I have just recently purchased a sweet '91 H23. The problem I am having is I am getting a lot of water under the floorboards where the keel bolts in. When I sponge out this water, it just keeps coming back though the holes that connect the 3 bays until I finally get all of it. It takes a few weeks for it to come back so it not a major leak. Where is all of this water sitting? The bilge under my cockpit rarely has any water in it. I want to install a bilge pump for this under cabin area, but there doesn't seem to be any access to where all of this water sits. Please help me with this "automatic cabin humidifier!"
H23 leak in bilge
- Thread starter T. L. Agerton
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sounds like a leaking though hull fitting....
Check all the fittings that are below the water line, such as ball valves and what not. Also check the keel bolts. Ok, for the obvious question, is it in the water now, or on the hard? As for removing the water, if there is not enough room to install a bilge pump at the point lowest in the boat, run a hose there and connect the other end to a self priming pump. Yhats what i did on my H22 and it works great!!!
Check all the fittings that are below the water line, such as ball valves and what not. Also check the keel bolts. Ok, for the obvious question, is it in the water now, or on the hard? As for removing the water, if there is not enough room to install a bilge pump at the point lowest in the boat, run a hose there and connect the other end to a self priming pump. Yhats what i did on my H22 and it works great!!!
do you have a thru-hull in v-berth?
I have my depth and knot meter in my v-berth water could slowy be leaking in and back or through your keel bolt. There isnt enough room under your floor board for a bilge pump so about hte only place for one is in the bilge! good luck let us know! -Jeff Hunter 23
I have my depth and knot meter in my v-berth water could slowy be leaking in and back or through your keel bolt. There isnt enough room under your floor board for a bilge pump so about hte only place for one is in the bilge! good luck let us know! -Jeff Hunter 23
common problem
T.L. - do an archive search and you will find tons of references specific to this problem, this boat. In my H23, the anchor locker hose leaked, the cockpit drain hose leaked, water leaked through the rub rail and finally, the forward port corner of the companionway hatch lexan slider leaks. That leak is just weeping where rain water rests against the teak stopper. It will be fixed before this season starts. Hose replacements fixed the first 2 leaks. I ran a bead of clear silicone along the upper edge of the rub rail to stop that leak. More ambitious owners have replace their rub rails. You will continue to have water drain into the keel bolt bilges for a time after the leaks are fixed. You can accelerate the drying process by slighly enlarging the weep holes in the keel bolt bilges, attaching a small diameter hose to a shop vac and sucking it out. All sounds worse than it is. You're gonna love your H23!
T.L. - do an archive search and you will find tons of references specific to this problem, this boat. In my H23, the anchor locker hose leaked, the cockpit drain hose leaked, water leaked through the rub rail and finally, the forward port corner of the companionway hatch lexan slider leaks. That leak is just weeping where rain water rests against the teak stopper. It will be fixed before this season starts. Hose replacements fixed the first 2 leaks. I ran a bead of clear silicone along the upper edge of the rub rail to stop that leak. More ambitious owners have replace their rub rails. You will continue to have water drain into the keel bolt bilges for a time after the leaks are fixed. You can accelerate the drying process by slighly enlarging the weep holes in the keel bolt bilges, attaching a small diameter hose to a shop vac and sucking it out. All sounds worse than it is. You're gonna love your H23!
Go with Mike's list plus one...
You don't have any thru-hulls below the water line with the exception of your cockpit drain, which really is just above the water line. I had the same problem when I got my H23 a few years ago. The cockpit drain hose was leaking, that was a big one. The plus one: Be sure and check your lower pintles. Mine were loose and leaked when under way. That was a major leak with mine. Even after you get those leaks taken care of you might see some nasty water slosh it's way out from under the cabin sole for a while. After you let her heel to 30 plus a few times to get that crap out of there where you can mop it up you will probably be fine.
You don't have any thru-hulls below the water line with the exception of your cockpit drain, which really is just above the water line. I had the same problem when I got my H23 a few years ago. The cockpit drain hose was leaking, that was a big one. The plus one: Be sure and check your lower pintles. Mine were loose and leaked when under way. That was a major leak with mine. Even after you get those leaks taken care of you might see some nasty water slosh it's way out from under the cabin sole for a while. After you let her heel to 30 plus a few times to get that crap out of there where you can mop it up you will probably be fine.
On the other hand
It may not be leaking at all from the bottom. In fact, I doubt it is. Rather, it's coming in from rainwater or from heavy seas while sailing. The advice on checking the rubrail is excellent, since this is where many of the leak problems begin. I fixed mine by removing old caulk and rebedding with a very thin bead of Lifeseal clear caulk. Didn't even have to do the underside of the rubrai. When this and other above-waterline leaks are resolved, the problem should go away. So you won't need a bilge pump, which is good since it looks too tough to install anyway. No need for overkill.
It may not be leaking at all from the bottom. In fact, I doubt it is. Rather, it's coming in from rainwater or from heavy seas while sailing. The advice on checking the rubrail is excellent, since this is where many of the leak problems begin. I fixed mine by removing old caulk and rebedding with a very thin bead of Lifeseal clear caulk. Didn't even have to do the underside of the rubrai. When this and other above-waterline leaks are resolved, the problem should go away. So you won't need a bilge pump, which is good since it looks too tough to install anyway. No need for overkill.
My water
after the aforementioned reasons came from two other sources: at the mast foot rain would seep through the hole(s) drilled for mast lighting, radio, and ground. This is indicated by brown stains on the overhead in the cabin. Another point was along the hull to deck seam port side aft stanchion, again indicated by stains. You might also see stains along the deck and hull joint along the length of the cabin area, and if you look in your lazerette, again at the joint where joint screws poke through the inner hull roving. Much of my water intrusion was the result of cracks caused by impact from dockage, at the point along my hull deck joint (I call gunwale). It so happens this point of intrusion is at the lowest point of the deck, a point where it will seep, or absorb before seeping to your bilge. If you heel at 30 degrees you are abusing your boat. Water will intrude from the pressure below the rub rail, along the threads of the rub rail screws and into her gunwale core, then through any holes your hull deck screws have through the inner gunwale hull. Heeling at 30 degrees is as fun as it gets, though in addition to the insane pressures aloft it strains your rudder and novice crew. Seasoned crew in weather with beer will encourage you to wet them, so y'all may discover "pitch pole". Odds are there won't be any witness to report; that's why you don't hear of it. Don't dip your rail. If you have dipped your rail you may see brown stains as I have indicating a problem I discovered along the gunwale; the wood core is compromised from exposure to water, and possible water retention resulting in rot. The brown stains from my mast at the top of my post I haven't begun to investigate, but from what I've learned from my gunwale work it's an indication of potential problems. There aren't any symptoms of rot, but I know that this is a thick sandwich of wood between fiberglass and brown stain isn't good. Without measuring or prints I'd say this is a three to four inch thick hunk of wood our mast sits on (from drilling experience). Now, on the '86 H23 we have a pan in the cabin at the bottom of the hull which the keel bolts fasten through; the sole. Even if the keel bolts aren't leaking water can accumulate under this sole (or whatever it's called) for whatever reasons. I've battled with removing this water for some time with less than satisfactory results. What pissed me off regarding the design and construction of my boat is that at the rear of this fabricated installed sole there is a 3/4" hole for drainage. Unfortunately this hole is obstructed by the wooden lazerette bulkhead so that the only way for water to pass is through absorbtion, or along this bulkhead with extreme heeling. In effect it is just standing water against wood and fiberglass. I am replacing this bulkhead. Keep the faith: this is an excellent boat in the worst of conditions at sea or on the hard. Mine has been used, and in my hands, abused; single handed she can be destroyed or salvaged. If you follow my progress regarding my current work you will see how a '86 H23 can be worked on...the results will tell of my success. Do not attempt what I am doing and expect success, for what I'm doing is experimental. I post it here for the archive. When I make a mistake I'll report it. From what I've learned this boat at the dock as built shouldn't leak enough to require a bilge pump. A bilge pump will attend to your symptoms but indicates your boat is on its way to the bottom. Fix it, and report it here. Mark Major '86 H23 Lesismor
after the aforementioned reasons came from two other sources: at the mast foot rain would seep through the hole(s) drilled for mast lighting, radio, and ground. This is indicated by brown stains on the overhead in the cabin. Another point was along the hull to deck seam port side aft stanchion, again indicated by stains. You might also see stains along the deck and hull joint along the length of the cabin area, and if you look in your lazerette, again at the joint where joint screws poke through the inner hull roving. Much of my water intrusion was the result of cracks caused by impact from dockage, at the point along my hull deck joint (I call gunwale). It so happens this point of intrusion is at the lowest point of the deck, a point where it will seep, or absorb before seeping to your bilge. If you heel at 30 degrees you are abusing your boat. Water will intrude from the pressure below the rub rail, along the threads of the rub rail screws and into her gunwale core, then through any holes your hull deck screws have through the inner gunwale hull. Heeling at 30 degrees is as fun as it gets, though in addition to the insane pressures aloft it strains your rudder and novice crew. Seasoned crew in weather with beer will encourage you to wet them, so y'all may discover "pitch pole". Odds are there won't be any witness to report; that's why you don't hear of it. Don't dip your rail. If you have dipped your rail you may see brown stains as I have indicating a problem I discovered along the gunwale; the wood core is compromised from exposure to water, and possible water retention resulting in rot. The brown stains from my mast at the top of my post I haven't begun to investigate, but from what I've learned from my gunwale work it's an indication of potential problems. There aren't any symptoms of rot, but I know that this is a thick sandwich of wood between fiberglass and brown stain isn't good. Without measuring or prints I'd say this is a three to four inch thick hunk of wood our mast sits on (from drilling experience). Now, on the '86 H23 we have a pan in the cabin at the bottom of the hull which the keel bolts fasten through; the sole. Even if the keel bolts aren't leaking water can accumulate under this sole (or whatever it's called) for whatever reasons. I've battled with removing this water for some time with less than satisfactory results. What pissed me off regarding the design and construction of my boat is that at the rear of this fabricated installed sole there is a 3/4" hole for drainage. Unfortunately this hole is obstructed by the wooden lazerette bulkhead so that the only way for water to pass is through absorbtion, or along this bulkhead with extreme heeling. In effect it is just standing water against wood and fiberglass. I am replacing this bulkhead. Keep the faith: this is an excellent boat in the worst of conditions at sea or on the hard. Mine has been used, and in my hands, abused; single handed she can be destroyed or salvaged. If you follow my progress regarding my current work you will see how a '86 H23 can be worked on...the results will tell of my success. Do not attempt what I am doing and expect success, for what I'm doing is experimental. I post it here for the archive. When I make a mistake I'll report it. From what I've learned this boat at the dock as built shouldn't leak enough to require a bilge pump. A bilge pump will attend to your symptoms but indicates your boat is on its way to the bottom. Fix it, and report it here. Mark Major '86 H23 Lesismor
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