H34 Compression Post Rennovation - This will be a long one...

Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
Greetings sailors! I thought I'd start this thread today and hope to "end" it by the end of July-2018!! I'll be hauling the boat [bottom, etc done] 7/9 and removing the mast. I'm at Seabrook Marine in New Orleans. They let you work on your boat 24-7 while it's out oft the water - so, I should be able to move quickly...

Let me qualify this by saying: I don't possess many "boat" fixing skills, [fiberglass; diesels; marine batteries; etc...] but have a knack for planning and logistics. I've rebuilt my Porsche 930 from a way worse state than this boat [I'll attach a picture of it, too]. And, was the GC and Architect for my house 2-yrs ago - and never did either of those, either... Just so you know who you're dealing with ;)

On Compression Post: I've already begun the "planning;" "disassembly" and "inspection" process. I'll attach a few photos of some drawings I made up; and some recent pictures of the disassembly and inspection...

In a nutshell: I plan to drill a 2.5" hole in the deck & into the cabin; drop a 2-3/8" Aluminum Pipe with Aluminum Flange welded on top; Screw the flange into the 1/4" aluminum plate sandwiched inside the deck; Then screw the mast step to the flange. In the process, I'll try to run the mast wires along the top/port portion of cabin and avoid the bilge; replace the starboard bulkhead [or, most of it...]; also replace the mast lighting; install a "wired" garmin wind sensor; install an inspection port at base of mast; and ?? whatever else comes my way...

This thread should start moving after 7/9... I want to thank everyone in advance for their input and advice! Shannon

Design:
Compression Post.jpg

Support:
IMG_7882.JPG

Post Removed:
IMG_7889.JPG


I was able to jack the header up about 1/2". Of course, the method was: loosen stays; jack a little; loosen stays; jack a little; and so on... I screwed the 2x8 onto the bottom of the post; screwed the jack to the post; placed a 1/4" circular hole in the top 2x8 so that the jack post fit nicely...

The other [basically completed] projects:
IMG_7270.JPG
 
Mar 20, 2011
599
Hunter 31_83-87 New Orleans
Check out the forum under owner resources and then modifications then select 34 for your hull. There are a few articles in compression post replacement. The one I thought was very detailed was by Claude Auger but don’t see it there anymore. Suggest sending Claude a PM to obtain his info on compression post repairs. Good luck on the fix
 
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Mar 20, 2011
599
Hunter 31_83-87 New Orleans
Also check out the owner mods for the 31 83-87 section for similar compression post repairs.
 
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Manly

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Jan 3, 2018
47
Hunter 31 St. Petersburg
Wow, great info and pictures. I'm in the process of planning for replacing mast wiring on my H31 and just started a thread on that today. One thing I'm a bit confused about is how the wiring runs through the compression post. Is the compression post a square block of wood or some sort of U shape? Do the wires go through the middle of it somehow?

Will be watching with interest. Your H34 is similar to my 1984 H31.
 
Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
All the pictures I've seen thus far show a "notch" being cut into the original wooden post to accommodate the wiring. In many cases, the notch runs from the top of the post to the bottom. And in others, the notch is at the top of the post before the wires start to run horizontal...
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,245
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Manly, here is a picture of the post in the 34. I think the one in the 31 is almost identical.. You can see the mold/rot spot in the top of mine. The wiring goes down that groove and out a notch at the bottom.
P2040779.JPG P2040767.JPG
 
Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
I’ve got the same looking post except for much added rot at the bottom. The top of my post had a small but significant amount of rot.

Question: the bottom of my bulkhead has rotted out near the compression post. It’s a 1/2” plywood. What type of wood is on the salon side? Or for that matter, what type of wood is on the bulkheads? I figure it’s mahogany veneer something??? Thanks
 
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Nov 6, 2006
9,245
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Wood.. I dunno, Shannon.. It is a veneer that is (originally was?) stained with Sea Fin that Phil and the folks on the site have available.. The veneer seems lighter than mahogany..
Since that stuff is inside the settee, ya might be able to scarf a new piece in ..
On my rotted post top, I routed out the rot and cut/shaped an oak plug to go in the hole then epoxied the oak plug into the post top..
 
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Mar 20, 2011
599
Hunter 31_83-87 New Orleans
May be a teak veneer. Houston Hardwoods sells teak veneer and Can ship. Also I have purchased teak n holly veneer over the internet when I redid my cabin sole so this too should be readily available on the internet.
 
Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
May be a teak veneer. Houston Hardwoods sells teak veneer and Can ship. Also I have purchased teak n holly veneer over the internet when I redid my cabin sole so this too should be readily available on the internet.
Ok, thanks will look into Houston Hardwoods & Teak... Thanks
 

Manly

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Jan 3, 2018
47
Hunter 31 St. Petersburg
Thank you Jerry and Kloudie for the pictures. Really helpful!

Mnmpizza, I’m not sure about the wood type of the bulkhead, but mine is rotted a bit at the bottom too.

Your design for the compression post mod is nicely drawn up. However, one thing to think about is this design takes all the compressive loads from the mast and sends it directly down to the fiberglass stringer at the base of the cabin. While this is similar to the original design, you’ll notice the cabin has an arch and in the original design the loads are transferred primarily down through the compression post, but also down the two ends of the arch, ie, the sides of the boat. Your design bypasses the support of the arch entirely and basically makes the mast keel-stepped instead of deck stepped.

This is probably ok, but a couple things to maybe think of: 1) the stringer that the compression post is resting on will now experience greater loads (all the compressive loading of the mast) and may need to be supported, unless it is metal directly underneath but I bet it’s hollow and could perhaps buckle. 2) The aluminum you use should ideally be equal strength to the aluminum of the mast, as it is now basically an extension of the mast.

Like the idea though, these are just some of my thoughts!
 
Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
Manly,
I get your point and have considered it in the design. The plate at the top of the post will be larger than the mast step. It will be drilled with 8 holes on the outer perimeter. I will then match and drill & tap into the 1/.4" aluminum structure sandwiched into the deck. I will also utilize the 4x holes in the mast step to secure into the aluminum in the deck. While I realize this isn't the best situation, it will provide a huge "up-lift" or "hold" on the deck and hopefully be enough to hold the deck up from sagging or settling in big seas...
On the lower stringer: there is a hole on the stringer about 12" to Starboard and it measures over 1" thick... I've spoken the 2x individuals who did this style of repair multiple years ago, and neither have any concerns...
Shannon
 
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Jun 21, 2004
1,907
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Shannon,
Any way you look at it, there are different ways to address the repair. I have 2 concerns (1) you’re changing the original design of the deck arch and lower stringer support compression loads that Manly noted, when there is really no need to do that. (2). You’re making a bigger hole in the deck with future potential for leaks under the mast, that’s going to require pulling the mast to access.
My Hunter 33.5 had the same affliction; the compression post was completely rotted. We did an internal repair with a square aluminum post that had flanges welded to the top & bottom for attachment points beneath the deck and the bottom stringer. Jacked up the deck to install the post. Wood cleats were attached to the post to facilitate wrapping a new teak encasenent around the post, just like the original.
If I had to do it over again, that’s how I would proceed, with one exception. I would glass over the hole under the mast step and reroute the wiring outside & near the bottom of the mast. Run the wires thru the deck using dedicated clamshell type fixtures to seal the wires where they penetrate the deck. If you have a leak in the future, you can address it without pulling the mast.
 
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dakno

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Jun 22, 2009
209
Hunter 41DS new orleans
Who did the exterior renovation on your 930? I also live in New Orleans and need a great paint shop for my 1964 230sl.
 
Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
Welded up and Installed the post today. Fits perfectly. Disclaimer: I changed my method a bit and went with a modded Claude version - basically a 5” wide header.

See attached drawings and installation.

I’m repairing The starboard bulkhead, so will not be trimming the post for another week or so....
D21F8FE8-6F3C-4F80-A626-D5FDA8FAD0A6.jpeg
3DBA1404-202E-4E04-BC7A-0185D80E5737.jpeg
 
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