I have a line on the back of my mast that looks right for the topping lift, but it just ends with the end of the line. No snap shackle, block, or whatever. So far, I just tie it around one of the 3 sheaves on the aft end of the boom, which works OK, but it seems like there should be some way to adjust the topping lift more easily than to stand on the seat and tie the line shorter or longer. Kind of crazy if it's a bit rough. What are those 3 sheaves for? I have the outhaul rigged on one, but what's the factory rig for the other two? On another note, when I first launched and filled the ballast tank, there was a water noise when I walked on the cabin sole, like there was air in the top of the tank and the sole is flexible enough to make it splash. Pretty loud if I jumped up and down gently. After a few weeks in the water and some sailing and heeling, the noise is a lot less. Does the tank "burp" the air out as the boat moves? It it normal for the cabin sole to be that flexible? SHould I open the bottom and let more water in now?
- Status
My Water Problem
Unless the ballast plug is leaking or was loose when you filled the tank you should not have water under the floor. When we first had our H26 we had a leak near the base of the compression post under the table. We fixed it by applying 3m 5200 around and under the steel plate that is visible where the compression post exits the floor. To remove the water you have to sponge it out from the little round inspection cover in the floor to the starboard of the steps. Sort of a poor design if you ask me. I always used a topping lift line with a clip snap tied to the end and just clipped it to the end of the boom. If you leave enough slack it has very little affect on sail shape and you do not have to unclip very often. Hope that helps.
Unless the ballast plug is leaking or was loose when you filled the tank you should not have water under the floor. When we first had our H26 we had a leak near the base of the compression post under the table. We fixed it by applying 3m 5200 around and under the steel plate that is visible where the compression post exits the floor. To remove the water you have to sponge it out from the little round inspection cover in the floor to the starboard of the steps. Sort of a poor design if you ask me. I always used a topping lift line with a clip snap tied to the end and just clipped it to the end of the boom. If you leave enough slack it has very little affect on sail shape and you do not have to unclip very often. Hope that helps.
Topping Lift
Fred, When I boat my boat the only thing holding the boom up were the lazy jacks. So, I dropped the mast tied a line on a top fitting ran the line down through the third pulley in the boom and came out the back end facing the mast. I tie the topping lift line to a cleat on the mast. Yes, I have to go forward to adjust the line. The other pulleys are taken up by the outhaul and my reefing line. I suppose if you had two reefing points on your sail you could use the other pulley for that. Personally, I think I'd rather put in a solid boom vang on the boom and get rid of the lines completely.Next year
Paul H 95 H26 Linda Belle
Fred, When I boat my boat the only thing holding the boom up were the lazy jacks. So, I dropped the mast tied a line on a top fitting ran the line down through the third pulley in the boom and came out the back end facing the mast. I tie the topping lift line to a cleat on the mast. Yes, I have to go forward to adjust the line. The other pulleys are taken up by the outhaul and my reefing line. I suppose if you had two reefing points on your sail you could use the other pulley for that. Personally, I think I'd rather put in a solid boom vang on the boom and get rid of the lines completely.Next year
Paul H 95 H26 Linda Belle
Similar
Like Paul, my H23 has three sheaves at the aft end of the boom and a crude triple clutch at the mast end. I use one for an outhaul, one for reefing, and the middle one for the topping lift. I went to WM and bought a length of SS cable (1/8") with an eye and thimble in each end. The cable attaches at the rear of the masthead where there was a spare clevis pin and runs down to about a foot above the end of the boom. I connect a length of line with a bowline to the cable and run it through the boom to the clutch. Instant adjustable topping lift.
Like Paul, my H23 has three sheaves at the aft end of the boom and a crude triple clutch at the mast end. I use one for an outhaul, one for reefing, and the middle one for the topping lift. I went to WM and bought a length of SS cable (1/8") with an eye and thimble in each end. The cable attaches at the rear of the masthead where there was a spare clevis pin and runs down to about a foot above the end of the boom. I connect a length of line with a bowline to the cable and run it through the boom to the clutch. Instant adjustable topping lift.
Many thanks guys
That answers my questions. Do you leave the topping lift connected but slack when sailing? Does it chafe on the main? I don't have water in the space between the cabin sole and the tank top. There's hardly a space there when the boat's in the water and the ballast tank is full. The splashing sound is from the top of the ballst tank. It went away after some sailing, so I wonder if the tank had an air pocket that got filled as the boat moved. I do have the teak/plywood cabin sole insert, and it feels solid to walk on. Water ballast is new to me, and somewhat strange. I don't know what's normal, if you can call filling your boat with water normal in the first place. If I have the clutches on my boom, I haven't noticed them. That doesn't mean they're not there. I'll send a search party when I'm on the boat next. I seem to remember a single jam cleat for the outhaul. There's a triple clutch setup on the cabin top; Main halyard, jib halyard and centreboard.
That answers my questions. Do you leave the topping lift connected but slack when sailing? Does it chafe on the main? I don't have water in the space between the cabin sole and the tank top. There's hardly a space there when the boat's in the water and the ballast tank is full. The splashing sound is from the top of the ballst tank. It went away after some sailing, so I wonder if the tank had an air pocket that got filled as the boat moved. I do have the teak/plywood cabin sole insert, and it feels solid to walk on. Water ballast is new to me, and somewhat strange. I don't know what's normal, if you can call filling your boat with water normal in the first place. If I have the clutches on my boom, I haven't noticed them. That doesn't mean they're not there. I'll send a search party when I'm on the boat next. I seem to remember a single jam cleat for the outhaul. There's a triple clutch setup on the cabin top; Main halyard, jib halyard and centreboard.
Topping Lift
To answer your question: Yes and Yes If you have three sheaves at the aft boom end, I think you'll find you have three clutches (correct term is "line jam") at the front end. Yes the topping lift is slack but you have to keep the line jam on or when you lower the sail or the the boom will come down. That's one reason people go to a boomkicker or solid boomvang. I think chafe is only a problem if you are doing a LOT of sailing.
To answer your question: Yes and Yes If you have three sheaves at the aft boom end, I think you'll find you have three clutches (correct term is "line jam") at the front end. Yes the topping lift is slack but you have to keep the line jam on or when you lower the sail or the the boom will come down. That's one reason people go to a boomkicker or solid boomvang. I think chafe is only a problem if you are doing a LOT of sailing.
Eureka! I do have clutches in my boom!
Went down to the boat today and really looked at the forward end of the boom. Lo and Behold, there are three little clutches hidden on the bottom, with the jiffy reef line and outhaul coming out of two, and the third is empty. Now all I have to do is figure out how to run a line through the boom. Remove the ends? Is there a trick?
Went down to the boat today and really looked at the forward end of the boom. Lo and Behold, there are three little clutches hidden on the bottom, with the jiffy reef line and outhaul coming out of two, and the third is empty. Now all I have to do is figure out how to run a line through the boom. Remove the ends? Is there a trick?
BTW, George, thanks for the tip on the manual
I couldn't get your links to work, but I found I could download the whole manual from Hunter. The rigging detail you mentioned is there, plus lots of other good information.
I couldn't get your links to work, but I found I could download the whole manual from Hunter. The rigging detail you mentioned is there, plus lots of other good information.
Good time to ask about ramshead hooks
I'm not sure I have my main reefed properly. I have 2 ramshead hook prongs (at the same level on the mast, opposite one another just above the gooseneck). The main has a single reef grommet at that location. Do I choose one hook or the other or somehow hook the grommet over both "prongs"?
I'm not sure I have my main reefed properly. I have 2 ramshead hook prongs (at the same level on the mast, opposite one another just above the gooseneck). The main has a single reef grommet at that location. Do I choose one hook or the other or somehow hook the grommet over both "prongs"?
Reefing
Apparently the PO removed the topping lift line in the boom. Use either the reef line or the outhaul as a messenger line to run the new topping lift line through the boom. Or you could use a plumbers snake. The idea of having two rams hooks is that you can reef from either side. Some sails have a metal reef grommet point, others like mine have a cloth loop. Works the same. Only one hook is needed. Reef early -- you can always shake it out; putting a reef in during a blow is no fun and can be dangerous on most boats because it requires climbing up on the deck. Attaching a small block to the line coming from the top of the mast will make raising and lowering the boom easier. Sounds like you have not tried to reef your boat yet - Prectice it before you actually need it. Consider reefing before the winds exceep 15mp. Set it up before you leave the dock - you'll be suprised how well the boat sails with the reef tucked in. Learn to trim the headsail and main by reefing both. This is not something you want to learn to do in high winds. The H240/260 manual is courtesy of Jim Seamans a former H260 owner. I used a lot of his tips in learning about my boat.
Apparently the PO removed the topping lift line in the boom. Use either the reef line or the outhaul as a messenger line to run the new topping lift line through the boom. Or you could use a plumbers snake. The idea of having two rams hooks is that you can reef from either side. Some sails have a metal reef grommet point, others like mine have a cloth loop. Works the same. Only one hook is needed. Reef early -- you can always shake it out; putting a reef in during a blow is no fun and can be dangerous on most boats because it requires climbing up on the deck. Attaching a small block to the line coming from the top of the mast will make raising and lowering the boom easier. Sounds like you have not tried to reef your boat yet - Prectice it before you actually need it. Consider reefing before the winds exceep 15mp. Set it up before you leave the dock - you'll be suprised how well the boat sails with the reef tucked in. Learn to trim the headsail and main by reefing both. This is not something you want to learn to do in high winds. The H240/260 manual is courtesy of Jim Seamans a former H260 owner. I used a lot of his tips in learning about my boat.
centerbo26ard bolt
I was getting water in the bilge area and could not figure out the source. It turned out to be the bolt that holds the centerboard bracket to the boat's centerboard well that was stripped enough that I could not tighten it fully. The bolt slipped when I tried to snug it up and therefore allowed water to enter the boat, fortunately only when underway and only a gallon or two. I put the boat way up on stands while on the trailer, attached a new bolt to the bracket, applied 3M 5200, tightened it and problem solved. Cost me less than $20.00. Possibly could have installed new centerboard line at same time?
I was getting water in the bilge area and could not figure out the source. It turned out to be the bolt that holds the centerboard bracket to the boat's centerboard well that was stripped enough that I could not tighten it fully. The bolt slipped when I tried to snug it up and therefore allowed water to enter the boat, fortunately only when underway and only a gallon or two. I put the boat way up on stands while on the trailer, attached a new bolt to the bracket, applied 3M 5200, tightened it and problem solved. Cost me less than $20.00. Possibly could have installed new centerboard line at same time?
centerboard bolt
I was getting water in the bilge area and could not figure out the source. It turned out to be the bolt that holds the centerboard bracket to the boat's centerboard well that was stripped enough that I could not tighten it fully. The bolt slipped when I tried to snug it up and therefore allowed water to enter the boat, fortunately only when underway and only a gallon or two. I put the boat way up on stands while on the trailer, attached a new bolt to the bracket, applied 3M 5200, tightened it and problem solved. Cost me less than $20.00. Possibly could have installed new centerboard line at same time? (Correcting title typo)
I was getting water in the bilge area and could not figure out the source. It turned out to be the bolt that holds the centerboard bracket to the boat's centerboard well that was stripped enough that I could not tighten it fully. The bolt slipped when I tried to snug it up and therefore allowed water to enter the boat, fortunately only when underway and only a gallon or two. I put the boat way up on stands while on the trailer, attached a new bolt to the bracket, applied 3M 5200, tightened it and problem solved. Cost me less than $20.00. Possibly could have installed new centerboard line at same time? (Correcting title typo)
Centerboard
There is a detailed procedure with pictures on how to replace the centerboard on the H26 and H260 Knowledgebases. Go to: http://kb.sailboatowners.com/brand?model=20 If this link is broken, be patient, I'm sure it will get fixed.
There is a detailed procedure with pictures on how to replace the centerboard on the H26 and H260 Knowledgebases. Go to: http://kb.sailboatowners.com/brand?model=20 If this link is broken, be patient, I'm sure it will get fixed.
ballast tank
As I read through this I see that a number of you are new to this boat just as I am. I thought I would share an experience that may save some of you from a tragedy. George from Traverse City reminded to always shut the fill valve and to plug the air vent. Great advice! My friend in the dock next to me and me were giving rides one evening a few weeks ago to some non sailor friends from the club at our marina. We both have h26's. We both went out with full boatloads at the same time in the dark. after 15 minutes I looked and couldn't see my friend. I radioed and learned that he had gone back into the marina with ankle deep water in his cabin. He found that because of the additional weight in the boat he had become lower in the water and since he didn't have the valve closed and he had left the air vent out, water was pouring into the boat through the vent hole. He caught it in time luckily but it could have been a disaster at night. Good thing someone went down into the cabin.
As I read through this I see that a number of you are new to this boat just as I am. I thought I would share an experience that may save some of you from a tragedy. George from Traverse City reminded to always shut the fill valve and to plug the air vent. Great advice! My friend in the dock next to me and me were giving rides one evening a few weeks ago to some non sailor friends from the club at our marina. We both have h26's. We both went out with full boatloads at the same time in the dark. after 15 minutes I looked and couldn't see my friend. I radioed and learned that he had gone back into the marina with ankle deep water in his cabin. He found that because of the additional weight in the boat he had become lower in the water and since he didn't have the valve closed and he had left the air vent out, water was pouring into the boat through the vent hole. He caught it in time luckily but it could have been a disaster at night. Good thing someone went down into the cabin.
Thanks again George,
How do you get the line out the right hole in the boom if you use the outhaul or jiffy reef line for a messenger? I got the manual, as George said (I still can't get your links to work George) from the archives at the top of this site. What a great resource! Good advice to reef early. I learned that the hard way a couple of times. It seem so much easier to sit in the cockpit and hope for the best, until you have to go up on deck with waves washing over the boat, subdue the sail, and wonder what exactly you were thinking when you got involved with this sailing business. I will practice reefing, but I usually just drop the main and use jib alone if it pipes up. I've done it on the H26 several times already. Mostly out of laziness on an afternoon sail when we'll take it down in an hour anyway, but once when the breeze came up too much for the comfort of my crew. I had no Main and 1/3 of the jib unrolled in maybe 18 kts. Very gusty. The boat went pretty fast for that little bit of sail, and not bad to windward. Happy crew. I have sailed with jib alone on lots of other boats I've owned; Morgan 41, Catalina 27 and 38, Newport 30, a couple of Westerlies and a Vertue. Worked fine on all of them. I have also sailed most of those boats with a reefed main, but I wouldn't bother unless windward performance was important. Since weather helm increases with breeze, the boat balances well with the sail area forward as the wind increases. I have had no problem with lee helm unless I use jib alone in light air (less than 7 kts. because it's too much work to put up the main when there's wine to be poured and the world's problems to be solved.
How do you get the line out the right hole in the boom if you use the outhaul or jiffy reef line for a messenger? I got the manual, as George said (I still can't get your links to work George) from the archives at the top of this site. What a great resource! Good advice to reef early. I learned that the hard way a couple of times. It seem so much easier to sit in the cockpit and hope for the best, until you have to go up on deck with waves washing over the boat, subdue the sail, and wonder what exactly you were thinking when you got involved with this sailing business. I will practice reefing, but I usually just drop the main and use jib alone if it pipes up. I've done it on the H26 several times already. Mostly out of laziness on an afternoon sail when we'll take it down in an hour anyway, but once when the breeze came up too much for the comfort of my crew. I had no Main and 1/3 of the jib unrolled in maybe 18 kts. Very gusty. The boat went pretty fast for that little bit of sail, and not bad to windward. Happy crew. I have sailed with jib alone on lots of other boats I've owned; Morgan 41, Catalina 27 and 38, Newport 30, a couple of Westerlies and a Vertue. Worked fine on all of them. I have also sailed most of those boats with a reefed main, but I wouldn't bother unless windward performance was important. Since weather helm increases with breeze, the boat balances well with the sail area forward as the wind increases. I have had no problem with lee helm unless I use jib alone in light air (less than 7 kts. because it's too much work to put up the main when there's wine to be poured and the world's problems to be solved.
pulling lines thru the boom
I use a piece of soft steel wire, the kind they use for concrete forms. It's called tie wire and you can get a roll from any building supply place. I took the boom off the mast and held it so the gooseneck end was up and fed the wire down thru the boom. Keep any other lines in the boom tight so the wire doesn't wrap around them and feed the wire down the boom. Then I attatched a couple of feet of 1/8" cord to the wire and tape it to the line I want to pull with electrical tape. I overlap the 1/8 and the line about 8 inches. Tape it right at the start of the line and again at the end of the cord and pull it thru. This is how I got my reefing line to come out the top of the boom at the gooseneck for single line reefing.
I use a piece of soft steel wire, the kind they use for concrete forms. It's called tie wire and you can get a roll from any building supply place. I took the boom off the mast and held it so the gooseneck end was up and fed the wire down thru the boom. Keep any other lines in the boom tight so the wire doesn't wrap around them and feed the wire down the boom. Then I attatched a couple of feet of 1/8" cord to the wire and tape it to the line I want to pull with electrical tape. I overlap the 1/8 and the line about 8 inches. Tape it right at the start of the line and again at the end of the cord and pull it thru. This is how I got my reefing line to come out the top of the boom at the gooseneck for single line reefing.
Links to the Hunter 240/260 Manual
Jim Seamans put a number of manuals on his website: Here's the link: http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/ManualH260/Contents.htm You are looking for pages 44A & 44B
Jim Seamans put a number of manuals on his website: Here's the link: http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/ManualH260/Contents.htm You are looking for pages 44A & 44B
Water In Bilge
Nelson's comment about water coming up through the vent hole got me thinking: The H260 is certified for 8 people or 840kg and will sink 56mm or 2.2" at full displacement of 6676 lbs. I've never had more than 4 people on board. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Maybe something else was going on. Recently a boat on our dock filled with water and almost sunk because of "syphoning through the sink". Not sure how that works but it was clear he did not have his thru-hull closed.
Nelson's comment about water coming up through the vent hole got me thinking: The H260 is certified for 8 people or 840kg and will sink 56mm or 2.2" at full displacement of 6676 lbs. I've never had more than 4 people on board. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Maybe something else was going on. Recently a boat on our dock filled with water and almost sunk because of "syphoning through the sink". Not sure how that works but it was clear he did not have his thru-hull closed.
george
When my 260 is loaded down for a long trip water will come in thru the vent plug if left open. The water level is about 1/4 " above the top of the vent fully loaded.
When my 260 is loaded down for a long trip water will come in thru the vent plug if left open. The water level is about 1/4 " above the top of the vent fully loaded.
- Status