Greetings, I'm trying to purchase a specific Hunter 31 that I found. I'm hoping someone can give me some practical advice on a chainplate problem. The tie-rod (for lack of a better word) threads into the fitting shown. The fitting is at the same level as the setee seat. The photo shows pretty serious rust and corrosion. What do yours look like? Is this a serious problem? I couldn't tell if that "plate" was embedded in the liner, the hull, or just a very big washer type part that is being held in place by the rig tension. Does this look like a show stopper? If that fitting is embedded in the hull I'm pretty worried about it. Thanks! -Richard
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Mine too.....
Ironically, Mine looks just like yours. I just noticed this on my 84 H31 today. Was trying to figure out what the hole is for beside the stainless rod. Will wait on responses with you......Gary
Ironically, Mine looks just like yours. I just noticed this on my 84 H31 today. Was trying to figure out what the hole is for beside the stainless rod. Will wait on responses with you......Gary
Chainplate
I was told that there is a piece of angle iron glassed in there. I heard of one that needed repair and they had to cut the outside of the hull to get access to the steel. Mine wasn't rusty but spent most of it's like in fresh water
I was told that there is a piece of angle iron glassed in there. I heard of one that needed repair and they had to cut the outside of the hull to get access to the steel. Mine wasn't rusty but spent most of it's like in fresh water
I would highly recommend you have a "qualified" marine surveyer check the vessel in question. I would also contact Hunter Support and ask for their advice. Hunter support has always been helpful to me and if they don't know the answer right away, they'll find out and get back to you.
Surveyor required...
Yes, I absolutely will get a surveyor. I'm just in that initial mode where you decide if you really want to go for it and rack up the expense of the survey. I'll call Hunter on Monday. Also, I need a new starboard rear lazarette seat cover. (Curver figerglass seat that covers the lazarette.) How hard is that stuff to come by from Hunter? -Richard
Yes, I absolutely will get a surveyor. I'm just in that initial mode where you decide if you really want to go for it and rack up the expense of the survey. I'll call Hunter on Monday. Also, I need a new starboard rear lazarette seat cover. (Curver figerglass seat that covers the lazarette.) How hard is that stuff to come by from Hunter? -Richard
Richard,
I've R&Rd this assembly on my H34. They are similar designs. The angle iron is captured inside that glass beam. If it ever needs to be removed then the hull would be cut open and then re-glassed. The hull bears no load from the rig and the beam does, so don't mess with the beam. Do what Alan suggested but the nut welded to the angle iron beam is probably fine. On the 34 the wood from the seat tops is not captured by the 'tie rod'. Strange design. You shouldn't have to remove the chainplates to take out the seat tops. *o What year is this boat?
I've R&Rd this assembly on my H34. They are similar designs. The angle iron is captured inside that glass beam. If it ever needs to be removed then the hull would be cut open and then re-glassed. The hull bears no load from the rig and the beam does, so don't mess with the beam. Do what Alan suggested but the nut welded to the angle iron beam is probably fine. On the 34 the wood from the seat tops is not captured by the 'tie rod'. Strange design. You shouldn't have to remove the chainplates to take out the seat tops. *o What year is this boat?
Sounds serious...
Fred, thanks for the specific info on this. It sounds pretty serious if indeed there is a problem. I'll call Hunter, and based on the conversation here I'll probably go ahead with the survey. Thanks again. -Richard
Fred, thanks for the specific info on this. It sounds pretty serious if indeed there is a problem. I'll call Hunter, and based on the conversation here I'll probably go ahead with the survey. Thanks again. -Richard
Mine looked the same. Here's an idea.
Mine looked the same as yours. I just bought the boat in August. The surveyor didn't think it was a problem. when I went to have it insured the insurance company wanted a visual inspection of the chain plates. There was no access. I had a marine mechanic look at the problem and he went into the under seat compartment and drilled a 3" inspection hole into the wall, so we could see the chain plates themselves. They looked good and all is well. The rust on the top bothered me, but everyone says that in a boat 18 years old the moisture runs down that rod and it is going to rust and flake a bit. This is just my story, I'll be watching this post to see if there are any other ideas.
Mine looked the same as yours. I just bought the boat in August. The surveyor didn't think it was a problem. when I went to have it insured the insurance company wanted a visual inspection of the chain plates. There was no access. I had a marine mechanic look at the problem and he went into the under seat compartment and drilled a 3" inspection hole into the wall, so we could see the chain plates themselves. They looked good and all is well. The rust on the top bothered me, but everyone says that in a boat 18 years old the moisture runs down that rod and it is going to rust and flake a bit. This is just my story, I'll be watching this post to see if there are any other ideas.
doesn't look that bad to me
Yours doesn't look that bad. The steel that it is screwed into is pretty thick. Definitely have a surveyor look at it. But I wouldn't sweat it too much. Scrape off the loose stuff and coat with rust converter.
Yours doesn't look that bad. The steel that it is screwed into is pretty thick. Definitely have a surveyor look at it. But I wouldn't sweat it too much. Scrape off the loose stuff and coat with rust converter.
Mine is clean
The rod and rod threads on my 1983 Hunter 31 are completely dry and clean. Good luck. Jim McClung. S/V Drum
The rod and rod threads on my 1983 Hunter 31 are completely dry and clean. Good luck. Jim McClung. S/V Drum
Called Hunter
I called Hunter, they were very helpful. They faxed me a drawing of the setup. The rusted metal seen in my photos is actually a thick piece of angle iron, as someone else reported. It is installed with the open part of the angle facing outboard. It is captured, though not glassed in. The other threaded hole that can be seen was used with a keeper during construction. There is a large (2"?) bolt underneath the angle that is not visible, in addition to the tie-rod being threaded into the angle iron. As reported, if repair was necessary, the hull would have to be opened up, being careful not to damage the integral beam that the angle is actually a part of. I couldn't close the deal on this particular boat, but after collecting data the appearance of those plates wouldn't have kept me from proceeding to survey. Thank you for all the information and opinions guys. Much appreciated... I'll probably be back for more if I can find another H31 to proceed to offer on. -Richard
I called Hunter, they were very helpful. They faxed me a drawing of the setup. The rusted metal seen in my photos is actually a thick piece of angle iron, as someone else reported. It is installed with the open part of the angle facing outboard. It is captured, though not glassed in. The other threaded hole that can be seen was used with a keeper during construction. There is a large (2"?) bolt underneath the angle that is not visible, in addition to the tie-rod being threaded into the angle iron. As reported, if repair was necessary, the hull would have to be opened up, being careful not to damage the integral beam that the angle is actually a part of. I couldn't close the deal on this particular boat, but after collecting data the appearance of those plates wouldn't have kept me from proceeding to survey. Thank you for all the information and opinions guys. Much appreciated... I'll probably be back for more if I can find another H31 to proceed to offer on. -Richard
Thanks for your report....
After reading your post, I went to the boat, cleaned rust scale and treated it with ospho to kill the rust. Then went back next day and painted. My mast is unstepped for modification, so there being no load on the SS tie-rod (as you named it), I could move it forward and aft slightly, so, Hunter is right, it is not glassed in. Good luck in you quest finding another 31 or whatever....Gary
After reading your post, I went to the boat, cleaned rust scale and treated it with ospho to kill the rust. Then went back next day and painted. My mast is unstepped for modification, so there being no load on the SS tie-rod (as you named it), I could move it forward and aft slightly, so, Hunter is right, it is not glassed in. Good luck in you quest finding another 31 or whatever....Gary
Gary, one more thing.
Seeing as how your mast is down, I think you should re-bed your chain plates. It's easy to do. Rust should not form on the angle iron beam. Water must be getting to it. Pull the fasteners that keep the chain plate in place and just unscrew the assembly. Normally I would advise that you count the number of turns so that you can properly reassemble but if the angle iron is loose without a shroud load,,,,well, that's too loose for me. You're pulling your deck up via the four anti-rotation screws. (if your boat is like mine) The fact that you have rust below is the clincher. The caulk has pulled apart with the shrouds installed. When the rod is out, clean out the old caulk and then tape up the deck around the plate so as to minimize cleanup. I would re-install so as to tighten against the deck and then add a turn. I'd say good luck but you won't need it. The job is really easy.
Seeing as how your mast is down, I think you should re-bed your chain plates. It's easy to do. Rust should not form on the angle iron beam. Water must be getting to it. Pull the fasteners that keep the chain plate in place and just unscrew the assembly. Normally I would advise that you count the number of turns so that you can properly reassemble but if the angle iron is loose without a shroud load,,,,well, that's too loose for me. You're pulling your deck up via the four anti-rotation screws. (if your boat is like mine) The fact that you have rust below is the clincher. The caulk has pulled apart with the shrouds installed. When the rod is out, clean out the old caulk and then tape up the deck around the plate so as to minimize cleanup. I would re-install so as to tighten against the deck and then add a turn. I'd say good luck but you won't need it. The job is really easy.
Fred.....Need clarification
Remove the screws securing the chainplates to the deck (right?) Then do I unscrew the whole chainplate from the SS rod, or does the rod unscrew along with the chainplate? Thanks! I wouldn't have thought to do this.....Gary
Remove the screws securing the chainplates to the deck (right?) Then do I unscrew the whole chainplate from the SS rod, or does the rod unscrew along with the chainplate? Thanks! I wouldn't have thought to do this.....Gary
Gary, on mine, and on the 31 too, I'm sure, the
rod is welded to the chain plate. It's all one piece. Just put a wrench on the chain plate and turn it. (counter clock wise of course) It's so much fun.
rod is welded to the chain plate. It's all one piece. Just put a wrench on the chain plate and turn it. (counter clock wise of course) It's so much fun.
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