H26 Mast Head-sail Double Sheave Box

[Doug J]

Anybody know where I can get a new one of these?

This is a double sheave box that the jib halyard exits from.

It has a socket to connect the head-stay stem-ball to.

I don't know if this is a specialized part for the H26 or not, but I have not been able to find any online.

I have an ISOMAT mast.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Isomat was part of Kenyon Isomat located in Charlotte, NC. It was purchased by Z spar which did not last long. The company reinvented itself into Charleston Spar and later into Sparcraft. The forum store cannot get those parts and Sparcraft from what I heard do not like to deal with small parts. Rig Rite is the appropriate place to go for parts. Doug J thank you for identifying your mast which saved a lot of time responding

Ok folks. Help this fellow where to find Rig Rite.

 

[Doug J]

Thanks Dave. I know about Rig Rite. I checked their site and did not see one of these. I will send them an email with pics, to see if they can help me.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Doug, keep me posted.

 

[Doug J]

Fantastic, Rig-Rite has it, with a little more looking on their site I found it. I really thought this part would be hard to find!

Rig-Rite has detailed information to help identify the mast. I believe this is the mast I have.

They also identify a lot of other parts that fit that mast.

Dave, as you can see they refer to the Isomat mast as Sparcraft.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Z Spar left in the middle of the night and that specific name never came back to the U.S. although from what I know U. S. Spars is owned by the same folks as Z Spar. Kenyon Isomat reinvented itself into Charleston Spar. Not sure about Charleston Spar renaming itself or bought out by someone but at least you know where tto get it sir. Thank you for advising.

 

[Doug J]

So, I received my new double jib box from Rig-Rite. My old one was badly corroded, one sheave wouldn't turn and the PO tried to drill through the aluminum casting breaking part of it.

When I got my boat it only had one jib halyard installed.
My question is what would be the use for 2 jib halyards?
Since the sheaves are side-by-side below the head-stay one would not be used for a spinnaker would it. Could I use one for a Spinnaker? It would cross over on top of the very top of the head-stay, but would it be okay to do that?

Also correction to previous post for other H26 or 260 owners with a Sparcraft mast. The correct mast is:

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Doug, could have been for a spinnaker or spinnaker pole but for the spinnaker, I would suggest that the spinnaker line turning block always be above the forestay. As for the extra block on the double could be used for raising a sock I think

 

[Jackdaw]

When I got my boat it only had one jib halyard installed.
My question is what would be the use for 2 jib halyards?

Two reasons.

Racers never like to sail 'bare headed'. Its a speed thing.

Having two jib halyards allows you to hoist a new sail with the old one still up. This obviously requires that the boat has a twin-groove system like a tuff-luff installed.

With the same setup, some cruisers will sail wing-on-wing with TWO headsails out, and no main. Nice trick if you can pull it off.

 

[Doug J]

Jackdaw, I was hoping you would respond, I knew you'd have the answer. Very unlikely I'll be doing fancy racing stuff like that. I don't have a twin-groove luff anyway lol.

I think a second jib halyard will be useful to me though. I have a Schaefer Snapfurl CF-700. I need to use the halyard to hoist the jib, no internal halyard like with a CDI FF2 furler. Sometimes I would like to leave the jib furled and step the mast, but I can't with only one halyard, because it needs to used for the mast raising system. The second halyard will give me that option.

Would it be a complete bad idea to try and fly an asymmetrical spinnaker with the second halyard, crossing over the head-stay at the very top, in light air?

 

[Jackdaw]

Would it be a complete bad idea to try and fly an asymmetrical spinnaker with the second halyard, crossing over the head-stay at the very top, in light air?

Normally I'd say NO to that type of operation, but looking hard at the location of the halyard exit relative to the forestay end fitting (first pic), and the smoothness of the fitting I'd give it a qualified OK. I would look regularly for wear of the halyard near the shackle.

Use a halyard knot so the shackle and knot can be brought tight in against the box.

 

[Doug J]

Doug, could have been for a spinnaker or spinnaker pole but for the spinnaker, I would suggest that the spinnaker line turning block always be above the forestay. As for the extra block on the double could be used for raising a sock I think

Oh I see, yeah it could be used for a sock. I don't use one though because I have the sunbrella that wraps around.

 

[Doug J]

Use a halyard knot so the shackle and knot can be brought tight in against the box.

Sounds like good advice. I have an asymmetrical spinnaker and it would be nice to have the option to use it.

I had to look up halyard knot


I can see how that would allow it to get in close to the sheave.

 

[Jackdaw]

Sounds like good advice. I have an asymmetrical spinnaker and it would be nice to have the option to use it.

I had to look up halyard knot
View attachment 142011

I can see how that would allow it to get in close to the sheave.

Yea, often the thickness of a core splice will stop the halyard from going all the way up, and the shackle 'flops' around 2-3 inches from the fitting. The knot fixes that. We use that knot on all halyards.

 

[Doug J]

I was gonna order 72' 5/16" yacht braid, with a spliced thimble. I think I can save some cash and skip the spliced thimble. Just find a good price and buy off the spool.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Jackdaw; ;Your thoughts on the double sheave box. Could the second sheave be used for a spinnaker sock here? Thank you sir.

 

[Jackdaw]

I was gonna order 72' 5/16" yacht braid, with a spliced thimble. I think I can save some cash and skip the spliced thimble. Just find a good price and buy off the spool.

One other thing.

Make 100% sure that your 'spin halyard' ALWAYS goes over the TOP of the forestay when setting up the spin. If it goes under, it wraps around the stay when you gybe, and pulls on it awkwardly.

This is always true for spin halyards no matter where they exit, but can be harder to see (and detect when you do it wrong) when the halyard is close to the stay.

 

[Jackdaw]

Jackdaw; ;Your thoughts on the double sheave box. Could the second sheave be used for a spinnaker sock here? Thank you sir.

Of course.

 

[Doug J]

One other thing.

Make 100% sure that your 'spin halyard' ALWAYS goes over the TOP of the forestay when setting up the spin. If it goes under, it wraps around the stay when you gybe, and pulls on it awkwardly..

Copy that!