H27 - Repowering

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Mike Andersen

Hi All, I'm at the point of researching the details of repowering a 1980 H27. I'd like to put in a Yanmar 2GM20 in place of the Renault that's currently there. When talking to local marinas one asked if new beds have to be put in for the new motor mounts because of the engine change. I was also asked if I'd consider a Volvo engine - has anyone used one? I also understand from reading the archives that the stairs will have to be remounted 6" forward of its current position. Any suggestions as how to do this would be appreciated (pictures a bonus). TIA - Mike
 
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Carl Foster

Repower

I repowered with 2GM20 in my '79 27'.I hesitate to say much as i was recently caught out by '80 being different in the bow area so may be different in engine compartment.As far as '79 it is very straight forward,had to raise mounts 1"[alum.blocks]and reposition mount holes.No change to companionway steps,close but still room for sound insulation.By the way,mine was 2GM20F,freshwater cooled.Need to change controls to single lever system and reprop. Hope i'm not caught out with wrong info again.
 
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Dave

Why single lever

I've heard a few times that people who repowered had to change to a single lever control. Why?
 
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Carl Foster

Single lever

That is the way the Yanmar eng/trans is set up.Works out real well,have mine about 11yrs now and wouldn't go back to 2 levers if had choice.
 
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Dave

but....

Do you have to? Will it still work with the dual levers? I have binnacle mounted, and dont want to change to a single on the side ( lip ) of a seat.
 
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Richard Marble

Repowering a 1981 Hunter 27

I just put a Vetus 16 HP twin diesel in my 1981 Hunter 27. So far I have been very happy with it. A couple of things you may like to know. # 1 The reason I picked Vetus is that 16 Horse Power is about what a 27 Hunter needs for power(a 15 HP would probably do just fine too). It does no good to overpower because wake speed is all your going to get out of a sail boat and it costs more money to overpower. That brings me to the next point # 2 This motor cost about $4,600.00 a couple of months ago. You will pay I’ll bet $1,000.00 or more for a Yanmar 18 twin and the extra power you don’t need. # 3 You can leave the prop you are now using on the boat. H&H prop told me that with my prop the new motor would be 200 RPM under what it should be running at when full throttle. That’s not much of a difference. I don’t think I’ll be running anywhere near full throttle with this engine anyway so I figured I’d try it and see. So far I don’t see any problem at all. This saved me an additional $200.00 because I didn’t have to get my proper reworked. # 4 The guy that put the new engine in for me flipped my iron motor supports upside down, had to extend them an inch or two and had to cut some to the right angle out of them. I also had to lift my steps about an inch and slide them forward and an inch and a half. That was about a and the engine fits quite well in the space. He made a new panel to put the controls for the boat in out in the cockpit and everything looks real good, like it was made this way. # 5 The engine is self priming and started fist time with no delay. Its very quiet and vibration is nill. ,
 
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Carl Foster

Single or nothing

At least that is what the literature that came with the engine said
 
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Tom La Roche

Re-powered 1980 Hunter 27

I was fortunate enough to purchase my boat from an individual who had recently re-powered her with a new Yanmar, model 2GM20F,freshwater cooled. It is a quiet, economical, and very dependable little main engine. I agree that it was not a cheap refit, as I saw what the yard charged to install it. However, power and safety often go hand in hand when you travel in a busy shipping channel. I have had to maneuver quickly more than once to avoid a collision with larger, drunker boaters. More power equals quicker response when you hit the throttle. Further, when you have the wind and tide both working against you, it’s nice to have enough brute power to still get up the channel, and back into your slip at the marina. BTW: I still have my dual-controls mounted on Enterprise’s pedestal, and they work just fine, thank you very much. Smooth Sailing to all.
 
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Carl Foster

Single lever

Quote from Yanmar operation manual chapter 3 page23 "[3-6]Remote control 1]Control cable Use only the single lever remote control device with 1GM10,2GM20, 3GM30 and 3HM35 engines. NOTE The dual lever remote control device cannot be used." At the time the extra expense was not welcome but according to "The Book"there was no choice.
 
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tom c

single lever

there is no reason to replace your dual lever with a single lever. replaced my YSM12 with a 3GM30F 14 years ago still works great. if your installer cant make it work look for another installer.
 
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Carl Foster

tom c

Since i was the "installer"i had to go with the best info available at the time.I would have gone the two lever route if it were not for the "manual's"explicit[sp]directions.Fortunately for todays retrofitters of Yanmars,they have a choice,thanks to Bill Gates and the Forums. This thread is first time i have heard of ability to use two levers.
 
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Pat McCartin

A 1GM10 is perfect

I'd put in a 1GM10, easiest install=cheapest route. PS. I'll be interested in your Renault when you get done. As far as Volvo=expensive Pat McCartin
 
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Ed Allen

thoughts on the levers

single or double levers can be used with all the yanmars ive delt with in the last 30 or so years. why one over the other? A. you have one or the other. b. you like one better than the other. I think the single levers work great with minimal problems. and it is much harder to abuse your transmission than with two levers. the neutral lock out helps to prevent inadertant starting in gear. two levers are fun take both hands and are more traditional i guess
 
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