View attachment 159091 Has anyone put blocks on mast foot to control out haul topping lift and reef line the original set up seems difficult to control without going to mast. would a couple of these work?
Just to be sure take a photo of mast base. My thought is no due to metal but send me a private message for better suggestions and if you use them, then I would ask to post under boat info boat mods. Also describe topping lift and size of line.
For boats remaining in the water, a boom kicker is a good option but some take a lot of time taking apart/disconnecting for those who are trailering their boats a lot to include your boat, Hunter 26.
I use to supply a small boat boom vang fitting pictured attached to the back of the boom.
This is a Ronstan V-Jam cleat series 29. The topping lift line (Hunter 260 had a wire coated topping lift with an attached turning block on it) much different on the Hunter 26 if recalling correctly. I would schackle it to the end of the boom but some folks preferred using a boom bail back there of course using a twist shackle. I believe the topping lift was a quarter inch size. I would run the line around the top turning block entering close to the top of the Jam and then around the bottom turning block exiting into the Jam. You can raise and lower quickly the boom in the cockpit. To make sure it did not come out of the block to prevent the boom hitting the boat or anyone, I put a quick knot in it. This was an easy way. The other way is to leave the line for the topping lift inside the mast with a permanent knot at the lever and then somehow attach the block to it at the end of the boom right where it comes out of the boom.
As for reefing, it was a pain going up front to use that darn lever. You could do a single line reef.
The attached photo shows a fixed curved base cheek block by Schaeffer. There are others but the base plate needs to be curved with a turning block being large enough for the reefing line. If you are right handed, I would start with eye strap affixed to the forward starboard part of the boom. You might go thru where forward cap of the boom is inserted into the boom spar that attaches to the mast, if so, figure on a short wood ss screw or bolt or pop rivet for that length. You do not want it to go any further in so it will not interfere with the lines inside the boom. You will need two turning cheek blocks with one at the front of the boom and the other at the rear of the boom on the port side of the boom. The line will run from the eye strap thru the forward reef point of the mainsail to the forward turning block on port side back to the rear port turning block and then thru the rear reef point on the mainsail and back to a new cleat on the starboard side rear boom. Make sure the rear turning block and cleat are aft of the rear reef point with mainsail in the down position for reefing.
If anyone can show this on a diagram for Jimmy, please post it. Thanks. I hope this helps as everything is at the end of the boom. Great set up for trailering.
Jimmy... With all due respect to other posters, the boom kicker on my H26 requires removal of one split ring to dismount. Adding it was one of my better mods. Eliminates a (external) halyard which can slap in the wind when anchored, requires tending under sail and needs to be managed when raising/lowering the mast.
Here is a pic of my Boomkicker installation. The bottom pin can be removed and then the whole assembly slides off the track on the boom. I'm surprised by how effective and stiff this device is. It can easily support a boom tent if desired.
In my files I have the installation instructions for Model K0800 which according to the website would be the correct size for boats from 25' - 27'. The installation tools (drill bit, tap) and screws all came in the kit.