looking to upgrade the engine in my 1982 h33.the yanmar 2gm does not have enough power to drive the boat against heavy sea,current, high wind.would like to hear from someone who has who has done it.
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Sam Lust
Done that
I put a slightly used Yanmar 3GM30F into my 1983 Hunter 33 last winter in place of the original 2GM. My 2GM was in fine shape and I sold it to a guy in Connecticut who used it to replace a tired 2QM. The 3 cyl fits better than O. J.'s glove. Width is the same, length is essentially one cylinder longer plus about 2/3 of an inch extra in the transmission. Engine mounts end up in slightly different spots but that just requires drilling a few new holes. Fuel cable had to be replaced due to the extra length. Doing the job required disassembling the entire engine box, which I didn't consider a big deal anyhow. The port side panel is in 4 pieces now, 3 of which come out in 1 minute or less to facilitate access to the engine. I lowered the engine into place with the help of a friend who cranked on my home built crane made up of 2 x 4 s and a trailer winch. To me there was nothing particularly difficult involved in doing the swap and I feel it was well worth the effort, and having gotten a nice deal on the 3GM it didn't cost me all that much money I replaced the 2 bladed 14 x 12 prop with a 14 x 13 three blade "Mickey Mouse ear" type. Acceleration was remarkable and there was plenty of power for pulling errant friends off groundings, but I wanted reduced revs at cruising speed or better speed at cruising revs so I had the prop re-pitched up to 14' over this winter. She won't be in the water for a while yet so I can't as yet report on the performance with the re-pitched prop. I'm not sure what else you want to know, but I'm happy to help with anything I can. samlust@monmouth.com
I put a slightly used Yanmar 3GM30F into my 1983 Hunter 33 last winter in place of the original 2GM. My 2GM was in fine shape and I sold it to a guy in Connecticut who used it to replace a tired 2QM. The 3 cyl fits better than O. J.'s glove. Width is the same, length is essentially one cylinder longer plus about 2/3 of an inch extra in the transmission. Engine mounts end up in slightly different spots but that just requires drilling a few new holes. Fuel cable had to be replaced due to the extra length. Doing the job required disassembling the entire engine box, which I didn't consider a big deal anyhow. The port side panel is in 4 pieces now, 3 of which come out in 1 minute or less to facilitate access to the engine. I lowered the engine into place with the help of a friend who cranked on my home built crane made up of 2 x 4 s and a trailer winch. To me there was nothing particularly difficult involved in doing the swap and I feel it was well worth the effort, and having gotten a nice deal on the 3GM it didn't cost me all that much money I replaced the 2 bladed 14 x 12 prop with a 14 x 13 three blade "Mickey Mouse ear" type. Acceleration was remarkable and there was plenty of power for pulling errant friends off groundings, but I wanted reduced revs at cruising speed or better speed at cruising revs so I had the prop re-pitched up to 14' over this winter. She won't be in the water for a while yet so I can't as yet report on the performance with the re-pitched prop. I'm not sure what else you want to know, but I'm happy to help with anything I can. samlust@monmouth.com
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Ed Schenck
Wondering why?
My H37C is an early model with the 2QM20 before they began using the 3QM30. So I also have considered an upgrade. Well until the stock market crashed anyway. But then I looked at a new 3GM at the boat show and it's rated at 22HP. My 2QM is a real 20HP. That's $3500. per hp increase! We get some pretty nasty weather on Lake Erie with big waves and current at the river head. My 2QM pushes my 18000# H37C right through it. It's not fast but in 3-footers it'll make six knots at 2600 rpm. That's with a two-bladed Flex-O-Fold prop. Maybe you have a problem other than horsepower.
My H37C is an early model with the 2QM20 before they began using the 3QM30. So I also have considered an upgrade. Well until the stock market crashed anyway. But then I looked at a new 3GM at the boat show and it's rated at 22HP. My 2QM is a real 20HP. That's $3500. per hp increase! We get some pretty nasty weather on Lake Erie with big waves and current at the river head. My 2QM pushes my 18000# H37C right through it. It's not fast but in 3-footers it'll make six knots at 2600 rpm. That's with a two-bladed Flex-O-Fold prop. Maybe you have a problem other than horsepower.
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Terry Arnold
replacing 2gm- upgrade?
Ed Schenck makes sense. My 2gm with a 13 x13 two blade prop on My 79 H33 with the 2gm yanmar running at 2800 rpm will drive a clean bottom at 6 knots in average conditions. Hull speed is 7 knots. Full power (3600 rpm)on the 2gm properly propped will bring it very close or to hull speed. Thus more power is not going to do much with top speed. If getting the boat to move and/or accelerate quickly in dockside manuevering or heavy sea or wind conditions is your main consideration, I would suggest a good prop specialist, much cheaper than repowering. Certainly a three blade prop will accelerate the boat and move it better than a two blade in sea conditions that tend to stop the boat....at a cost of permanently damaging sailing performance with the extra drag. What the extra power will do is cut down the range of the boat by cutting fuel efficiency. ... Also more likely to bend the strut and/or shaft or twist the engine right off the mounts if that new high quality halyard tail gets in the prop. Also, the extra power will cost you a bundle. Better to spend it on sails and rigging that will drive the boat in heavy wind and sea conditions.
Ed Schenck makes sense. My 2gm with a 13 x13 two blade prop on My 79 H33 with the 2gm yanmar running at 2800 rpm will drive a clean bottom at 6 knots in average conditions. Hull speed is 7 knots. Full power (3600 rpm)on the 2gm properly propped will bring it very close or to hull speed. Thus more power is not going to do much with top speed. If getting the boat to move and/or accelerate quickly in dockside manuevering or heavy sea or wind conditions is your main consideration, I would suggest a good prop specialist, much cheaper than repowering. Certainly a three blade prop will accelerate the boat and move it better than a two blade in sea conditions that tend to stop the boat....at a cost of permanently damaging sailing performance with the extra drag. What the extra power will do is cut down the range of the boat by cutting fuel efficiency. ... Also more likely to bend the strut and/or shaft or twist the engine right off the mounts if that new high quality halyard tail gets in the prop. Also, the extra power will cost you a bundle. Better to spend it on sails and rigging that will drive the boat in heavy wind and sea conditions.
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steven f.
westerbeke 24
My H33 has a Westerbeke 21a (24 hp) in her. I bought it with this engine installed, that was a big selling point for me. I've sailed other's with the smaller, original engine and found they were a bit underpowered for my taste. I've heard that re-proping is a great alternate idea but I have to admit that I like having excess power when I need it. I also have a 3 blade prop (fixed) and I do loose some sailing efficiency but only at lower wind speeds. If the wind is 10-15 I find that 6.5-7.0 knots is not uncommen under sail. As for the Westerbeke engine, I love it. I've not owned a Yanmar so I can't speak about them. My Westerbeke has been very reliable for me. I am also neurotic about doing my preventative maintance on it. One feature I fine fantastic is an electric fuel pump. If I run out of fuel or simply change the filters I just turn the key to the start position and she starts clicking, a few minutes later the air is gone and fuel is in. Not a single nut or injector to bleed, its all automatic. The cost of parts is a bit high but I can't compare apples to apples, are Yanmar parts cheap? The engine is also metric, kinda weird for an American made engine but hey, so are VW Bug's and they run and run and run.... Anyway, I'd vote for a repower and would seriously consider the Westerbeke series. Either way good luck. Oh yeah, I also wrapped my prop big time last year (melted the Cutlas bearing), no strut damage from that catastrophe.
My H33 has a Westerbeke 21a (24 hp) in her. I bought it with this engine installed, that was a big selling point for me. I've sailed other's with the smaller, original engine and found they were a bit underpowered for my taste. I've heard that re-proping is a great alternate idea but I have to admit that I like having excess power when I need it. I also have a 3 blade prop (fixed) and I do loose some sailing efficiency but only at lower wind speeds. If the wind is 10-15 I find that 6.5-7.0 knots is not uncommen under sail. As for the Westerbeke engine, I love it. I've not owned a Yanmar so I can't speak about them. My Westerbeke has been very reliable for me. I am also neurotic about doing my preventative maintance on it. One feature I fine fantastic is an electric fuel pump. If I run out of fuel or simply change the filters I just turn the key to the start position and she starts clicking, a few minutes later the air is gone and fuel is in. Not a single nut or injector to bleed, its all automatic. The cost of parts is a bit high but I can't compare apples to apples, are Yanmar parts cheap? The engine is also metric, kinda weird for an American made engine but hey, so are VW Bug's and they run and run and run.... Anyway, I'd vote for a repower and would seriously consider the Westerbeke series. Either way good luck. Oh yeah, I also wrapped my prop big time last year (melted the Cutlas bearing), no strut damage from that catastrophe.
Steve F:
I believe the Westerberk engine is a Kubota, so it's probably not that wierd. I also think that the newer/larger Yanmars are also self bleeding. Their is nothing wrong with your engine. Just that the Yanmars are more mainstream. No matter what new boat you go aboard (at the recent Sail Expo) they seemed to have Yanmars. Did not look at the newer Catalinas.
I believe the Westerberk engine is a Kubota, so it's probably not that wierd. I also think that the newer/larger Yanmars are also self bleeding. Their is nothing wrong with your engine. Just that the Yanmars are more mainstream. No matter what new boat you go aboard (at the recent Sail Expo) they seemed to have Yanmars. Did not look at the newer Catalinas.
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Pat McCartin
I'd do it
Hey, As some of you know I am the Yanmar, Westerbeke, Universal dealer for the Atlanta area. My home is Lake Lanier with hardly a curent to speark of. I've been on a few boats here and most seem to be under powered. Weather a 27 with a Renault or a 33 with a 2QM15. If you have to fight a current it's better to have to much power than to little. The weight penalty of a 3GM30 is negligable compared to an older engine. Personaly I have a 2QM15 in my 1979 H30, I'm considering a 3 cyl. Just my .02 Pat McCartin 1979 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
Hey, As some of you know I am the Yanmar, Westerbeke, Universal dealer for the Atlanta area. My home is Lake Lanier with hardly a curent to speark of. I've been on a few boats here and most seem to be under powered. Weather a 27 with a Renault or a 33 with a 2QM15. If you have to fight a current it's better to have to much power than to little. The weight penalty of a 3GM30 is negligable compared to an older engine. Personaly I have a 2QM15 in my 1979 H30, I'm considering a 3 cyl. Just my .02 Pat McCartin 1979 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
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