h27 cutlass bearing

Misty-Q · Feb 12, 2006

Help with bearing

I have an inexpensive set of calipers on the boat, just measure it. As well, I need to do this also. It appears to me that first I will need to spray it with some WD-40, I would think that with the proper size punch and a hammer, tapping around it evenly and lighty it should walk right out. I think using the old one to install the new one will work OK as well. My 1976 Hunter 27' needed this done a few years ago, I must get to it soon.

gary · Feb 13, 2006

cutlass bearing removal

Mine was a bugger to remove.You cann;t hammer to hard or you will damage the strut.Iwas able to rent a cutlass bearing removal tool from some one on this web site. He lives in the state of wash. i think and he offered it for rental.This tool is the only way to go.It presses the old one out and press the new one in.Best of all you don't have to remove the shaft. To remove shaft you have to drop the rudder.Check old files for may, june ,july. Good luck

gary · Feb 13, 2006

cutlass bearing removal

Mine was a bugger to remove.You cann;t hammer to hard or you will damage the strut.Iwas able to rent a cutlass bearing removal tool from some one on this web site. He lives in the state of wash. i think and he offered it for rental.This tool is the only way to go.It presses the old one out and press the new one in.Best of all you don't have to remove the shaft. To remove shaft you have to drop the rudder.Check old files for may, june ,july. Good luck

patrick · Feb 13, 2006

I used some all thread and found

some sockets and washers to make a puller to get mine out. You may not need to do that if it is loose enough. You might also try heating the strut body where it fits in.

patrick · Feb 13, 2006

I used some all thread and found

some sockets and washers to make a puller to get mine out. You may not need to do that if it is loose enough. You might also try heating the strut body where it fits in.

Howard · Feb 19, 2006

Pull the Shaft

I replaced the cutlass bearing on my H27 a few years ago. Ther may be a special tool to get the bearing out while the shaft is in the boat but no one I talked to knew of one.Did the job as follows by pulling the shaft.1) Drop the rudder. (It may work with the rudder in place but I don't think the prop will pass the rudder.2)Loosen the set screws on the rear shaft flange. 3) Unbolt the two plates in the rear of the engine, put a socket in between the plates centered on the shaft and the crakshaft and tighten the flange bolts. Repeat with bigger sockets or spqcers and eventually the shaft will pop out of the rear flange. 4) When this is done I polished the brass shaft with steel wool and lubricated it with dish soap and the shaft pulled out the back of the boat. You may have to loosen the drip bearing. It's a good time to replace the drip packing. It also a good time to have the shft cheked for strightness, balance the prop and have the pitch checked.5) Once the shaft is out to get the cutlass bearing out all you need is a hacksaw blade. From the back of the boat on the ground, cut the rubber lining and the brass sleeve of the cutlass bearing with the blade. You don't need the hacksaw only the blade. Go slow the brass is thin and soft and you don't want to cut into the strut. 6)With a small screwdriver pry up the end of the bearing near the cut. Then take a needlee nose plyers and you can twist/turn/pull the old bearing out. 7) Remove the one or two set screws. They may be hard to find because they are probably filled with bottom paint. If you rub you finger on the inside of the strut (where the bearing came out) you should be able to feel them. Once you find them you can use a pick or small nail or something to clean the end of the set screws . (They are hex head for an allen wrench). Back out the screws and use emery cloth, sand paper or stainles steel wool to polish the inside of the strut. This will make it much easier to put the new bearing in. 8) Most marine shops will allow you to buy a few different 1" cutlass bearing ans return the ones you don't need. Find the bearing the fits in the strut. It will may only go in an inch or so by hand. 9) Use dish soap to lube the bearing and strut. Use a lot. It washes away. DON'T USE OIL OR GERASE as this may damage the rubber inside of the bearing. 10) You may be able to tap the bearing GENTLEY into place with a small hammer and a block of wood but you may damange or bend the bearing.so be careful.11) I made a simple bearing tool with a piece of threaded rod about 9" long (a long bolt would also work), a few big washers and few nuts. Put the nut on the rod followed by the big washer (it needs to be bigger than the diameter of the bearing). Put the bearing in place as far as it will go by hand. Put the rod and washer in the rear of the bearing and put a wahser and nut on the forward side of the strut. Slowly tighenten the nut on the forward side and the bearing should be pulled into place. 12) Put the shaft back in. Use dish soap on the shaft to hep is ease in. Rememebr to tighetn the set screws insied the boat and all of the screws on the flanges.13)If the bearing is a little long you can trim the part that hand over with the hack saw. Too long is OK to Short is not. 14) With the shaft in place put a dimple in cutlass bearing in each of the cultass bearing set screw holes. Use a punch or a small blunt nail. A little tap will do.15) repace the set screws and tighten. I replaxce the set screws with new. It was easier then completely cleaning the old ones.16) Cover set screws with bottom paint. This will keep them from vibrating out.17) Replace rudder. Hope this helps.

Paul F · Feb 19, 2006

Drop the strut

I think it is a lot easier to unbolt the strut and slide it off the prop shaft than it is to take the shaft off and the rudder. I know it is on my 33.

tmason · Feb 21, 2006

1.25"

Mine was 1x1.25. I replaced it last summer with the boat on the hard and the rudder and shaft out for a major overhaul. Don't mess with the shaft if you don't have to. The flange on the motor end of the shaft fought me to the last quarter-inch, which was many, many turns later on a gear puller.By contrast, there are only six bolts holding the strut to the boat. If you crawl into the quarterberth, you'll find an access panel to the space under the cockpit floor. The strut should clear the rudder if you manuever both, but I'm not 100 percent sure. You should be able to gauge how much more clearance the strut needs compared to the prop.I had to reseal the strut anyway. It had worked loose because the shaft was bent (because the engine mounts were shot.) I found one of the hose clamps on the stuffing box had rusted through. A slacker previous owner hadn't bothered with stainless!

HN · Feb 25, 2006

Try WD-40 anr or a little heat

I'm concerned with removing the strut since it will mess with the motor/shaft/strut alignment.....I did my bearing repair at the same time that I replaced the strut due to an unfortunate prop wrtp on the last day of the season in late October, (boy was that water cold in NY) and aligning the parts was a rayal pain in the @*!@%X ^$@ (If you get my drift)!!!!!I find that using wd-40 on the shaft plates for a week or so before the removal really works. At the time of removal I also have used a hair dryer (plumbers tourch would also work if you're really careful) to heat the shaft flanges just a little. This helps to wick up the WD-40 and exopands the flange so it come easily off. My grant PA taught me the heat trick. It saves a LOT of budted knuckles and broken bolts.

Steve Dion · Feb 25, 2006

Have the yard do it.

Scott:It is usually cheaper and easier for the yard to do it for you. They typically have a tool that can press the bearing out. Generally this will cost you about 1 - 1.5 hrs of labor.

h27 cutlass bearing

Cool_Change

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Misty-Q

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gary

gary

Cool_Change

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Cool_Change

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patrick

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patrick

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Howard

Paul F

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tmason

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HN

Steve Dion

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