The 4 lag bolts holding the toilet to the floor have finally pulled out. Does anybody have the experience of replacing these bolts in an H33? I was think of filling with epoxy and re-drilling. Any better ideas? Ken Palmer,S/V Liberty
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It is time to change the head too?
Ken: You may want to use some penetrating epoxy to treat the plywood (assuming that is want is under the area) before you epoxy the holes. This will treat the wood and give you something more to screw into before you re-drill. You may also want to consider replacing the head if it has been there for more than 5-6 years (unless you have a good unit). Otherwise you may be redrill these holes again in the next year or so. I alway refill the holes with some type of sealant/caulking when I replace the lag bolts. This helps keep water from getting into the wood.
Ken: You may want to use some penetrating epoxy to treat the plywood (assuming that is want is under the area) before you epoxy the holes. This will treat the wood and give you something more to screw into before you re-drill. You may also want to consider replacing the head if it has been there for more than 5-6 years (unless you have a good unit). Otherwise you may be redrill these holes again in the next year or so. I alway refill the holes with some type of sealant/caulking when I replace the lag bolts. This helps keep water from getting into the wood.
Fill and redrill, Ken
Epoxy or just a good wood filler. You'll never get a good bite again any other way. Otoh, as Steve suggested, as long as you have to bolt it down again, you might be better off bolting down a new toilet. What make/model is it (the toilet, not the boat), how old is it, how often (if ever) has it been rebuilt, and how well have you kept it lubricated--wait till it squeaks and gets stiff, or prevented that from happening?
Epoxy or just a good wood filler. You'll never get a good bite again any other way. Otoh, as Steve suggested, as long as you have to bolt it down again, you might be better off bolting down a new toilet. What make/model is it (the toilet, not the boat), how old is it, how often (if ever) has it been rebuilt, and how well have you kept it lubricated--wait till it squeaks and gets stiff, or prevented that from happening?
Plywood shelf
Ken, The plywood shelf that the toilet sits on comes out very easily. Why not pull it out and either repair or replace the plywood? It would be cake to do either. Don
Ken, The plywood shelf that the toilet sits on comes out very easily. Why not pull it out and either repair or replace the plywood? It would be cake to do either. Don
Don, I didn't know
I really need to get down to Liberty more often. I will take another look at the flooring under the toilet. I seem to recall that the flooring material was molded, with a shelf a couple inches above the sole of the head. Kind of like the flooring under the galley sink area. I need to see how one accesses the wooden panel under the molded floor (plastic, fiberglass, who knows?). To answer the others, I went out and bought a replacement toilet on the spur of the moment. It was price that drove me, not research. My wife says that I have to be one of the cheapest guys around. Anyway, I bought a Jabsco Manual Marine Toilet. I ended up saving about 40%, being on sale and using a Boat US discount. Afterwards, I caught a few comments here on HOW that really trashed the Jabsco. We shall see. The original toilet worked OK, and it may have been an original on this 1981 H33, I just don't know. The only problem I was having was that if I left the fresh water valve on and went sailing, there was a good possibility the toilet would fill on it's own, and overflow. I know, I know...install a vented loop. I just downloaded installation instructions on the Jabsco from their web site, and the instructions look excellent. Looks like the project for next weekend. Or maybe get in another day of sailing before it gets too cold. Cheers, Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty Rochester, NY
I really need to get down to Liberty more often. I will take another look at the flooring under the toilet. I seem to recall that the flooring material was molded, with a shelf a couple inches above the sole of the head. Kind of like the flooring under the galley sink area. I need to see how one accesses the wooden panel under the molded floor (plastic, fiberglass, who knows?). To answer the others, I went out and bought a replacement toilet on the spur of the moment. It was price that drove me, not research. My wife says that I have to be one of the cheapest guys around. Anyway, I bought a Jabsco Manual Marine Toilet. I ended up saving about 40%, being on sale and using a Boat US discount. Afterwards, I caught a few comments here on HOW that really trashed the Jabsco. We shall see. The original toilet worked OK, and it may have been an original on this 1981 H33, I just don't know. The only problem I was having was that if I left the fresh water valve on and went sailing, there was a good possibility the toilet would fill on it's own, and overflow. I know, I know...install a vented loop. I just downloaded installation instructions on the Jabsco from their web site, and the instructions look excellent. Looks like the project for next weekend. Or maybe get in another day of sailing before it gets too cold. Cheers, Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty Rochester, NY
Sail her Ken.
The head can wait. We of the Northern latitudes have to sail first, work second. I've already had to schedule the haul date with the marina, October 28.
My H37C head used to sit on a shiny f/g shelf, part of the inner liner. My new head, a Raritan Cricket, had a different bolt pattern. I mixed up a little West System to a peanut butter consistency to fill the old holes. Then I cut a piece of oak, shaped the back edge to fit the curve and slant of the hull, and stained/varnished it to match the teak bulkheads. This became the new mounting for the Cricket. Drilled holes through the oak and the f/g shelf and used 1/2" longer lag screws. And yes, add that vented-loop as seen in my picture. About $20. plus some hose.
The head can wait. We of the Northern latitudes have to sail first, work second. I've already had to schedule the haul date with the marina, October 28.
My H37C head used to sit on a shiny f/g shelf, part of the inner liner. My new head, a Raritan Cricket, had a different bolt pattern. I mixed up a little West System to a peanut butter consistency to fill the old holes. Then I cut a piece of oak, shaped the back edge to fit the curve and slant of the hull, and stained/varnished it to match the teak bulkheads. This became the new mounting for the Cricket. Drilled holes through the oak and the f/g shelf and used 1/2" longer lag screws. And yes, add that vented-loop as seen in my picture. About $20. plus some hose.Attachments
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