H33 buying ifo

ish · Mar 6, 2010

fiestaMojo said:
The bow pulpit was way loose, didn't seem like a show stopper; how are these fastened? At a quick look, it seems to be attached through the toerail? Is this an easy fix?

Ours is not attached through the toerail, but bolted separately at the stem and two stanchions directly to the deck above the anchor well. You can get at the stanchion backings from inside the anchor well. It should be pretty easy to inspect them; I would be concerned about the integrity of the deck there if the bolts aren't just loose. The pointy end, after all, is a favorite place for accident damage.

fiestaMojo said:
One thing that I noticed - there don't seem to be genoa car tracks. How are the genny sheet leads adjusted on this boat?

We just run ours through blocks snap-shackled to the toerail. I can think of any number of reasons why that is not ideal, but it's how the boat came to us and as far as performance, it seems to work out fairly well... and provide a broader adjustment range than conventional tracks.

rardiH36 · Mar 6, 2010

My H36 also does not have jib tracks. As Ish posted, the toe rail is the anchoring point using snap shackle blocks. Because these blocks have swiveling snap shackles, and have rubberized housings to prevent damage to hull and deck as they flap around during tacking, they're expensive. And you should have one extra block in case of loss. If these blocks are not currently on the boat and therefore are part of the purchase, query the owner that he hasn't removed them to keep for his next boat. If he/she has, get then included in the purchase as they are an integral component.

Another alternative for the toe rail lead to attach a snap shackle to a normal block (which I have done so as to keep my expensive snap blocks safely tucked away.) But then you need to do something to prevent the hard metal/plastic of a normal block to keep them from doing damage.

jorgefife · Mar 6, 2010

fiestaMojo said:
Well, had the survey today - at least most of it; with ~34 degrees and blowing snow (forecast called for 40's with plenty of sunshine at the beginning of the week - but that's New England!) the surveyor will come back to get deck moisture readings early next week. For the most part things went well, no big surprises for a boat this age. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM 20F, not the 2QM15 I expected - anyone have any experience or knowledge of this engine?
The bow pulpit was way loose, didn't seem like a show stopper; how are these fastened? At a quick look, it seems to be attached through the toerail? Is this an easy fix?
One thing that I noticed - there don't seem to be genoa car tracks. How are the genny sheet leads adjusted on this boat?
(perhaps I should wait 'til the boat is officially mine and post these questions under new threads, but I think it's about all over but the cryin')

I am sorry but I just saw your posting today.
I don't know what you paid, but there is a Hunter 33, 1982, just like mine in Houston, that was up for sale for $15,000.00 but the owner was negatiable, so K12 would have clinched it
I too have a 33, 1982, I paid a$1,000.00 (one); it had a large gash on starboard side, about an inch deep, 10 ft. long.
I was lucky to find someone who repaired it for $500.00
The boat was the only survivor in the Marina during Ike, and it came up to rest 200 yards awy against some buildings, hence the damake.
I fell in love when I saw it, I bought it for the Yanmar, owner assured me was good.
I had it towed to my marina, boat had no rudder, so I took everything apart and did all the teak work, took all winches out, and just like week stepped up the mast.
The engine had not been active for almost 2 years, it fired up within seconds.
Not knowing anything about boats, I frantically phoned the ex-owner and he told me how to switch engine off.
I recoverd all my inside with aromatic eastern cedar (someone sell it at $4.00 per plank, 4 inches x 8 ft. tongue in groove.
The old moldy carpets came off, looks beatifull inside, and smells great
The regular crowd at this forum (Schenck,Dion,Lust & Co) were invaluable in their help
I would not have done it without their help
It is a great looking boat, and I took it to the marina to step up the mast, and even though getting there was a problem(the throttle cable was not engaging), on the way back it sliced the waves like a hot knife through butter)
Lastly: I read all the comments on all the owners of similar boats... without exception they ALL would have bought the same boat, if the clock was turned back
So there you have it, for what is worth it!
Enjoy it!

rardiH36 · Mar 7, 2010

My 2GM Engine Wasn't

fiestaMojo said:
The boat has a Yanmar 2GM 20F, not the 2QM15 I expected - anyone have any experience or knowledge of this engine?

I don't really have a comment re the 2GM20F engine, just a story. The purchase surveyor for my 1980 H36C recorded the engine type being a 2GM20, which "it was" until several months later when I started work on his recommended engine maintenance list before launching the boat from the hard. The PO had left an Official Yanmar engine repair manual on board for the 2GM/3GM series. But as I tried to work on my engine, I found that location/orientation of various engine components weren't quite as the 2GM Yanmar manual pictured/described.

It turned out the engine identification label was facing a bulkhead and really couldn't be read by the surveyor. He had seen 2GM engines in the past -- and the 2GM manual was on board. So he assumed the model. I was able to get my digital camera in the space between the engine and the bulkhead to take a picture of the label. It was a 2QM20 engine! It's been a fine propulsion unit on my boat, but it is the prior model to the 2GM series. As such, certain parts for the QM series are now out of production which might become an issue in the future.

I still have the 2GM/3GM manual. FiestaMojo, if you do finalize the purchase and you need a service manual for DIY maintenance, I can send you my not needed copy as a new boat owner's present (-- but I would include a self addressed return envelope for you to use so I wouldn't be out-of-pocket for the UPS mailing cost). Another alternative for you would be to buy a Seloc manual direct from Amazon. For my 2QM engine, I have both the Yanmar official and the Seloc manuals. The Seloc is just as good (maybe better).

regards,
rardi

shemandr · Mar 10, 2010

Don't agree to a sale or price until you have the written report.

Ed Schenck · Mar 11, 2010

You should be able to examine the chainplates as is. The small part through the deck obviously will not be visible. But you are interested in the top and more importantly where they bolt to the bulkheads. Those bolts and frames should all be visible. Soft wood and/or corrosion around the nuts and bolts might be showstoppers.

Don S/V ILLusion · Mar 11, 2010

I guess the first premise which I suggest you accept is that any boat this old is going to have some moisture at the deck fittings - this only real question is how much damage, if any, it has caused and what would be required to repair it. Both questions should be easily answered by your surveyor who presumably either looked at the chainplates or can tell you what to look for.
That portion of the chain plate buried in the deck and that portion bolted/bonded to the hull are the two critical areas and may require some destructive exploration to obtain access and most owners aren't willing to have a propsective purchaser do that for obvious reasons.

So you have two choices - guess at the damage which is not that wild a concept since you can easily see some of the chainplate and residual water effects in the area to give you a good idea or walk. Given you already have deck problems in this area, the decision boils down to how much risk you are willing to take.

sandpiper10471 · Mar 12, 2010

Rebuilding/recoring the decks in the chainplate areas is not that difficult and there are lots of "experts" on this forum. A greater concern would be damage (if any) to the plywood core in the knees. To inspect these one must remove the teak plugs in the covering wood then pry them off. The structural part of the knees on the H33 is one inch ply covered on both sides by heavy glass which in turn is bonded to the hull. A very strong construction. If the ply is rotting due to longterm leakage of the chainplates, it should be visually apparent once the facing is removed. Unfortunately, you have to own the boat before you can do such destructive investigation. Same with properly inspecting the chainplates for crevice corrosion.

Rebuilding the knees would actually be easier than rebuilding the deck. However, remember that the great thing about a well built fiberglass boat is that you can rebuild her one piece at a time, with a little guidance, research and support. And an H33 is definitely worth saving! IMHP

SamLust · Mar 12, 2010

I ordered new custom, thicker (3/8") chainplates from Garhauer. The two original 27 year old plates I have removed so far are perfect.

The structural member the plates mount to are heavy fiberglass knees which are covered (at least on my boat) with solid wood. The wood is cosmetic and functional only in that it acts as a spacer. Any deterioration can be remedied with a bit of new wood. To convince yourself of this, rap on the outside of the hull in the area of the plate support knees with a plastic mallet and listen to the sound it makes.

Ed Schenck · Mar 12, 2010

Sam, how were you able to have Garhauer make custom chainplates? And how do you know the old ones are "perfect"? Will you have to change the shroud terminals do accomodate the new thickness?

jorgefife · Mar 15, 2010

I apid $1,000.00 for my Hunter 33 (1982)
I had stumbled on another boat ( a Helms 29) with no engine, so the idea was to buy the Hunter and remove the engine.
Well, when I went down below and saw the interior, I just couldn't do it.
So I sold the other boat instead *all I had done was re-cover all the seats.
I took all the teak out and either replaced with mahogony, or restored the old one
The ceilings I removed also, took all the smaelly/wet/moldy carpets and used aromatic cedar to put in it's place
Then I removed the chain plates, and cleaned up all the metal (which was in great shape)
The wood inside, holding the chain plates, I varnished also; the mast I just put up 2 weeks ago
What I'm tryng to say is that I paid little for it, but loaded with enthusiasm, I felt there was nothing I could NOT do; I didn't even know what port was (and I am portuguese)
Now I have a great boat, and have taken one piece at a time
I have learned from other owner's comments, that these are indeed great boats, so armed with above mentioned enthusias, I feel in the next 2 weeks I will be sailing
Remember, this boat was hurt badly: it lifted from the water and came to rest hundreds of yards away...but the others in the same marina sank...if you look carefully at the picture, you see just the tops of the other sailboats sticking out
So all you need is guts, and stay in good terms with the good people of this forum: they will save you money and give you the faith you need...provided of course your boat is restorable, and...how much did you pay for it?
Curious...

SamLust · Mar 15, 2010

Ed;

Having Garhauer duplicate the chainplates was fairly pain free. I had talked to them (one of the brothers, I can't remember which) and knew they would do it and had an idea of price. I loosened a forward lower shroud and un-bolted the plate. All four bolts galled and had to be muscled off. After the goop was scraped off the metal was like brand new. No crevice corrosion. I shipped the plate off to Garhauer so they could copy it. Their machinery is computer controlled and incredibly accurate. Each copy is an original, dead nuts alike. The lower termination is the toggle at the bottom of the turnbuckle, The originals are 1/4" thick. At 3/8" thick the new ones are not so much thicker that the turnbuckle toggles would not fit over them. I do have to enlarge the opening in the little trim plates that go over them. That involved a $69.00 "X" - "Y" table with vise and a couple of end mills to go on my drill press. (Stainless steel chips are especially sharp and nasty. One should remember not to wear deck shoes without socks while milling stainless.) Not quite the accuracy of Garhauer's CNC. The project now involves casting raised thickened epoxy mounds over each entry point to help keep water out. If that works I'll post pictures. If not, no one will hear of it. Oh, Garhauer came in under the original estimated price.

Ed Schenck · Mar 16, 2010

I have seen your work in Mods Sam. Not much left of the original H33. I would love to have the time to improve mine that much.

SamLust · Mar 16, 2010

I have insured my 33 with the Saint Paul through the US Power Squadron boat insurance program. Agreed value -$25k if I remember. Have never sent them survey info. If anything it was just pictures.So long ago I can't remember. Call them and ask. Actualy it's worth it to join the Power Squadron just for the insurance.