H26 Rudder Creep

[BrianW]

Hi All: I have a problem with my H26 original rudder creeping up at the most inopportune times. I've cruised through the archives and so far like the breakable pin solution. Could anyone advise me exactly where the holes should be drilled? What size? Any photos? How do I handle the hole through the rudder? Will water infiltrate into the core of the rudder? Thanks, BrianW

 

[Chris]

fixed my problem

Brian we had the same problem when we first got our h26. after researching it I came up with replacing the rubber washers/spacers inside of the rudder housing and tightening down the large wing nut, just enough so as to still allow kick-up if we bottomed out. So far replacing the rubber inside has worked great. happy sailing Chris

 

[Rich]

I've got the solution...

Brian,I have an absolutely simple solution to your problem. I fought the same problem for to long, then searched the archives and never found anything that really caught my attention. I've been able to put all the frustration behind me for under $20. This system hasn't slipped a quarter inch ever. I'll be at the lake tomorrow and take pictures for you. Watch for the posting.

 

[Dave D 94 H26]

Hey Rich

what happens if you run aground or hit a submerged obstacle? What if you forget to uncleat it when hauling out on the trailer? Can the rudder kick up with that cleat? If not, your "solution" could cost alot more than the inconvenience of resetting the rudder. I have another issue along the same line: It seams almost every time I put in and pull the line to drop the rudder, it has slipped off to the side of the rudder and gets bound up. Anyone else have that prob and worked out a solution?

 

[Rich]

dave D

Dave,It's not a foolproof system, just one that works. You still have to be aware of your surroundings. Running aground isn't an issue just release the line the keel will hit before the rudder giving you enough notice. Hitting something submerged would bring damage regardless of the system. Also I raise my rudder and motor before I pull the trailer out. Your line shouldn't slip with a fairlead guiding it even if you don't use the cleat. Just a thought.

 

[B Noble]

I use a light line with low breaking strength

On my H23 the rubber is slightly lower then the wing keel. If (when) I get into shoals the rudder downhaul is a sacrificial line and will break before damaging the rudder. For a quick fix a knot at the break point until I can restring the line that is purposely extra long. I get about two seasons out of a five foot section.Bob S/V Miss Lisa

 

[Michael15707]

Pin

I use the Hunter pins -- no problems.

 

[alan]

I like the shear pins.

Don't have a pic, but drill high up out of the water through the Al plates and rudder stock WITH THE RUDDER AS FAR DOWN AS POSSIBLE. You want the area out of the water and accessable from the cockpit. I didn't, but as you pointed out, one should then drill the rudder stock wider, fill with epoxy and then drill through with the origional bit. What size, I forgot, BUT, I use old papermate pens (the thin ones), gut them and then core with chopsticks. Wood alone chafes and swells, hollow plastic too weak and I go through too many at $5 for two. Works great and cheap!If you use the line and cleat, there is a way that will allow the line to release. In shallow waters, like where I sail, the danger would be from ripping out the rudder at the transom, not just damaging the rudder. With properly designed (even homemade) pins, they break and the rudder is fine. Hit a rock and you may have minor easily repairable damage. alan

 

[BrianW]

Thanks All...

Thanks all for some great input. Alan, I especially appreciate the detail on the pin system. BrianW