One of the must-do projects on the ever expanding list is to replace my fuel tank. Does anyone know of an off-the-shelf plastic fuel tank that is close to a direct replacement for the original aluminum tank? (I think it's 20 gal on the 33s)
H33 C fuel tank
- Thread starter fiestaMojo
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If you get your measurements you can check out Moeller tanks.
Nothing wrong with a metal tank for fuel either.
Nothing wrong with a metal tank for fuel either.
Thanks Steve. . . I have checked out Moeller, they have a couple that are a close match, one of which would definitely work, I was just wondering if anyone has used or found something else that's a match. . . I'm not against using a metal tank, but the original aluminum tank has to go. . .
Considering your tank has lasted for 30 years, there is no reason that you should not consider another one. You can remove it and take it to a fabricator for a direct replacement. They can also install clean out and any special fitting in case you would be interested in doing something fancy like Maine Sail.
PS: I was born in Quincy at the Quincy General Hospital a couple (actually several) of decades ago. Do you know where 16 Filbert St is?
PS: I was born in Quincy at the Quincy General Hospital a couple (actually several) of decades ago. Do you know where 16 Filbert St is?
I priced a direct replacement for my fuel tank. Over $300. What exactly is wrong with your tank? Mine had no immediate problem but I applied sloshing compound on the inside to eliminate the possibility of pin-holing. My aluminum water tank, made by the same company, did have pinholes. I sloshed it and have had no problems since. Sloshing kit cost about $45-. could do both tanks.
H33C fuel tank
Steve, I don't live in Quincy, keep the boat at Captains Cove Marina in Quincy. I live in Weymouth (next to Quincy if your memory needs jogging); I am familiar with Quincy though, and I'll keep an eye out for Filbert St.
Sam, I can't tell for sure until I get the tank out, but the plywood base looks to be saturated - i think the tank is suspect. I priced a Moeller plastic tank that is just about the same size (19 gal vs 22 gal) for $149 - I'm thinking replacement would easier than sloshing, and only a little more painful. . .
Steve, I don't live in Quincy, keep the boat at Captains Cove Marina in Quincy. I live in Weymouth (next to Quincy if your memory needs jogging); I am familiar with Quincy though, and I'll keep an eye out for Filbert St.
Sam, I can't tell for sure until I get the tank out, but the plywood base looks to be saturated - i think the tank is suspect. I priced a Moeller plastic tank that is just about the same size (19 gal vs 22 gal) for $149 - I'm thinking replacement would easier than sloshing, and only a little more painful. . .
My plywood base looks saturated too, but there was no leak from the tank itself. I did have issues with the vent hose. Not quite tight, fuel in bilge only with full tank which was a rare occurrence. Fuel was leaking out at the vent pipe on starboard tack. I did put a couple of thin strips of plastic under the tank to eliminate direct contact with the wood so moisture can not get trapped underneath.
Fuel Tank Woes
We have two 33' Hunters at my yacht club (Anchor Yacht Club), Bristol, PA. Mine is a 1978 and another member has a 1983.
The owner has done extensive work on his boat as it came from the factory as a "Quest" boat. That is, there was no interior as it was designed to be completed to the owner's spec.
I have concentrated on replacing systems fatigued by age. One of my first changes was to add a cross linked poly tank. I went from a 22 gal (factory original) to a 12 gal tank. The removal was fairly easy but I did have to remove the filler neck as it just would not go through the starboard locker.
I selected the small tank as I wanted the tank opening to line up with the original filler. However, when all issues were factored in I simply had to drill another filler hole in about a foot forward of the original fill.
Take the time to replace the original unpainted plywood support the tank is on. While I had the tank (and platform) out I replaced the through hull with a forespar marelon valve.
For the valve I had to slightly enlarge the existing hole. I went with this set-up as the through hull is 1/2 in and I could not find a company that had a sea-strainer, valve, and through-hull set-up that fit my needs.
I did install a sea strainer from groco upstream of the water pump. I also installed quick release fittings so I can quickly remove the sea strainer for service and use the same quick-connect for winterizing the engine quickly.
Keep in mind how much fuel you use. I go through about 25 gallons of fuel a season (two tanks). A smaller fuel tank means that I have less fuel setting in the tank and no need to "polish" the fuel (and the expensive parts polishing requires). I beleive that filtering the fuel, and using the fuel in the tank, helps to eliminate problems
The company that makes the tank (Moeller) has a dedicated tank "tie-down" that fits molded "indents" in the tank. Simple to install...simple to remove, clean, replace.
The tank does not have the fittings for a fuel return. You can buy the kit to install one in the tank. My 2QM15 returns unused fuel to the fuel filter so I did not need the ($ 54.00) fuel tank return.
Another benefit of the plastic tank is that I can see how much fuel is in my tank, and the condition of the fuel. I like simple systems that do not fail.
Costs:
Thru-hull/Valve: $ 120.00
Sea Strainer: $ 110.00
Tank: $ 130.00
Quick Connects: $ 20.00
Tank tie downs: $ 14.00
Boat no longer smelling like diesel fuel...priceless.
Purchased everything from Defender Marine (where else)
We have two 33' Hunters at my yacht club (Anchor Yacht Club), Bristol, PA. Mine is a 1978 and another member has a 1983.
The owner has done extensive work on his boat as it came from the factory as a "Quest" boat. That is, there was no interior as it was designed to be completed to the owner's spec.
I have concentrated on replacing systems fatigued by age. One of my first changes was to add a cross linked poly tank. I went from a 22 gal (factory original) to a 12 gal tank. The removal was fairly easy but I did have to remove the filler neck as it just would not go through the starboard locker.
I selected the small tank as I wanted the tank opening to line up with the original filler. However, when all issues were factored in I simply had to drill another filler hole in about a foot forward of the original fill.
Take the time to replace the original unpainted plywood support the tank is on. While I had the tank (and platform) out I replaced the through hull with a forespar marelon valve.
For the valve I had to slightly enlarge the existing hole. I went with this set-up as the through hull is 1/2 in and I could not find a company that had a sea-strainer, valve, and through-hull set-up that fit my needs.
I did install a sea strainer from groco upstream of the water pump. I also installed quick release fittings so I can quickly remove the sea strainer for service and use the same quick-connect for winterizing the engine quickly.
Keep in mind how much fuel you use. I go through about 25 gallons of fuel a season (two tanks). A smaller fuel tank means that I have less fuel setting in the tank and no need to "polish" the fuel (and the expensive parts polishing requires). I beleive that filtering the fuel, and using the fuel in the tank, helps to eliminate problems
The company that makes the tank (Moeller) has a dedicated tank "tie-down" that fits molded "indents" in the tank. Simple to install...simple to remove, clean, replace.
The tank does not have the fittings for a fuel return. You can buy the kit to install one in the tank. My 2QM15 returns unused fuel to the fuel filter so I did not need the ($ 54.00) fuel tank return.
Another benefit of the plastic tank is that I can see how much fuel is in my tank, and the condition of the fuel. I like simple systems that do not fail.
Costs:
Thru-hull/Valve: $ 120.00
Sea Strainer: $ 110.00
Tank: $ 130.00
Quick Connects: $ 20.00
Tank tie downs: $ 14.00
Boat no longer smelling like diesel fuel...priceless.
Purchased everything from Defender Marine (where else)
Fuel Tank Replacement Hunter 33
I replaced the fuel tank in my 1980 Hunter 33 two years ago with a custom direct replacement ($ 600). Pricey, but the new tank is aluminum with thicker walls and has a drain at the bottom for any residual water that collects in the tank plus a electrcal gage to read remaining fuel. The old tank failed with a set of pin holes in the bottom of the tank. The holes allowed the fuel to leak on to the plywood mounting plate but the wooden plate retained its integrity to mount the new tank.
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