H34 Automatic Bilge Elec Hookup Location

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Sorry about all these questions but I'm finally able to spend sometime working on the boat and I really appreciate all of you sharing your knowledge.

This is a quick one... Does the Automatic Bilge power come from a dedicated line directly from the battery or somewhere else?

Thanks
Jon
 
May 1, 2011
5,013
Pearson 37 Lusby MD
The bilge pump(s) should have power even when the battery switch is "off", so yes, a dedicated line from the battery. This is how my pumps are wired.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,261
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Does the Automatic Bilge power come from a dedicated line directly from the battery or somewhere else?
And it should also have an in-line fuse in the wiring.

A nice extra is to have a bypass switch (monentary ON) in the circuit so that one can quickly test the wiring to the bilge pump to make sure everything is in working order.
 

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Jan 22, 2008
1,665
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Does the Automatic Bilge power come from a dedicated line directly from the battery or somewhere else?
Jon,

And the answer is yes.:D It is both. Depending on the pump you have, many come with both a brown and a brown with white stripe. I guess those may be the ones with internal float switches which is the case with mine. Either way, power to the float switch comes directly from the battery. On our 34s you would see (if its still there) a brown wire that connects to the common terminal on the back side of the battery selector switch from the engine compartment side. Lift the float switch and the pump comes on even if the battery switch is off. The second wire from the pump or a wire on the other side of the separate float switch (not the same as the one directly to the battery) goes to your DC panel. If you look, and it hasn't been changed, there is a switch (third one up on the left)labeled bilge pump. There is also a fuse (bottom on the right side of the 12 volt portion) labeled automatic bilge pump. The second wire goes to that fuse. Flip the switch and the pump runs even if the float is down. That second wire is back fed with 12v even if the float activates the pump and the manual switch is off allowing the light to come on, so you know what that noise is. Nice.

I bought some 3 conductor (14 gauge) tin plated copper wire at West Marine that worked nicely. One brown, one red and one black in a gray sheath. After crimping in the bilge and waterproofing (either use heat shrink connectors with adhesive or liquid electrical tape) I fished through the holes in the upper bilge area to the engine compartment. I carefully stripped away the sheath and connected the red conductor to the battery switch and pulled the other two up into the DC panel. The old wires were just copper and completely corroded. Time for new. While I was at it I ran a second cable to the shower sump and did something similar with an automatic and manual switch installed next to the shower faucet. You can see the two cables in the bottom of the attached picture.

If you get behind your panel, turn off the battery selector switch and disconnect the shorepower as none of these connections back there are covered and sparks tend to fly.

Allan

Edit: I made a mistake on the terminal to hook the bilge pump to on the battery selector switch. Its to the house bank, or terminal #1, not to the common terminal. That way there is always power to the pump, regardless of the switch position.
 

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Last edited:
Dec 14, 2003
1,431
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
If your 34 is like mine, the bilge pump has direct wiring from the batteries but also and on/off breaker with a witness lamp on the electrical panel. That breaker/switch is only activated if & when I want to turn the pump on manually. Normal situation the pump will be turned on when the float switch in the bilge activates it even if all DC power is turned off at the panel or the main Perko switch.
 

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Wow.. once again I am overwhelmed with everyone's help! In the midst of replacing batteries and switching over to MS's wiring of the 1 Both 2 switch, the bilge pump wasn't working and didn't see any other wires attached to the battery. At that point I did not yet install the Reserve battery which would have been on #2 which used to be the House. Now that #1 is becoming the house, there was no juice to #2 hence the the bilge failure. Thanks for pointing to the Battery Switch for our boat.


Switch the bilge to #1 and now all is well.

This still leaves a potential problem if the Reserve battery is needed. Since the pump is hard wired to #1 and if #1 batteries fail so does the pump... I even noticed that the breaker for the pump on the panel is powered by the same line connected to #1. How could the pump have 2 sources without potentially frying it with 12volts? A relay?

Great job Allan... I think I'll do the same with the shower pump.

Really like RJ test switch.. beats throwing water into the bilge to test.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,665
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Glad to help Jon. One error I made was that the bilge pump isn't on the common terminal, instead as you correctly said, on the terminal to your house bank.

There are no relays. All inputs to the pump regardless to sources are in parallel so even if you activate the panel switch and the float switch at the same time it's still 12 volts.

The solution to a battery failure and no bilge pump--buy a second pump and hook it to #2.
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,431
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
....The solution to a battery failure and no bilge pump--buy a second pump and hook it to #2.
Good idea Allan. Our 34s already have a 2nd pump, i.e. the shower sump pump. While smaller than the main pump it still could serve as a 2nd pump. On my boat it is wired into the fresh water pump electrical breaker. Don't know if it's OEM or PO installation. Never ever having heard it unless using the shower, I only realized it I thought the pump was burned out and bought another one to replace it, only to find out the new one didn't work either :eek: ! Turning on the fresh water pump brings power to the float switch in the shower sump and pump works when water level in the sump is high enough :D. I have been thinking about wiring this pump to the second battery so it becomes useful as a 2nd pump as well besides working for the shower. The sump is built however to avoid draining into the bilge and I do not want to change that so I question the usefulness of this plan. Any ideas without stealing this thread ???
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,665
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Good idea Allan. Our 34s already have a 2nd pump, i.e. the shower sump pump. While smaller than the main pump it still could serve as a 2nd pump. On my boat it is wired into the fresh water pump electrical breaker. Don't know if it's OEM or PO installation. Never ever having heard it unless using the shower, I only realized it I thought the pump was burned out and bought another one to replace it, only to find out the new one didn't work either :eek: ! Turning on the fresh water pump brings power to the float switch in the shower sump and pump works when water level in the sump is high enough :D. I have been thinking about wiring this pump to the second battery so it becomes useful as a 2nd pump as well besides working for the shower. The sump is built however to avoid draining into the bilge and I do not want to change that so I question the usefulness of this plan. Any ideas without stealing this thread ???
With apologies to Jon (but related), Claude, with the rather large capacity house bank anyway, I almost wonder if by the time we need a second pump, we are in a lot of trouble anyway. The second pump would only have the start battery capacity to do its thing in an emergency situation. Considering that my boat is plugged into shore power about 99 44/100% of the time (it seems) I wouldn't deplete capacity anytime soon. Hopefully, someone would see the continuous stream of water and do something. If we are out on the water, I don't think we can get enough pumps or batteries to keep us afloat without somehow finding the source of water and stopping it.

My shower sump is the same way. It was wired to the fresh water breaker and meant to be used only for showers when the water had to be on. As above, I installed an auto/manual/off switch. Its only other function besides pumping during a shower is to facilitate cleaning that sump with fresh water after I have pulled/replaced the speedo paddle wheel that is there. After 30 years, I finally got lazy and just leave it out all the time. I just read the speed off my GPS that is mounted at the helm.

Allan
 

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Steal Away... My thought was to add a second pump off the secondary battery to the main bilge, but set it a bit higher. That way it wouldn't come on unless the either the first pump failed or the ingress was more substantial than the primary could keep up with.
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,431
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Steal Away... My thought was to add a second pump off the secondary battery to the main bilge, but set it a bit higher. That way it wouldn't come on unless the either the first pump failed or the ingress was more substantial than the primary could keep up with.

Thanks Allan. I'm also thinking that if there is enough water coming in then even a 2nd pump won't be enough and one needs to find and block water ingress. I had full reserve of DC power but have had the main pump fail (internal wires corroded). Fortunately that was during my Spring check up while still on the hard. Thanks Jon, for me the idea of the 2nd pump is basically for redundancy in case the main pump failed.
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Bilge pump...

I don't have a second bilge pump (other than in the shower sump) but a PO installed a second float switch on the port side upper sump level for backup to the one in the sump bottom. I've had to replace the lower float unit twice so am comfortable that there is a backup in case of another failure. I use it to test the system by just lifting up on its float to have the pump come on.

Wiring is to the breaker panel as Claude A stated, with a wire to the battery switch back, hooked to be fed from battery #1.