Need to remove the teak and holly plywood flooring on my H27 to get to the base under the compression post. After drilling out 3 fake screw plugs I wonder what holds the flooring in place. Anyone out there have any luck removing the plywood to get to the bilge and mast compression base?
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No teak and holly in my '77 h27
Just a fiberglass floor on top of the grid. The compression post rests on the floor with no special support below it. David Lady Lillie
Just a fiberglass floor on top of the grid. The compression post rests on the floor with no special support below it. David Lady Lillie
I am a little confused.......
on my H-27, there are two teak and holly sole inserts. The forward one is over the main bilge (and float) with two compartments connected by a drain hole. It has a finger chrome "lift-out" insert. The aft one is about 8-10 " further aft of the forward one. It, also has drain holes into the forward bilge section. However, the mast compression post sits on fiberglass and not the teak and holly. By the way, the aft teak and holly sole is screwed down with four brass screws through the wood. Remove the screws, take a rounded old table knife and insert between the fiberglass and wood and lift the sole out. Please explain how your's is different from this.
on my H-27, there are two teak and holly sole inserts. The forward one is over the main bilge (and float) with two compartments connected by a drain hole. It has a finger chrome "lift-out" insert. The aft one is about 8-10 " further aft of the forward one. It, also has drain holes into the forward bilge section. However, the mast compression post sits on fiberglass and not the teak and holly. By the way, the aft teak and holly sole is screwed down with four brass screws through the wood. Remove the screws, take a rounded old table knife and insert between the fiberglass and wood and lift the sole out. Please explain how your's is different from this.
What I found
On my 1980 H27, the teak and holly flooring was attached by pegs and silicone glue. I was able to pry the flooring up off the pan since the silicone is not real strong. The pegs held the flooring down while the silicone dried. The biggest problem was having to remove bracing for the engine compartment and the head bulkhead. Warren Renninger
On my 1980 H27, the teak and holly flooring was attached by pegs and silicone glue. I was able to pry the flooring up off the pan since the silicone is not real strong. The pegs held the flooring down while the silicone dried. The biggest problem was having to remove bracing for the engine compartment and the head bulkhead. Warren Renninger
Mine's the same as Jay's
I have an '82 Hunter 27, and have the same set up as Jay Kent. Two separate floor boards (one has a ring pull, the other doesn't). I'm actually going to install a ring pull in the smaller floorboard, so I can clean out that part of the bilge (which CAN get pretty groaty). This winter, I'm going to pull both boards, strip and refinish for next year. For what it's worth...
I have an '82 Hunter 27, and have the same set up as Jay Kent. Two separate floor boards (one has a ring pull, the other doesn't). I'm actually going to install a ring pull in the smaller floorboard, so I can clean out that part of the bilge (which CAN get pretty groaty). This winter, I'm going to pull both boards, strip and refinish for next year. For what it's worth...
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