H260 Rudder Line specs

May 17, 2017
48
Hunter H260 Prince George
Changing out my rudder blade, putting back the original foam core instead of the shorter poly blade. Thought I would replace all the lines ( lines 1, 2 and 3 below) while I was at it (the lines in there now don't look right). The H260 manual doesn't show the diameters, type or lengths?
upload_2019-3-10_21-23-16.png


Anyone know?
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
I could have told you tomorrow Chuck as I nearly have mine in bit's, just waiting for the WD40 to do it's job. The only thing is that my H260 has not got the sort of Becket type pulley block ( with the eye connected either side of the pulley block).
Line 2 is connected as per the diagram, the Line 3 eye is connected to the bushing pin in the top of the rudder stock which then comes down and around the pulley and back up to the cleat. Whether there was a mod done I'm not sure but we are different. The other thing is that my Line 1 does not have a pulley block, and it doesn't help that the diagram at the top stock is very poor.
I think the best thing here is . . . . . . HELP Dave please
 
May 17, 2017
48
Hunter H260 Prince George
Thanks for the reply GB. Mine did not come with the inner pully block either, could be why it is so difficult to pull down the rudder all the way? I ordered a small Becket block to see if I can install the same system as shown. I don't know how to splice in the eyes so I'm going to try to attach them with a couple of small D-shackels and a knot, hope there is room? I'll let you know if it works.

Chuck
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
Thanks for the reply GB. Mine did not come with the inner pully block either, could be why it is so difficult to pull down the rudder all the way? I ordered a small Becket block to see if I can install the same system as shown. I don't know how to splice in the eyes so I'm going to try to attach them with a couple of small D-shackels and a knot, hope there is room? I'll let you know if it works.

Chuck
When I ordered the new line I got them to put an eye in either end. I ordered a 6 metre length (near enough 20 feet in your money) and this worked out plenty to replace all the needed rudder lines.
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
gb graham;

Post a photo of the internal block that you have that came out of the rudder post.
CD, I can't send you a picture of the pulley block because it would mean stripping it all down again. The two lines (rudder line 3) on the left go around the pulley block which I would say was around 32-35 mm. 1"1/4 ish.
As you can see one end is anchored on the tiller attaching bolt and the other is the downhaul line that goes to the cow horn cleat on the tiller . Then rudder line 2 goes from the pulley attaching eye and attaches to the rudder. The one on the right is the uphaul (rudder line 1) but with no pulley block.
Obviously this does not tally with the diagram but I am 99% sure this has been done since new, so I'm presuming there has been a mod done somewhere down the line?

IMG_20190408_150017.jpg
 
Apr 8, 2013
205
Hunter 260 Nanaimo
If you look at the mod section , the micro block is a worthwhile mod .
Add the micro quick release block as well.
As for line length, its a bit of trail and error best done on the trailer.
You need the two blocks as far apart that still fit between the rudder head and the top rudder bolt.
 
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Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
Thank you for the heads up on this, but at the moment I don't really have a problem with getting the rudder down. The boat is on a swinging mooring and once down it's down for the season.
 
Apr 11, 2014
97
Hunter 260 Lake Lanier
Out of curiosity, why are you going back to the original rudder? Our original rudder is starting to crack at the head so I was thinking of replacing it with the HDPE blade.

I did do the downhaul mod MaxinCalgary suggested. It is well worth it. But, if you leave it down, maybe not worth the time. I hated getting my foot wet and balancing off of the end of the stern to push it down while pulling up on the downhaul. With the 4:1 setup in the mod. A pretty light pull is all that's required.
 
May 17, 2017
48
Hunter H260 Prince George
Out of curiosity, why are you going back to the original rudder? Our original rudder is starting to crack at the head so I was thinking of replacing it with the HDPE blade.

I did do the downhaul mod MaxinCalgary suggested. It is well worth it. But, if you leave it down, maybe not worth the time. I hated getting my foot wet and balancing off of the end of the stern to push it down while pulling up on the downhaul. With the 4:1 setup in the mod. A pretty light pull is all that's required.
Out of curiosity, why are you going back to the original rudder? Our original rudder is starting to crack at the head so I was thinking of replacing it with the HDPE blade.

I did do the downhaul mod MaxinCalgary suggested. It is well worth it. But, if you leave it down, maybe not worth the time. I hated getting my foot wet and balancing off of the end of the stern to push it down while pulling up on the downhaul. With the 4:1 setup in the mod. A pretty light pull is all that's required.
The poly blade on there now is about 5" shorter than the original. I'm hoping I'll better turning repose and better boat balance with the original longer rudder. I'll find out this summer if I just wasted my time or not.
 
May 17, 2017
48
Hunter H260 Prince George
If you look at the mod section , the micro block is a worthwhile mod .
Add the micro quick release block as well.
As for line length, its a bit of trail and error best done on the trailer.
You need the two blocks as far apart that still fit between the rudder head and the top rudder bolt.
Where is the "mods section" is it on this site, could you send me the link? I like the idea of adding a second block attached to the bushing at the top, should make it real easy to deploy. I'm also going to install a quick release cam cleat to lock it down with.
 
May 17, 2017
48
Hunter H260 Prince George
Thought I would follow up with this thread. I changed out the rudder blade and the rudder control lines, adding a two blocks system inside the rudder post, big difference! No more wet feet lowering the rudder, Thanks guys. I just used single blocks instead of the doubles shown on the link JW sent but it works just fine (even learned to splice my first eye). I don't know why there was no block in there when I bought the boat, just a direct line to the rudder? Maybe the previous owner changed out the line and couldn't be bothered (there is a bit of fiddle farting around to get everything to fit right but it is definitely worth it).
Chuck
 
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Apr 11, 2014
97
Hunter 260 Lake Lanier
Thought I would follow up with this thread. I changed out the rudder blade and the rudder control lines, adding a two blocks system inside the rudder post, big difference! No more wet feet lowering the rudder, Thanks guys. I just used single blocks instead of the doubles shown on the link JW sent but it works just fine (even learned to splice my first eye). I don't know why there was no block in there when I bought the boat, just a direct line to the rudder? Maybe the previous owner changed out the line and couldn't be bothered (there is a bit of fiddle farting around to get everything to fit right but it is definitely worth it).
Chuck
Any update on the stock rudder vs. the HDPE one? I'm getting ready to order a replacement for mine so I thought I'd check in to see if you could notice a difference.