I have a H33.5 that needs the foller furling line changed as the old one is on it's last legs. This particular model has the drum for the line below the deck and barely accesable. Anyone been there and done that ?
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Mine is recessed, too!
I have a Legend 37 (1988) an it's recessed, too. But I didn't have a problem when I changed to an SL head a few years ago. When I changed the line, and keep this in mind, the instructions requested braided line, Then it said to strip the core from the first 15' that rolls on to the drum. This was to prevent the line fro bunching up on the drum because it'd too thick, otherwise. Just keep this in ind when you put a new head on and it jams from too thick line. Obviously, if you have the DL, then I never had to deal with that. But, I think, that line will need to be spliced. P.S. I changed from the DL to the SL because of slippage on the DL.
I have a Legend 37 (1988) an it's recessed, too. But I didn't have a problem when I changed to an SL head a few years ago. When I changed the line, and keep this in mind, the instructions requested braided line, Then it said to strip the core from the first 15' that rolls on to the drum. This was to prevent the line fro bunching up on the drum because it'd too thick, otherwise. Just keep this in ind when you put a new head on and it jams from too thick line. Obviously, if you have the DL, then I never had to deal with that. But, I think, that line will need to be spliced. P.S. I changed from the DL to the SL because of slippage on the DL.
Furler Problems
Patrick, sorry I havn't needed to change mine out yet but do incounter furling problems. If you don't mind me asking have you noted any contact between the drum and the deck of the boat while under load? Mine seems to rub on the inner diameter of the hole the drum sits in. Just wondered if others had the problem. Jeff 1993 H33.5
Patrick, sorry I havn't needed to change mine out yet but do incounter furling problems. If you don't mind me asking have you noted any contact between the drum and the deck of the boat while under load? Mine seems to rub on the inner diameter of the hole the drum sits in. Just wondered if others had the problem. Jeff 1993 H33.5
It can be done
You didn't say if you have the Hood furler with the loop or single line. In any case, if the boat is in the water, take your spinnaker and/or main halyard and attach to a secure place on the bow. I believe that I used the dock cleat on the port side since the anchor locker hatch must be open when you service your roller furling. You will need to reduce tension on the back stay to allow the mast to go forward enough to slacken the forstay. Tighten the halyard replacing the forestay. Disconnect the forestay from its attachment point beneath the drum. You will then be able to get to the furler inside the anchor locker and loosen the collar on the lower half of the drum. Lower the drum to give you access to the furling loop and slip it off under the furling. The moon shaped device called the "Rope Stripper" may come out and will have to be re-installed when re-assembling the unit. I don't know any way to get a spliced loop through the 2 fittings on the deck before the anchor locker. This will have to be spliced at the time of installation or if done later, just take one end of the line down through the blocks and drum and back up through the deck and even out the ends at the far end. This may save you some time if you need to find somebody to do the splicing if you cannot do it. Just tie the ends together temporarily. This is assuming you have the original Hood 810LD furler. If you do not have the instruction book, you can go on-line and call up the parts list with drawings so that you can get it all back together. The link is below if you need it. Good luck, Ken Check out my website at http://www.lakeontariosailing.com
You didn't say if you have the Hood furler with the loop or single line. In any case, if the boat is in the water, take your spinnaker and/or main halyard and attach to a secure place on the bow. I believe that I used the dock cleat on the port side since the anchor locker hatch must be open when you service your roller furling. You will need to reduce tension on the back stay to allow the mast to go forward enough to slacken the forstay. Tighten the halyard replacing the forestay. Disconnect the forestay from its attachment point beneath the drum. You will then be able to get to the furler inside the anchor locker and loosen the collar on the lower half of the drum. Lower the drum to give you access to the furling loop and slip it off under the furling. The moon shaped device called the "Rope Stripper" may come out and will have to be re-installed when re-assembling the unit. I don't know any way to get a spliced loop through the 2 fittings on the deck before the anchor locker. This will have to be spliced at the time of installation or if done later, just take one end of the line down through the blocks and drum and back up through the deck and even out the ends at the far end. This may save you some time if you need to find somebody to do the splicing if you cannot do it. Just tie the ends together temporarily. This is assuming you have the original Hood 810LD furler. If you do not have the instruction book, you can go on-line and call up the parts list with drawings so that you can get it all back together. The link is below if you need it. Good luck, Ken Check out my website at http://www.lakeontariosailing.com
Thanks, good info.
I have not had any problem with the drum rubbing while under load as far as I can tell.It does get what I think is an overwrap occasionally. I going to print all your responses, Im out the door to Charleston SC to help a friend bring his boat to FLL. Thanks again, it's good to be a sailor !!!!!
I have not had any problem with the drum rubbing while under load as far as I can tell.It does get what I think is an overwrap occasionally. I going to print all your responses, Im out the door to Charleston SC to help a friend bring his boat to FLL. Thanks again, it's good to be a sailor !!!!!
Over-wrap
Maybe you will read this after your trip. Over-wrap could be if you are using single line to the drum and not the infamous "loop". I had a problem last year with what appeared to be something sticking when I went to furl or unfurl. What I thought to be a bad upper swivel turned out to be the upper bearing. This is two halves inserted in the extrusion and screwed or riveted down. One of the halves was missing, causing a wrap of the halyard up top. They say this can be repaired without taking the mast down, but I took mine down for the winter anyway. Hopefully everything will be perfect come launch time. If the snow ever stops. *pop
Maybe you will read this after your trip. Over-wrap could be if you are using single line to the drum and not the infamous "loop". I had a problem last year with what appeared to be something sticking when I went to furl or unfurl. What I thought to be a bad upper swivel turned out to be the upper bearing. This is two halves inserted in the extrusion and screwed or riveted down. One of the halves was missing, causing a wrap of the halyard up top. They say this can be repaired without taking the mast down, but I took mine down for the winter anyway. Hopefully everything will be perfect come launch time. If the snow ever stops. *pop
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