In the process of refitting my boat, I have the hull stripped and through hulls removed. I measured the hull thickness as follows: 1. galley sink drain, (about midships) 1/2" 2. Head overboard discharge 5/8" 3. Engine raw water intake 11/16" As far as I can tell, the tabbing between the pan liner and the hull is mostly for the structural benefit of the pan structures, (berth-locker, head, engine mounting pan, rather than to strengthen the hull. The space between the pan and hull is mostly just wide open as I have verified by running a carpenter's tape for long distance up from the bilge. This open space certainly assures good ventilation and drainage of the interior of the hull straight to the bilge with no opportunity to pool even when heeled. I am impressed with the structural design of the boat.
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Reason for post
Sam, the reason I posted this is that I didn't know the hull thickness until I pulled the through hull. Has it been posted before? where? There have been some recent posting about phenomenal thicknesses on 37C. I don't know whether there is that much difference in the two boat's hull layup or not. At least this is the thickness of the 33. I'm sure that with your knowledge base you see postings all the time that are old hat. You'll just have to grin and bear it.....or post a response as you did here. Your postings have certainly helped me in several instances and I hope to do the same.
Sam, the reason I posted this is that I didn't know the hull thickness until I pulled the through hull. Has it been posted before? where? There have been some recent posting about phenomenal thicknesses on 37C. I don't know whether there is that much difference in the two boat's hull layup or not. At least this is the thickness of the 33. I'm sure that with your knowledge base you see postings all the time that are old hat. You'll just have to grin and bear it.....or post a response as you did here. Your postings have certainly helped me in several instances and I hope to do the same.
Sam's pullin' your leg.
We all want to know that every Cherubini is built right. I thank Tom for drilling all those holes in his H37C so I know how solid my own boat is. And now we know the H33 is the same. Sam knew but didn't tell us.
We all want to know that every Cherubini is built right. I thank Tom for drilling all those holes in his H37C so I know how solid my own boat is. And now we know the H33 is the same. Sam knew but didn't tell us.
Just kidding!
I assumed we all knew the 33 was built like a tank. I just removed the two senders (transducer and paddle wheel) for the orriginal S R Mariner guages which went away and was surprised at how thich the hull actually is. I was going to say I hadn't measured but I just went out in the yard in my skivvies and checked. (It's midnight, Sunday and COLD, but having the boat in the yard is great.) Just about 1/2 inch about 2 feet out from the keel at the turn of the bilge. What that means to me is lots of layers of glass cloth in the patches I'll be laying in there. I'm guessing about 15 layers. Terry's other measurements fall in line with what I recall seeing.
I assumed we all knew the 33 was built like a tank. I just removed the two senders (transducer and paddle wheel) for the orriginal S R Mariner guages which went away and was surprised at how thich the hull actually is. I was going to say I hadn't measured but I just went out in the yard in my skivvies and checked. (It's midnight, Sunday and COLD, but having the boat in the yard is great.) Just about 1/2 inch about 2 feet out from the keel at the turn of the bilge. What that means to me is lots of layers of glass cloth in the patches I'll be laying in there. I'm guessing about 15 layers. Terry's other measurements fall in line with what I recall seeing.
"Questions for Sam"
Why did you remove the transducer and paddle wheel? If the Mariner units were faulty, could they not have been repaired or replaced. And could the new units not have used the original transducer and paddle wheel? I have the same problem on my 33 but have not fixed it as yet. Thanks, Joe
Why did you remove the transducer and paddle wheel? If the Mariner units were faulty, could they not have been repaired or replaced. And could the new units not have used the original transducer and paddle wheel? I have the same problem on my 33 but have not fixed it as yet. Thanks, Joe
Knot log problem
Joe, The knot log on my 1981 H33 started acting strange last fall. It would register, but the digital reading was twice what it should be, sometimes going up and down. I contacted Yaesu, the company that bought the Standard Horizon line, and they said it is too old to be repaired. That is when I removed the meter movement and transducer (paddle-wheel). The transducer looked good, so I brought the meter into work and hooked it up to a power supply and square wave generator per the instruction manual. I found that I had an IC (integrated ciruit) that was not working. It is a common type, so replaced it with a new one, and now it reads properly (on instruments). I still have to reinstall it for spring launch, but expect everything will be A-OK. Sure is nice working in the electronics business! Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty http://www.LakeOntarioSailing.com/
Joe, The knot log on my 1981 H33 started acting strange last fall. It would register, but the digital reading was twice what it should be, sometimes going up and down. I contacted Yaesu, the company that bought the Standard Horizon line, and they said it is too old to be repaired. That is when I removed the meter movement and transducer (paddle-wheel). The transducer looked good, so I brought the meter into work and hooked it up to a power supply and square wave generator per the instruction manual. I found that I had an IC (integrated ciruit) that was not working. It is a common type, so replaced it with a new one, and now it reads properly (on instruments). I still have to reinstall it for spring launch, but expect everything will be A-OK. Sure is nice working in the electronics business! Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty http://www.LakeOntarioSailing.com/
Answaer for Joe Gooch
There wer eseveral small reasons for pulling the S R Mariner guages. 1 - Knot meter was eratic due to location of paddle wheel; it would lift out of water when heeled too far, killing the reading. 2 - depth always acted funny - would give readings of 60 feet in 8 feet of water, even withj a new transducer. Never had the patience to play with it because: 3 - they were analog readout, and based on an average depth of 5 feet, I needed a better idea of how soon I would start bumping the bottom. The needles just didn't cut it. That and I already had a set of Standard Horizons ready to go. The complete set of SR Mariners is sitting in my boat shed waiting for a new home. Think it's worth the effort to put them on e-bay?
There wer eseveral small reasons for pulling the S R Mariner guages. 1 - Knot meter was eratic due to location of paddle wheel; it would lift out of water when heeled too far, killing the reading. 2 - depth always acted funny - would give readings of 60 feet in 8 feet of water, even withj a new transducer. Never had the patience to play with it because: 3 - they were analog readout, and based on an average depth of 5 feet, I needed a better idea of how soon I would start bumping the bottom. The needles just didn't cut it. That and I already had a set of Standard Horizons ready to go. The complete set of SR Mariners is sitting in my boat shed waiting for a new home. Think it's worth the effort to put them on e-bay?
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