Would like to remove my rudder and re- core it. I was wondering if it could be removed with the boat in the cradle given the length of the post. Also what are the steps involved? Wish they had a Chiltons manual for my boat.
H34 rudder removal
- Thread starter a65sailor
- Start date
I went thru this process several years ago. I could not remove the rudder with the boat in the cradle- the cradle is the original shipping cradle from Hunter- there is about 8-10 inches clearance from the bottom of the rudder to the ground. Next option was to dig a hole beneath the rudder- abandoned that when i came to a large piece of concrete sidewalk about 8 inches down. The yard is on land fill. I ended up doing the repair which was to fix a large bulge in the starboard side about 2/3 of the way from the tip. The repair has lasted fine, I drilled two holes in the bottom and let it drain over the winter, fill with caulk in the spring, drill out again in the fall.
Like Richard said you will have to dig a hole under it to remove it or use a lift. If it's full of water it's pretty heavy. It took two of us to move the rudder around once we had it out.
You will have to go into the aft berth and remove the cover that hides all the steering cables from the pedestal. Then remove the bell housing that's attached to the rudder shaft. In the aft lockers in the cockpit there is a collar around the shaft that holds it in place. If I remember correctly it's made of a plastic material. I've attached a photo of the rudder shaft as you will see it at the rear of the aft berth.
You will have to go into the aft berth and remove the cover that hides all the steering cables from the pedestal. Then remove the bell housing that's attached to the rudder shaft. In the aft lockers in the cockpit there is a collar around the shaft that holds it in place. If I remember correctly it's made of a plastic material. I've attached a photo of the rudder shaft as you will see it at the rear of the aft berth.
Attachments
I repaired mine in place.
Cut big holes in the bottom to get the water out and left to dry out for a couple of weeks.
Sanded it down and cut out the cracks with an angle grinder. Took care to sand down the top face which is the worst bit for access. Put grp then body filler in the cracks and sanded down. Applied 2 layers of 2 oz mat leaving it to cure between layers. Then filled with body filler and sanded to bring it back to smooth.
I then appled 3 or 4 coats of west epoxy taking care to go an inch or 2 up the rudder shaft.
Been perfect ever since.
Cut big holes in the bottom to get the water out and left to dry out for a couple of weeks.
Sanded it down and cut out the cracks with an angle grinder. Took care to sand down the top face which is the worst bit for access. Put grp then body filler in the cracks and sanded down. Applied 2 layers of 2 oz mat leaving it to cure between layers. Then filled with body filler and sanded to bring it back to smooth.
I then appled 3 or 4 coats of west epoxy taking care to go an inch or 2 up the rudder shaft.
Been perfect ever since.
I had some delamination and found it easier to repair it in-place rather than digging a big hole to remove it.
While repairing the delamination, I also added 12 layers of thick uni-directional fiberglass on the upper part of the rudder... Some rudder broke at the weld in this section, so it cannot hurt to make things a bit stiffer around it
Also the rudder is made in 2 halfs and apparently joined only by gluing. So I also covered the joint in fiberglass tape all around
While repairing the delamination, I also added 12 layers of thick uni-directional fiberglass on the upper part of the rudder... Some rudder broke at the weld in this section, so it cannot hurt to make things a bit stiffer around it
Also the rudder is made in 2 halfs and apparently joined only by gluing. So I also covered the joint in fiberglass tape all around