i recently replaced our original jib roller reefer with a new Harken roller reefing system. the main difference is that the old roller reefing system was self contained and didn't use the jib halyard. The new system uses the jib halyard and is locked by use of a line clutch. i find that very scary since anyone might accidentally open the clutch by accident (which just happened) and the jib started coming down over board. i would like to install a cleat on the mast or deck. Any suggestions?
H34 Jib Halyard cleat
- Thread starter Mike Oldak
- Start date
Yes, cleat on the mast. I've had mine that way for 25 years. Unless you think or feel that you need to adjust your jib halyard regularly (i.e., all the time) there is simply no need to run it back to the cockpit. I actually adjust the luff of my jib from its tack: when the sail is first unfurled, I tighten it up (I go fwd to do this; I usually unfurl the jib before the wind pipes up). I loosen it before I furl it, or do it later, no problem if it stays tight overnight or two.
Good question!
Good question!
That depends a lot on what skills you have and what tools and materials you have access to. I wanted to put cleats on the mast but I was concerned about the thickness of the mast and its ability to hold a cleat using threaded fasteners. The one cleat that was already on my mast was attached using very long blind rivets but the cleats that I was able to purchase weren't compatible with that strategy and the very long blind rivets are difficult to source.
I recently installed two cleats on my mast so I could cleat off the main halyard (furling main) at the mast and run the topping lift to the cockpit in its place. I did the same for the jib halyard since it furls, too. The attached photo shows the 1/4" thick aluminum backing plate that I made. It is attached to the mast by 1/4" aluminum blind rivets and is drilled/tapped for mounting the cleat.
I bought these cleats, with 5/8" line capacity, on Amazon:
Schaefer Forged Aluminum Cleat
You can find the same one on the West Marine site for several dollars more. Also, West Marine has the 5" and 4" versions in both the standard and the "jamming" style.
Because of having to tension the halyard, the cleat alone is not a good option. The cabin-top halyard winch used in combination with the rope clutch is really the only way to be able to sufficiently tension the halyard without adding a winch on the mast above the cleat. The original EasyLock clutch requires a two step action to release it (pull up the handle then push it down), and it is not where that should happen accidentally. ?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,390
I like the way you addressed the engineering of this modification. Well Done.
I favor the Standard style cleat when working with halyards. You can make a secure bite for a line that you want to stay until you decide to alter it. The "Jamming" style is fine for temporary hold tasks. I have just had to many premature releases of lines when used. Especially the case when using any of the newer modern line materials.
Use a tool that serves the needs of the task as you outfit your boat.
I favor the Standard style cleat when working with halyards. You can make a secure bite for a line that you want to stay until you decide to alter it. The "Jamming" style is fine for temporary hold tasks. I have just had to many premature releases of lines when used. Especially the case when using any of the newer modern line materials.
Use a tool that serves the needs of the task as you outfit your boat.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,390
Respectively, I want to suggest an alternate idea.
If you start your sailing on big boats with lots of winches to access, it may seem that you need mechanical assistance to do everything.
I started on small boats where winches were not always a tool on the boat. If you rely on physical strength, you need to reduce or eliminate the barriers. The greatest hinderance with running rigging on a boat is friction. If you can reduce friction on your sails and halyards, it is entirely within the ability of most fit crew to raise a mainsail using your own body strength on boats upto 36-38 feet. Beyond that size of boat the weight of the sail can become a factor in the hoist.
To do manually hoist the sail you must first ease the sails trim lines: outhaul, vang, any reefs, and the cunningham. Lift the boom using the topping lift till it is above horizontal. Now attach the main halyard, guide the sail on to the luff track and reach upon the halyard, grabbing it and pull down using your body weight to assist in the hoist. (sometimes called Jumping the Halyard). Monitor the sail hoist to assure the sail is not entangled in lazy jacks, or shrouds.
As you raise to the top of the mast there should be a mark to indicate the sail is fully raised. My mast has a black line that indicates the height of the sail headboard when raised. If you are a foot shy, it can be finished by slipping the halyard around the bottom of a cleat, holding the tail in one hand and pulling on the halyard above the cleat like you were pulling on a stretched guitar string. This gives you the added power to fully raise the sail. (Note that if you find this last foot to be an issue, you likely have dirt or gunk in the upper section of your mast. A good shot of water with the hose might assist in cleaning the sail track.)
Once up to the proper height, secure the halyard on a cleat using the proper cleat knot.
Now to set the trim, you need to add tension back in to the sail that you eased before the hoist. The Outhaul, topping lift halyard, cunningham, and vang are all adjusted to trim the main for sailing.
Sure the winches on a 30ft boat can pull a sail up the mast, they can also rip the sail as you fight against the friction or obstruction that is in the way.
Manually you know immediately when there is something amiss with the hoist.
Good sailing.
I can tension either the main or the jib halyard by using the spinnaker halyard which is led to the cockpit where a winch is available. All that is necessary is to temporarily fasten a snatch block to the base of the mast, run the spinnaker halyard through it and then back up the mast where you connect it to the halyard in question above the cleat using a Prusik loop. Once you've tensioned the halyard via the spinnaker halyard, you can freely uncleat and re-cleat the halyard you're wanting to adjust. Then, ease off the spinnaker halyard and it is simple to remove the Prusik loop. Voila!
I used this technique to adjust the topping lift when it was still cleated at the mast rather than being led aft to the cockpit as it is now.
Sure, it is a little more work than if the halyard you're trying to adjust were run to the cockpit but with furlers this is an operation that is not performed very often and it's nice to have the seldom used halyards cleated off and coiled at the mast instead of having to deal with that volume of line in the cockpit.
Adjusting the jib halyard and main halyard tension while underway without leaving the cockpit is the part that I didn't say. I do use those controls .. I remember sweating up halyard tension on my 23 foot boat while underway in waves and when I made a list of stuff I wanted on my next boat, being able to use most controls without leaving the cockpit was on that list.. As that guy said, "Your boat, your rigging." Great if that works for you.
