What are you using in your shower to drain water out on your H34??? Bilge pump/sump pump or ? Have trouble keeping a bilge pump working. Have to replace it over and over. Need help
Thanks Bub
Thanks Bub
H34 shower pump/bilge
- Thread starter betzhunter
- Start date
Sorry Bub
I don't use the shower much, just jump into the lake. There is a small bilge pump but there is water always left after the clean up. Never had to replace it yet but that being said it will probably quit soon.
I don't use the shower much, just jump into the lake. There is a small bilge pump but there is water always left after the clean up. Never had to replace it yet but that being said it will probably quit soon.
I have this little Rule pump with integral float switch. It has worked fine for quite some time. I also installed a switch above the slider to choose between automatic mode and manual.
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Bub...
I have a small Rule 800 GPH bilge pump (that appears to be a replacement for whatever may have been there) that is connected thru a float switch in the shower sump to the power feed to the freshwater pump. It pumps out on the starboard side near the holding tank vent. See pix below...
I have a small Rule 800 GPH bilge pump (that appears to be a replacement for whatever may have been there) that is connected thru a float switch in the shower sump to the power feed to the freshwater pump. It pumps out on the starboard side near the holding tank vent. See pix below...
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H-34 Shower Pan Pump
Hey, Bub.. I have the same one as Dan.. It was original to the boat; we don't use it much.. No check valve in the line so a good bit of water comes back when the pump shuts down. I had one problem with it years ago.. There was a bad/corroded connection for that pump in the bilge.. pump would run but not make enough pressure to push to the outlet .. Fixed connection and all has been well
Pump is a little Rule 800 on a float switch. I found it interesting that the factory has it connected to the pressure water circuit.. it will not run unless the water pressure circuit is on.
Hey, Bub.. I have the same one as Dan.. It was original to the boat; we don't use it much.. No check valve in the line so a good bit of water comes back when the pump shuts down. I had one problem with it years ago.. There was a bad/corroded connection for that pump in the bilge.. pump would run but not make enough pressure to push to the outlet .. Fixed connection and all has been well
Pump is a little Rule 800 on a float switch. I found it interesting that the factory has it connected to the pressure water circuit.. it will not run unless the water pressure circuit is on.
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If you need to replace pumps, get a gulper. No filter needed. It will pump golf balls over board. I replaced both of my itt pumps, not because the were broken but because I was always having to glean the filter. I have no idea why anyone would think that a filter on a waste line is an acceptable solution.
Check valves are never recommended for bilge pumps. They dramatically reduce flow, can clog, can trap water creating increased head that the bulge pump may have difficulty overcoming
Just wondering about the check valve as my bilge pump once it pump out and shuts off water flows back in to the bilge and it starts all over again. Is my bilge suppose to hold the water coming back down the hose or ?? Is my bilge bad??
Bub
Bub
My boat still has the original check valve in the bilge discharge line to stop backflow from the long hose run.. the backflow is about equal to the bilge capacity! The only way I know of to eliminate the check valve would be to install a positive displacement bilge pump like a rubber impeller one or a diaphragm pump (which has internal check valves) . I have sailed on a Tartan 37 that had one of these as a bilge pump. It was mounted remotely because the motor is not submersible. http://www.jmsonline.net/vane-pump-non-reversible-12v.htm?gclid=CMa9zeGjicECFZDm7AodtTAAkA
Would be fine for shower sump if mounted in the holding tank space so that the suction line is not too long. It might be interesting to use something like this as a test
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-marine-utility-pump-9576.html
In both cases of these rubber impeller pumps, it would be good to use a relay to switch the pump to keep from overloading the float switch..
Would be fine for shower sump if mounted in the holding tank space so that the suction line is not too long. It might be interesting to use something like this as a test
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-marine-utility-pump-9576.html
In both cases of these rubber impeller pumps, it would be good to use a relay to switch the pump to keep from overloading the float switch..
I have the original check valve on my shower sump. Periodically I have to pull it off the hose and exercise it by sticking a pencil in the inlet end.
Good point, Allan.. My AC condensate drains to bilge so it gets exercised often. I have had only one problem with it over the years when the boat electrician (me) let a small bit of wire insulation fall into the bilge .. it stuck in the valve seat and stuck the valve slightly open. The softness of the insulation "tube" (about 12 ga wire) allowed it to stick in the seat and not clear. I have found that harder stuff like bug parts, grass, dirt.. does not stick in the seats.