I'm considering installing a windlass on the new H33 we purchased last year. If anyone has done this and could offer their experiences on both the type of windlass they installed and suggestions about the installation I'd be most interested.
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Was it offered...
as an option? If so, I'd call Hunter and ask them about what they would have installed and where, size of wiring, battery requirements, etc. Windlass installation on anything under 35-36' seems to get very problematic.
as an option? If so, I'd call Hunter and ask them about what they would have installed and where, size of wiring, battery requirements, etc. Windlass installation on anything under 35-36' seems to get very problematic.
H33 Windlass
My H33 is a 2004, and they installed a windlass manufactured by Simpson Lawrance (which I assume was bought by Lewmar). The manual says Atlantic Sprint. It uses 5/8" HT chain. Attached is a picture of it. Michael
My H33 is a 2004, and they installed a windlass manufactured by Simpson Lawrance (which I assume was bought by Lewmar). The manual says Atlantic Sprint. It uses 5/8" HT chain. Attached is a picture of it. Michael
H33 windlass
Be Careful! call Hunter and get the exact model number they used. Hunter used a similar windlass for the H356 but it's a special low profile model made for Hunter-you can't just buy it in a store
Be Careful! call Hunter and get the exact model number they used. Hunter used a similar windlass for the H356 but it's a special low profile model made for Hunter-you can't just buy it in a store
Wiring is critical
I agree with Chuck, call Hunter. You might also look at the docs that came with the boat because you might well find that the wiring for the windlass is already installed, but not connected, in the wiring bundle in the boat. It is important to wire it properly with a breaker and cut-out and to have the switches control it though a relay etc. So the standard Hunter installation would obviously have all that implemented. I have the standard windlass - as per Micheal Stacy's post - on my 33. It has two problems. First, you must keep it very clean to ensure that the clutch will properly disengage. Otherwise you will find yourself having to power the anchor DOWN! Fortunatley disassembly of the above-deck parts is easy. Second, the position of the windlass in relation to the anchor locker means that when weighing the anchor chain it almost always jams. This is because the windlass is at the top of a short slope before the chain drops vertically into the locker. There is not enough wieght of chain pulling on the exit from the windlass to keep it straight and clear. I find that I need to have one hand on the deck switch and bend over to use the other hand to pull chain clear of the windlass every ten seconds or so. This is actually a bit dangerous, especially if it is blowing. I wonder if any one has come up with a solution for that one - short of rebuilding the anchor locker and taking up some headroom from the front of the V-berth!
I agree with Chuck, call Hunter. You might also look at the docs that came with the boat because you might well find that the wiring for the windlass is already installed, but not connected, in the wiring bundle in the boat. It is important to wire it properly with a breaker and cut-out and to have the switches control it though a relay etc. So the standard Hunter installation would obviously have all that implemented. I have the standard windlass - as per Micheal Stacy's post - on my 33. It has two problems. First, you must keep it very clean to ensure that the clutch will properly disengage. Otherwise you will find yourself having to power the anchor DOWN! Fortunatley disassembly of the above-deck parts is easy. Second, the position of the windlass in relation to the anchor locker means that when weighing the anchor chain it almost always jams. This is because the windlass is at the top of a short slope before the chain drops vertically into the locker. There is not enough wieght of chain pulling on the exit from the windlass to keep it straight and clear. I find that I need to have one hand on the deck switch and bend over to use the other hand to pull chain clear of the windlass every ten seconds or so. This is actually a bit dangerous, especially if it is blowing. I wonder if any one has come up with a solution for that one - short of rebuilding the anchor locker and taking up some headroom from the front of the V-berth!
Many Thanks
for the responses. I haven't had an opportunity to call Hunter but I appreciate the advice and will contact them. Mike Thanks for the photo, I have a 35lb CQR which I plan to use next year in lieu of the Danforth to make evenings less stressful. This extra weight is what has me thinking about the windlass. Dave, next time down to the boat I'll look if any wiring bundles exist but don't recall seeing any. Again many thanks for your responses.
for the responses. I haven't had an opportunity to call Hunter but I appreciate the advice and will contact them. Mike Thanks for the photo, I have a 35lb CQR which I plan to use next year in lieu of the Danforth to make evenings less stressful. This extra weight is what has me thinking about the windlass. Dave, next time down to the boat I'll look if any wiring bundles exist but don't recall seeing any. Again many thanks for your responses.
33 windlass issues
Mark, I paid Hunter to prewire my 356 for the windlass, and it's an expensive piece of copper-I doubt it's in there, but maybe they learned from my request and standardized the harness. We have the same problem on the 356, the chain forms castles that you have to reach in and knock down. I'm making a trough out of plastic pipe to guide the chain deeper into the well, so hopefully that will work-I'll post in the spring when we get back in the water
Mark, I paid Hunter to prewire my 356 for the windlass, and it's an expensive piece of copper-I doubt it's in there, but maybe they learned from my request and standardized the harness. We have the same problem on the 356, the chain forms castles that you have to reach in and knock down. I'm making a trough out of plastic pipe to guide the chain deeper into the well, so hopefully that will work-I'll post in the spring when we get back in the water
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