The original manual for the H33 indicates that the AC entrance cable and the outlet circuits are marine power cable. (see link). My 79 H33 was wired when I got it throughout with residential solid conductor, connected with residential wire nuts behind the breaker panel. Do any H33 owners have boats which were originally wired with the marine cable specified?. I am betting that probably all of the boats were wired with romex from the factory. Anybody changed out the romex with marine cable? Anybody have trouble with the romex? I just changed out the #10 entrance cable from solid to braided but the port side outlet circuit is so hard to get to I have about decided to leave it be.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
David Undewood
I don't know, but I'll check it....
Hey Terry, Just walked back in from a nice rainy two days at the boat, nice because it gave us the excuse to just play cards and eat mircowave popcorn! Since I am the original owner, my boat will still have exactly what Hunter put in it unless I changed it myself. I have not had any problems with Hunter's wiring, but I did replace the socket for the inlet because of either lighting, or power surge caused it to almost burn up. still passed power, but it was just hanging in there by a thread or two. Other than than, still the original. Seems like I saw "marine electrical 220v and ??? amp rated" stamped on the wire, but its been a while. I am heading back up later today, I'll check any wiring you like and report back to you. Mine is an 1982, and I'm not sure they changed anything between 79 and 82 or not, but at least its a start. Talk to ya later. David
Hey Terry, Just walked back in from a nice rainy two days at the boat, nice because it gave us the excuse to just play cards and eat mircowave popcorn! Since I am the original owner, my boat will still have exactly what Hunter put in it unless I changed it myself. I have not had any problems with Hunter's wiring, but I did replace the socket for the inlet because of either lighting, or power surge caused it to almost burn up. still passed power, but it was just hanging in there by a thread or two. Other than than, still the original. Seems like I saw "marine electrical 220v and ??? amp rated" stamped on the wire, but its been a while. I am heading back up later today, I'll check any wiring you like and report back to you. Mine is an 1982, and I'm not sure they changed anything between 79 and 82 or not, but at least its a start. Talk to ya later. David
P
Pat Taylor
Romex all the way!
Hi Terry, I have a 1975 Hunter 30 and all the original AC wiring was Romex. Like you, I changed out the entrance cable with #10 stranded marine grade wire. I also changed out the starboard wiring. But like you, I let the port side alone. Sounds like the older Hunters were "solid" in more ways than one. Pat
Hi Terry, I have a 1975 Hunter 30 and all the original AC wiring was Romex. Like you, I changed out the entrance cable with #10 stranded marine grade wire. I also changed out the starboard wiring. But like you, I let the port side alone. Sounds like the older Hunters were "solid" in more ways than one. Pat
D
Dan Sheehan AMS
ROMEX is not for marine use
ROMEX or any solid copper wire does not meet ABYC or NFPA standards for marine use and in fact has caused many electrical fires on boats. The solid conductor tends to fracture inside the insulation when subjected to vibration over long periods of time. This causes arcing and a burn through at the point of the break. Many marine insurance companies will not insure vessels that they know are wired with ROMEX cable. Also wire nuts are also not suitable or approved for marine use due to their tendancy to corrode and fall off leaving exposed live wires. To check wether a vessels wiring meets applicable standards you can refer to ABYC ( American Boat and Yacht Council) standards E-8 for AC eletrical systems and E-9 for DC systems. The hunters I have surveyed from this era were wired from the factory with boat cable and crimp connectors and are fully in compliance with even current standards. The wire in the AC system should say BOAT CABLE on the wire.
ROMEX or any solid copper wire does not meet ABYC or NFPA standards for marine use and in fact has caused many electrical fires on boats. The solid conductor tends to fracture inside the insulation when subjected to vibration over long periods of time. This causes arcing and a burn through at the point of the break. Many marine insurance companies will not insure vessels that they know are wired with ROMEX cable. Also wire nuts are also not suitable or approved for marine use due to their tendancy to corrode and fall off leaving exposed live wires. To check wether a vessels wiring meets applicable standards you can refer to ABYC ( American Boat and Yacht Council) standards E-8 for AC eletrical systems and E-9 for DC systems. The hunters I have surveyed from this era were wired from the factory with boat cable and crimp connectors and are fully in compliance with even current standards. The wire in the AC system should say BOAT CABLE on the wire.
R
Rick Webb
How About the Receptacles
I was thinking of adding a couple of outlets to my boat where is a good place to get and what should I look for with the receptacles?
I was thinking of adding a couple of outlets to my boat where is a good place to get and what should I look for with the receptacles?
D
Dan Sheehan AMS
Receptacles
Receptacles need only be UL approved. The same as you would use in a home. Except where installed in a head, galley or engine compartment. Then they need to be GFCI protected. They may be installed in UL approved metallic or non-metallic boxes. Dan Sheehan
Receptacles need only be UL approved. The same as you would use in a home. Except where installed in a head, galley or engine compartment. Then they need to be GFCI protected. They may be installed in UL approved metallic or non-metallic boxes. Dan Sheehan
D
Doug T.
GFCI
GFCI protection is used in homes where there's likely to be contact with water: bathrooms, kitchens, etc. Since sailboats are very wet environments, I'd use GFCI receptacles throughout. (Your v-berth might not be wet most of the time, but if you tie up to shore power after returning to the dock after an unexpected rainstorm where everything and everybody got soaked to the bone.... better safe than sorry.)
GFCI protection is used in homes where there's likely to be contact with water: bathrooms, kitchens, etc. Since sailboats are very wet environments, I'd use GFCI receptacles throughout. (Your v-berth might not be wet most of the time, but if you tie up to shore power after returning to the dock after an unexpected rainstorm where everything and everybody got soaked to the bone.... better safe than sorry.)
R
Rick Webb
GFCI are Good Things
I had planned to use one. They can also be used to control other plug outlets in the same circut, which is what I had planned. Is there a reason to not do it that way?
I had planned to use one. They can also be used to control other plug outlets in the same circut, which is what I had planned. Is there a reason to not do it that way?
D
Doug T.
Single circuit
Putting everything on a single sircuit with one receptacle being GFCI sounds OK to me. Curious: What did you plan for the AC ground? I'm told that the ground wire should be wired to the boat's common ground. Is that right?
Putting everything on a single sircuit with one receptacle being GFCI sounds OK to me. Curious: What did you plan for the AC ground? I'm told that the ground wire should be wired to the boat's common ground. Is that right?
R
Rick Webb
Doug, I Have Not Gotten That Far Yet
I was not going to hook up anything directly I was just going to install two outlets one for a fan or to hang a lightbulb the other for the battery charger. Nothing more than a hidden extension cord.
I was not going to hook up anything directly I was just going to install two outlets one for a fan or to hang a lightbulb the other for the battery charger. Nothing more than a hidden extension cord.
E
Ed Schenck
More on GFCI.
My H37C has two 110AC breakers, one for port and one for starboard. You need one GFCI on each circuit. Just replace the first one off the breaker and everything downstream is protected. The outlets that I bought at Lowes had instructions on the box for proper wiring. One problem that I had, the standard Hunter boxes were too small. I replaced them with the heavy blue plastic models which required some hole enlarging.
My H37C has two 110AC breakers, one for port and one for starboard. You need one GFCI on each circuit. Just replace the first one off the breaker and everything downstream is protected. The outlets that I bought at Lowes had instructions on the box for proper wiring. One problem that I had, the standard Hunter boxes were too small. I replaced them with the heavy blue plastic models which required some hole enlarging.
T
Tim Schaaf
B
Buddy Redman
Changed AC Wiring
I had the same problem when I purchased my boat. One of the first cool evenings I spent on the boat I hooked up a small electric heater to take the chill off. It wasn't long before I could smell a burning odor. When I checked the breaker panel it was warm, so I opened the compartment and noticed that the wire to the circuit I was using was arcing where it connected to the breaker. It appeared that the connection had worked loose over time from vibration. The rigid wire was the problem. I did rewire all of the ac circuits with marine grade wire and have not had a repeat of the problem. It has been four years. When the surveyor wrote his review, he mentioned the romex wire needed changing. My insurance company also said the corrections noted by the surveyor would need to be made if they were to insure the boat.
I had the same problem when I purchased my boat. One of the first cool evenings I spent on the boat I hooked up a small electric heater to take the chill off. It wasn't long before I could smell a burning odor. When I checked the breaker panel it was warm, so I opened the compartment and noticed that the wire to the circuit I was using was arcing where it connected to the breaker. It appeared that the connection had worked loose over time from vibration. The rigid wire was the problem. I did rewire all of the ac circuits with marine grade wire and have not had a repeat of the problem. It has been four years. When the surveyor wrote his review, he mentioned the romex wire needed changing. My insurance company also said the corrections noted by the surveyor would need to be made if they were to insure the boat.
D
Doug T.
E
Ed Schenck
AC Ground confusion.
The confusion in Calder's book could be the difference between AC neutral and AC ground. Many of us senior folks knew them to be the same wire, black was hot and white was neutral. But white was also called "ground". With 3-wire we now have white as neutral and green as ground. In your house they are the same thing, both green and white end up as a real "earth" ground. What Calder is saying is that on your boat ONLY green goes to common(earth) ground. That "earth" ground is the same as DC ground and is almost always the engine block.
The confusion in Calder's book could be the difference between AC neutral and AC ground. Many of us senior folks knew them to be the same wire, black was hot and white was neutral. But white was also called "ground". With 3-wire we now have white as neutral and green as ground. In your house they are the same thing, both green and white end up as a real "earth" ground. What Calder is saying is that on your boat ONLY green goes to common(earth) ground. That "earth" ground is the same as DC ground and is almost always the engine block.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.