H290 Refrigeration, part II

[Jon Bastien]

So, about a year ago, I posted about the non-working refrigeration in my Hunter 290... and thought I'd post an update.

To recap, there's an Adler Barbour Cold Machine installed in my H290 that hasn't worked since I purchased the boat in 2011. I've finally gotten around to that item on the project list, and have done the following troubleshooting:

Problem: Unit does NOTHING when power applied.
- Bypassed ship's wiring, and hooked directly to batteries to eliminate corroded wiring. No change.
- Bypassed thermostat (jumping 'C' and 'T' on controller), and disconnected fan ('F'). No change.
- Installed a troubleshooting LED (It took a while to find instructions for this... It really is as simple as buying a $2 LED and hooking it between the smaller '+' and 'D'). When power is applied to the unit, I get 5 blinks (Overheated); Since it indicates this immediately and without trying to start the compressor, the expert advice is that the controller is bad.

SO, I've removed the controller and have a new one on order. Now for the question...

Once the new controller is installed, should I be concerned about starting up the unit after it's been idle for... at least three years, and possibly as long as 10 or 12? Is there anything I should do to the compressor to ensure I don't damage the mechanicals as soon as I power it up?

Thanks,
--Jon

 

[Richard Kollmann]

Jon, A system that has not been open to allow air in refrigerant could set many years without damage to compressor so installl new module. If compressor dues not start and run there is an electrical problem. If LED flashes any code go to my web site and read Tech Tip #2.
If your Adler Barbour is a CU100 or CU200 also read Tech Tip #1

 

[nolasafari]

I the compressor will not run after all else fails tap it with a rubber hammer they sometimes stick. Last Resort before junking.

Jim

 

[Jon Bastien]

Richard,

Your web site has been an INVALUABLE tool in helping me get this far, and I want to thank you for publishing that information. Your web page is my first stop any time I'm trying to suss out the way-ahead for work on my refrigeration unit.

I did notice, however, that it's missing two very helpful steps in troubleshooting-- First, simple instructions for hooking up an LED to a unit that doesn't have one, and second, a definition for 'five blinks' once the LED is connected. I was able to get this information from a combination of Google searches and a guide that was provided to a fellow boater via his refrigeration tech... If you'd like, I can send them to you via e-mail.

Thanks again for checking in on this site, too! I'll post back with how the new controller works out...

--Jon

Edit: I stand corrected- Tech Tip #2 does talk about 5 flashes. --JDB

 

[Richard Kollmann]

Jon, I had one of these units with 5 flash LED code two weeks ago that was corrected by a bad ground connection at boats ground buss. This boater was going to replace compressor. Simple logic of hitting it with a hammer no longer works when an electronic micro processor has final control over whether a motor runs or not.

I retired twenty four years ago and still do not understand even a transistor. When a GE washing machine technician advised me to reboot my washer by unplugging it and after plugging it in again to open and close lid 7 times its computer would be reset. Yep he new what he was talking about. It is too bad the boat refrigeration repair and after market support industry is only interested in selling products.