Has anyone added extra ballast to the bottom of the H23 wing keel? I am thinking of adding 200/300 lbs of ballast by bolting a 3" thick steel plate right on the bottom of the keel. I have a pattern of the outline to have the plate cut. Boat is kept in fresh water only so electrolysis should not be a big issue. I plan to bolt the plate up into the bottom of the existing keel with a Permitex gasket seal between the two. Would the Iron and steel eat each other? Do any of you think the extra weight would over stress the keel bolts, or hull? My objective is to have a more stable boat that is not over powered quite so easily. Pros??? Cons??? Lets have um guys and gals! Scott Davis H23 "No Alibi"
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R. Wheeler
Extra weight
I considered doing something similar to my 23, I was going to mold lead pieces to fit on tip of the wing,(so an not to add any more draft than necessary. I decided not to do to a concern about the stability of the keel and the stress on the keel bolts. Let me know how it works if you do this.
I considered doing something similar to my 23, I was going to mold lead pieces to fit on tip of the wing,(so an not to add any more draft than necessary. I decided not to do to a concern about the stability of the keel and the stress on the keel bolts. Let me know how it works if you do this.
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Ken Cobb
Cheaper to reef
Considering the structural risk you would be taking to add a lot of weight in a location that may not have been designed to handle it, the better alternative to tenderness problems would be to reef early and to possibly use a storm jib.
Considering the structural risk you would be taking to add a lot of weight in a location that may not have been designed to handle it, the better alternative to tenderness problems would be to reef early and to possibly use a storm jib.
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Tim
Just added roller furling
Scott, I've always felt that my boat could use a little more ballast too, especially in heavier air. We recently added roller furling and had our 155% genoa cut for it. We just tried it out last weekend in some very strong winds and it worked great. We eventually ended up with it rolled all the way up and the main reefed, as the wind approached 40 knots, but it was sure nice not having to go forward to change sails. I would have added it sooner, but always thought it would be more expensive than it was. I paid around $400 for a Profurl T-26, and about another $325 to have a luff tape and UV protection sewn on the sail. I did not have to have the foot of the sail cut, as the drum mounted very low to the deck because of the forstay extending down into the chain locker. This saved some money on the sail mods. Anyway, this might be an idea to consider if you don't trailer your boat. The roller furling would probably be too much work to set up each time out. best regards, Tim
Scott, I've always felt that my boat could use a little more ballast too, especially in heavier air. We recently added roller furling and had our 155% genoa cut for it. We just tried it out last weekend in some very strong winds and it worked great. We eventually ended up with it rolled all the way up and the main reefed, as the wind approached 40 knots, but it was sure nice not having to go forward to change sails. I would have added it sooner, but always thought it would be more expensive than it was. I paid around $400 for a Profurl T-26, and about another $325 to have a luff tape and UV protection sewn on the sail. I did not have to have the foot of the sail cut, as the drum mounted very low to the deck because of the forstay extending down into the chain locker. This saved some money on the sail mods. Anyway, this might be an idea to consider if you don't trailer your boat. The roller furling would probably be too much work to set up each time out. best regards, Tim
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Jean Luc
Epson salt in the ballast
I was tinking of adding a certain quatity of epson salt in the ballast to incrise the density off the water. I know that this salt is use in floating bath. I dind't try it.
I was tinking of adding a certain quatity of epson salt in the ballast to incrise the density off the water. I know that this salt is use in floating bath. I dind't try it.
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Tom
Salt Water
I know a guy who set up a pump/purging system on his H26 ballast tank so he could get rid of the freshwater taken on at the river launch point, and replace it with saltwater once he's in the gulf. He says the saltwater adds 60-80 lbs to the ballast. If he's right, you'd need a lot of epsom salt!
I know a guy who set up a pump/purging system on his H26 ballast tank so he could get rid of the freshwater taken on at the river launch point, and replace it with saltwater once he's in the gulf. He says the saltwater adds 60-80 lbs to the ballast. If he's right, you'd need a lot of epsom salt!
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Cliff Ruckstuhl
Allot of thought.
I have been down this road and had giving it allot of thought. Mars Metal sells lead bulbs that can be added. I had even thought about adding a J 22 Keel. The keel weight really has less to do with it than the Hull shape does. All Hunters are tender it's mostly due to the hull shape. I was really suprised that my 25.5 had so much roll at the dock it was like climbing on the 23. It was 9 ft wide and had 3 times as much ballest but at the dock and even under sail was a tender boat but was very fast. These boats have Iron Keels not Lead. Lead is more dense thats it why they use it but it is more expensive. So the boats with the Iron Keels are less to produce. In all the race boats they use lead keels the deeper the better. and they have allot of sail area for the boat this is what makes them fast by using it all for power with the least amount of drag So a lead keel will be smaller then a cast iron keel and heavyer and will also have the least amount of weted service area. So I beleave you will add the weight to the keel and make the boat slower and harder to sell since it is now modified and you will not be allowed to ever race it because it will be modified to make it faster by makeing it stiffer. So My conclusion was to by a different boat. I have found that even the bigger Hunters will need to shorted sail earler than other boats of the same size due to the fact that there over powered. It all goes into the design. I had raced against Catalina 22's for years and days were I needed the 98% Head sail they were still flying there 150 because they have real flat bottoms and a deeper keel even at the dock with there keel all the up a 22 Catalina is still stiffer than a 23. So before you look at adding a lead Shoe to the bottom of your 23 looka t other boats as your walking the docks and just stand on the toe rail you will see it's all in the design. Cliff
I have been down this road and had giving it allot of thought. Mars Metal sells lead bulbs that can be added. I had even thought about adding a J 22 Keel. The keel weight really has less to do with it than the Hull shape does. All Hunters are tender it's mostly due to the hull shape. I was really suprised that my 25.5 had so much roll at the dock it was like climbing on the 23. It was 9 ft wide and had 3 times as much ballest but at the dock and even under sail was a tender boat but was very fast. These boats have Iron Keels not Lead. Lead is more dense thats it why they use it but it is more expensive. So the boats with the Iron Keels are less to produce. In all the race boats they use lead keels the deeper the better. and they have allot of sail area for the boat this is what makes them fast by using it all for power with the least amount of drag So a lead keel will be smaller then a cast iron keel and heavyer and will also have the least amount of weted service area. So I beleave you will add the weight to the keel and make the boat slower and harder to sell since it is now modified and you will not be allowed to ever race it because it will be modified to make it faster by makeing it stiffer. So My conclusion was to by a different boat. I have found that even the bigger Hunters will need to shorted sail earler than other boats of the same size due to the fact that there over powered. It all goes into the design. I had raced against Catalina 22's for years and days were I needed the 98% Head sail they were still flying there 150 because they have real flat bottoms and a deeper keel even at the dock with there keel all the up a 22 Catalina is still stiffer than a 23. So before you look at adding a lead Shoe to the bottom of your 23 looka t other boats as your walking the docks and just stand on the toe rail you will see it's all in the design. Cliff
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Kevin
Scott: Design changes are not simple affairs. Before you do anything permanent consult a qualified yacht designer (naval architect). A below-the-waterline modification may result in stresses above the waterline that the original designers did not contemplate (such as on mast and standing rigging). - Kevin.
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Ron
Main only!
Scott, Having sailed a 1988 Hunter 23 (Toad) with wing keel for the past 13 years my thoughts are to go with main only and reef it if you need to. I would not consider modifications to the keel! The H23 is a very stable boat and with main only can be controlled in a safe manner in 40 + knots. Shift crew weight to windward, be very careful if gybing and always be ready to dump or feather the main in gusts. An adjustable backstay is a good idea for heavy wind conditions as well. Remember white caps and life jackets go together like cherry pie and ice cream! Enjoy the h23, it is a real boat. Ron
Scott, Having sailed a 1988 Hunter 23 (Toad) with wing keel for the past 13 years my thoughts are to go with main only and reef it if you need to. I would not consider modifications to the keel! The H23 is a very stable boat and with main only can be controlled in a safe manner in 40 + knots. Shift crew weight to windward, be very careful if gybing and always be ready to dump or feather the main in gusts. An adjustable backstay is a good idea for heavy wind conditions as well. Remember white caps and life jackets go together like cherry pie and ice cream! Enjoy the h23, it is a real boat. Ron
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