: 1) right or wrong, I did not want to have that chain rubbing against the hull ! And 2) Water and some muck do find their way in the anchor locker when retrieving the anchor. I did not want that to find it's way everywhere in the hull.
Click to expand
Hi Claude, thanks for the input. From your experience does the space below the locker (hull cavity) drain to a bilge? Mine seems watertight, always has a bit of captured water below the drains. Also, I was curious if you enlarged or changed the drain? My boat has a small 1/2" drain on each side of the hull cavity but from your photos it appeared you had just one on starboard that looked larger than 1/2". I'd definitely like to discuss further so I'll send you a pm.
 
Claude L.-Auger

Claude L.-Auger

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Dec 14, 2003
1,401
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Charlie98117 said:
Hi Claude, thanks for the input. From your experience does the space below the locker (hull cavity) drain to a bilge? Mine seems watertight, always has a bit of captured water below the drains. Also, I was curious if you enlarged or changed the drain? My boat has a small 1/2" drain on each side of the hull cavity but from your photos it appeared you had just one on starboard that looked larger than 1/2". I'd definitely like to discuss further so I'll send you a pm.
Click to expand
Hi again,
I think the space below the locker is dry. It was totally dry when I cut the fiberglass in 07 to do the project and I did not see any signs of water having ever entered there or leaked on the 2 collared ends of the drain hose. And I wanted to keep it that way ! I don't remember the size of the through-hull on starboard size. I'll have look in my computer and see if I can eyeball something to jiggle my memory. As for tak8ng a look it will have to wait until Spring. The boat is under tarp in Montreal while I enjoy winter in Florida.
I'll wait for your pm and give you a shout.
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Claude, that's an excellent article on the windlass installation. My Beneteau is a bit different, but, FWIW.... I'd have put a second anchor locker drain, but it looks pretty waterproff on your locker. For the up-down switch at the helm, I picked up 12 volts already there, so I only needed two conductors to the control switch. The skipper would probably have other things to do if the windlass quit, so I put the breaker on the OTSIDE of the cabint, where it SHOULD be able to be easier to find.
 
Claude L.-Auger

Claude L.-Auger

.
Dec 14, 2003
1,401
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Hi Ron and thanks for the nice comment. My locker is indeed waterproof and that single drain does the job perfectly 99% of the time. Every now and then when anchored, I pick up whatever debris might have found its way in there and using the wash-down pump I clean the locker and ensure that the drain hose is clear and working correctly. As to the 3-wire cable, it is needed on that model because it goes to the solenoid switch that activates the up & down. I do not have a dedicated battery, so heavy gauge cables go directly from the batteries main bank to the solenoid, going through the breaker of course.
 
Charlie98117

Charlie98117

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Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
I thought I'd put up an epilogue for this thread. It took me a long time to get around to it and then to complete it but the project is done and I thank everyone for their input, a lot of which was incorporated into the final solution . I decided to go with a welded rather than bolted frame and it is attached to the locker walls with through bolts and a backing plate. I've put together a pdf and will drop it here for posterity.
 
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