H33 Headsail mods

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nickc

Hi Glenn,
Great to be able to access your knowlwdge.
I race my 2004 H33 in club events and more often than not beat other production yachts Bavaria, Benetau etc in the 30- 35 foot range except when there is a lot of upwind work particularly with heavy swell or current on the nose. The small headsail just does not develop enough power to either point as high as the competition and/or overcome wave and current conditions. We have to rely on a good reach where we can always tear past them but sometimes the lead is too big! Unfortunately with the H33 rig you cannot fit say a 130 -150 % headsail because it would foul the mast shrouds when trimmed hard for upwind work. As the standard headsail is cut very high, my question is, could the upwind performance be improved by "filling the gap" and fitting a lower cut headsail (more of a decksweeper) and if so, could you sheet it in efficiently, on the same track. I concur with your comment in another post about the effectiveness of reefing the main on this rig (at 20 knots true wind it flies with one reef) Thus my thoughts were if you could get more power with a larger area of headsail then you could counter this by reefing a little earlier and not lose performace.
Any other comments on racing with this rig would be appreciated. NB our new laminated main with even more roach has improved things but not enough!
Second question. The rudder has alway been fairly slack in its bearings but after 4 years it is getting worse and occasionally you can feel a bit of shudder at the wheel. What are the bearing tolerances?
 

ghen

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Mar 15, 2009
104
2 216 St. Augustine
Nickc,

The headsail that comes from the factory is a compromise sail. The cloth is a bit stretchy because it doesn't have the calendering performance oriented Dacron does. That is so it will last longer. That is great for the daysailor and ocean traveller. The clew is higher than bottomed out so vision is not impaiered. It is a little easier to trim as well. To really amp up the headsail for racing, a custom sail should be made. It is a sad fact of racing. It can be dacrom but a stiffer less strechy clth like Polyant or equivelent. You will need to take more care of that to extend it's life. Of course a plastic sail with no stretch and a high modulus fiber yeilds best results. A plastic (mylar/carbon,PBo Kevlar and such) will shrink some with age. Now a sailmaker can measure the rig and build the sail right to the hairy edge of dimension. He can lower the clew height. A sail like that would not be suitable for most owners. When grand prix plastic racing sails are measured for class limits or handicap limits, it will be built and used so it will preshrink to tolerant amounts. It gets into some money but it is significant in performance value.
 

Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
For upwind work in swells you may want to consider cracking off on the sheets and moving the car slightly forward to power through the waves. I also installed an inboard second set of tracks mounted on the cabin top for my #3 decksweeper blade. This allows for smaller sheeting angles and significantly improves pointing ability. The #3 makes for much faster tacking with a corresponding lesser loss of boat speed.
 

ghen

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Mar 15, 2009
104
2 216 St. Augustine
Nick,

I didn't mean to drop your question. The bearing tolerances are different depending on shaft size. I don't have access to that data and I can't remember what it was on the 33. If it is an aquamat metal rudder post, probably .08.
 
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