H26 Aluminum Rudder Head Corrosion

[BrianW]

On my H26, the aluminum rudder head sits about 3 inches (without crew onboard) into water at my salt water slip in Pensacola, FL. The rudder head is the aluminum plates that the rudder is sandwiched between and the tiller is attached to. Two years ago, I had to replace these heads because they corroded through below the waterline. No corrosion above the waterline. For the replacement heads, I took all kinds of measures to correct many of the problems associated with disimilar metals, etc. I'm now getting some pitting on the surface replacement rudder head after only 2 years. Before I go back to the drawing board with more aggressive anti-corrosion measures, it occurred to me that the rudder head was only corroding below the waterline. My question: should the bottom of the rudder head even be normally in the water? Could I simply re-ballast the boat to get the rudder head out of the water? Thanks, BrianW

 

[Pat Hooyman]

Raise the plates

On my 1998 H26 the water came up to the pintle/gudgeon in the transom - the bottom of the rudder plate extends below this and began to corrode when I had the boat in Texas salt water. I raised the plates by getting flat aluminum plating about 2 by 4 inches and 1/4 inch thick and placing it on either side of the black rubber spacer between the large rudder plates at the pintles. Hopefully this picture of the lower pintle will explain.The These plates also reinforce the rudder from stress cracks around the rubber pintle blocks so I also put them on the upper pintle.

The sailing and steering performance was unchanged by this.

 

[Rick Webb]

I Adjusted the Weight

On my 23.5 I moved batteriesand other stuff forward and added 50#s in the bow.

 

[BrianW]

Where?

Rick, thanks for your reply. What type of ballast did you use and where in the bow did you put it? Where did you move your batteries? BrianW

 

[Rick Webb]

On the 23.5

There is a locker in the v berth I moved them to there. I also moved the tool boax and anything else heavy as far forward as I could. The extra weight was added to a foamed in space under a screwed in cover under the v berth it was a couple of slugs from an inert Maverick missle they are used to keep the weight and balance in same as a live unit for load training and to maintain the flight carachteristics when on the aircraft. Some weights from weight set would work just as well.

Moving weight works better than adding weight I had to add the weight after I added the stern rail seats.

My guess is it will be easier on the 26 as there is more stuff and more space to move things to, then as it is longer so there is more of a moment when weight is moved.

 

[sea_casper]

H26 Rudder Replacement

I had erosion on my H26 rudder plates around all bolt holes. The rudder friction adjustment bolt especially.

My solution was to spend the bucks and get the IdaSailer Rudder System, the rudder plates are Stainless and much smaller, the rudder goes up and done easily, the Rudder Kick up function needs no adjustment, rudder creep undersail is a thing of the past. The wood tiller tilts all the way up and out of the way, when anchored at the dock.

 

[VT Fitz]

More pix, pls?

Casper, do you have more pix of the new rig? I'd especially like to see the tiller in the up position.

Thx,
Kevin

 

[sea_casper]

H26 tiller

Here's a picture of tiller up.
Rudder is rotated toward engine.
Here is link to Pat Adam's KnowledgeBase article which has pictures
http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_mtree&task=viewlink&link_id=6410&Itemid=257

 

[VT Fitz]

Thanks, Casper.

I think we're probably going to upgrade the o/b for next season, but an Ida Sailor rudder is extremely tempting too! I'd love getting the tiller out of the cockpit at anchor.

 

[Rick Webb]

To get the tiller out of the cockpit i put a wing nut on the bolt and can get it out of there altogether

 

[BrianW]

Mission Accomplished

I filled empty kitty litter plastic jugs with dry beach sand (25 pounds each) and placed them in the forward cabin locker. I also cleaned out the junk from the aft bunk area and port lazarrette. It took 200 pounds worth of forward ballast to get the rudder plates out of the water. My guess it will sail better to boot. Thanks for all of your help! BrianW

 

[nelson brinckerhoff]

My 1996 H26 upper rudder heads are flexing under load and I would like to strengthen them or replace. Where did you get new plates?

I had ordered an Idasailor entire rudder but found it too small, blade was about 30% smaller than original and not acceptable in my opinion on an already tender boat. I returned it immediately. I want a solid original size rudder upper and lower. I do have a replacement lower Idasailor blade which I love, but they don't make it any more.

 

[sea_casper]

Nelson as you know, size of a rudder is not the only determination of effectiveness; rudder shape, thickness, aspect ratio, placement, etc., all play a role.

Wth the stock rudder system, twisting of the rudder plates under load, definately reduced its effectiveness, as did the rudder position change (creep) during a sail under more demanding conditions. I never could get the wing nut tight enough to prevent it.

I have found the IdaSailer Rudder System in actual use to be superior to the stock Hunter rudder system, Tiller forces are lighter in stronger wind conditions compared to the stock rudder and its response is more precise.

The real plus is not having to hang over the stern to reposition the rudder and retighten the wing nut in demanding sailing conditions.

Those who want a stock rudder check the gear ads for my old one.

 

[VT Fitz]

To get the tiller out of the cockpit i put a wing nut on the bolt and can get it out of there altogether

Thanks for the idea, Rick. I'd be a bit concerned about losing wing nuts or bolts overboard when fiddling with it, but a supply of hardware for the clumsy would surely be cheaper than a new tiller/rudder assembly!

 

[BrianW]

Source of Rudder Head Replacement

Nelson, I found a source for my aluminum rudder head replacement on eBay. They did an excellent job. I am sorry, but I couldn't find the actual contact phone number or email address. I have just sent a message to the supplier through eBay to contact me. The supplier custom cut the plates based on a pattern I supplied them by tracing the originals. Looking back, I probably would have had them replaced with stainless steel, which would have weighed about 10 pounds more. The eBay user ID for the person was Anthony8045. I'll post the supplier's contact info when I receive it. BrianW

 

[Rick Webb]

I drilled an extra hole and put the spare right there next to the original. I also drilled the bolt and put a ring on it so it would not rattle off.

 

[Rick Webb]

Re: Mission Accomplished

Might have been easier to get one of them Alabama girls to go sailing with you and keep her up on the bow.

 

[VT Fitz]

Like a figurehead...

Might have been easier to get one of them Alabama girls to go sailing with you and keep her up on the bow.

Like a figurehead, right? Bosoms bared? :naughty:

 

[VT Fitz]

You're amazing Rick

I drilled an extra hole and put the spare right there next to the original. I also drilled the bolt and put a ring on it so it would not rattle off.

Wow, you gave this a lot of thought & effort!

I love stealing other people's great ideas...

 

[Rick Webb]

Re: You're amazing Rick

I just always think:

How would the laziest person around (usually me) do it?

And

How would a bumble brained idiot (me again) screw it up the worst?

Then go from there.