H26 trailer rebuild

[Doug J]

I'm in the process of restoring my 1994 H26 trailer. One of the things I want to do is replace the wood bunks as they are soft. The 2x8 bunks have a pretty good bend to them, and I'm concerned about making that bend without cracking the wood. Does anyone have experience with replacing the bunks? Any recommendations? I was thinking of using pressure treated pine, or perhaps that faux decking material. Any advise will be appreciated.

Thanks
Doug

 

[VT Fitz]

I'm an interested party to this thread too! After I launched my '93 23.5 this spring, I walked on the keel support and heard a crack. I don't think it was my knees..

Being right on top of ever aspect of my life, I've done nothing about it, so now I think it would be wise to replace it this week before I pull Grasshopper next weekend.

I haven't taken a closer look at it yet, but my instinct was to go with PT pine.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

1994 was the first model year the 26 came out. Pressure treated wood is used and is more forgiving. Wheather pine or hardwood, I would go with that vs. the other. As for the keel tray, I would use treated hard wood if available and that is more likely to be firmer than pine. I Would start at the front and go backwards to the rear when putting on so it will conform.

 

[Doug J]

Okay - Thanks Crazy Dave.
I thought about soaking a 2x8 first. Looking at the bend of the bunks on my trailer now, seams like if I try to bend a new board, it either won't bend like that or might crack. But I'll give it a go. Looks like a tricky proposition.

 

[justsomeguy]

If you elongate the holes on the bunks for the through-bolts, it will allow for a greater range of flex.

 

[Doug J]

I'm continuing with a full restoration of my 1994 H26 trailer. I have all of the parts I need to do a SS brake conversion, except for one thing, I can't find a supplier for, the 10 ft flexible brake hose. I read Pat Adam's write up in the mod's section of the restoration he did. He mentions he used 1/4 stainless braid, ID dimension 3/16 made of Teflon. Pat if you read this can you tell me where you were able to buy that?
Does anyone know where I can order a 10 ft flexible brake hose?

 

[VT Fitz]

To provide an epilogue to my earlier post in this thread, I did replace the keel support & pulled the boat for the season Columbus Weekend.

When I tore apart the keel support, which was covered with indoor/outdoor carpet, I found it was 3/4" plywood. Two pieces 7 1/4" wide by 7' long. Not expecting to find 1x8 PT boards anywhere easily, I purchased 3/4" PT plywood. I also purchased cheap ($3.25/sq yd) indoor/outdoor carpet.

My side bunks seem to be ok, so I didn't mess with them.

 

[Doug J]

I'm doing all the work with the boat still on the trailer. I have removed everything except the bunk supports. The frame is being held up with 4 jack stands. I cleaned the rust off the axles with an abrasive wheel and wire brush. I then applied some Rustoleum rust converter followed by a thick coat of Rustoleum professional. Looks pretty good, should last many more years.

The frame doesn't have any rust, but it's dull looking as you would expect a 21 year old trailer to look. So, this coming weekend I plan to spray the entire frame with Rustoleum cold galvanizing compound, to give it a fresh look.

I need to find the correct 10ft brake line hose, which is required for the tongue extension.

 

[twalker H260]

Where is your flex hose positioned on the trailer? 10' seems long based on my recollection of the length on the 260 trailer. On the 260 it's hard line to half way in the triangle on the port rail between first crossmember and where the port and starboard rails join at the tongue extension tube. From there it goes to the aft end of the extension tube and joins a hard line running inside the extension tube going forward to a smaller flex line coming out of the extension tube and mounting to aft end of brake actuator.

You should be able to have a flex line of whatever length you need made up at a truck brake shop or almost anywhere that deals with industrial hydraulics.

If you need a diagram let me know.

 

[Doug J]

Sounds like the older H26 trailers may have been done differently. I have removed the old rotten rubber hose from my trailer it is 10' long.

Here's a link Pat Adams posted showing his restoration, it's the same thing I'm doing.
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=15&aid=7331&mn=26

You're probably right I'll have to get one made, or buy the hose with connectors I put on making it myself. I just figured I'd find it available somewhere.

 

[Rick Webb]

No need for a long hose install a brake line quick disconnect and not have all that extra stuff flopping around

 

[Doug J]

No need for a long hose install a brake line quick disconnect and not have all that extra stuff flopping around

Good idea Rick, I didn't think of that. I didn't even know there is quick disconnects for brake lines.

 

[Fred]

Interesting post... The PO must have removed the flexible hose. I always wondered how the trailer extension would work with the rigid brake tubing installed. How many of you actually use the tongue extension?

What is the black cylindrical device in the pictures? (Tie down?)

 

[Kermit]

I *might* extend my trailer if I had a flexible or disconnectable brake line. The ramp at our club is pretty much perfect for not having to extend the trailer. It would be nice for unknown ramps, though.

 

[woodster]

do these brake actuators not have a backing lock out feature on them ?

 

[Kermit]

Mine automatically locks out the brakes when backing. It can get really fun on a steep slippery ramp.

 

[Rick Webb]

I've never seen an actuator on a boat trailer that did not lock out. Some are even electronic so that when your reverse lights are on a solenoid disrupts the actuation of the trailer brakes

 

[Doug J]

The backup solenoid/valve activates automatically when the tow vehicle is put into reverse. It does not allow the actuator to engage the brake while backing uphill.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/dico...ofExCqCn3qCoK1o5zu_j2jKFqqbeoelQwMaAraU8P8HAQ

I've decided I will replace the long hose to allow the tongue to be extended. I agree with Kermit, it will be nice to be able to extend the tongue if needed on those unknown ramps.

 

[Doug J]

Progress So far:
1) All the hardware except for the bunks and supports have been removed.
The axles have be cleaned of rust the best I could with a grinder, wire wheel and Emery Cloth. I then applied Rustoleum Rust Reformer, to hopefully neutralize any remaining rust, followed by a top coat of high gloss enamel.
2) I have cleaned and refinished the main trailer structure with Cold Galvanizing Compound.
3) The fenders, bow stand, guide posts etc., have been refinished the same way with Cold Galvanizing Compound.
4) I applied two additional coats of Rustoleum to the new leaf springs.

 

[Doug J]

Almost done:
The trailer is back together. All nuts and bolts have been replaced with SS. The U=bolts holding the axles are galvanized. I was able to get a 10ft braided SS brake hose made for the tongue extension. I'll still need to work on the bunks and supports when I have the boat off the trailer. In addition to the SS disk brake conversion, with SS brake lines and new actuator, I installed new led lights and wiring, winch strap bow roller, etc. The only thing I'm not too comfortable with is the axles. Even though I removed most of the rust, and used Rustoleum Rust Reformer as a primer, with 3 coats of enamel, they will probably rust again. I wish I could have afforded new galvanized axles, but I believe the old ones will last a long time.