H23.5...Motor mount/ wheel bearing lube

[Hawk4661]

Question one....Motor mount board has cracked lengthwise in the middle.Should I replace it with an orginal board( possible teak) from marine parts supply....or with 2x6x17.5 weather treated (green)standard board from lumber yard?.
Its depth would be a little differant 1 5/8 rather than 2 inch?
The four anchor bolts have no nuts on back that can be seen from looking under cockpit area.


Question two....I want to check trailer wheel bearing and repack my wheel bearing with some warm weather day this winter.I bougth two "Grease buddies", that have threads. To replace the standard caps on wheel now.Can anyone give me advise on type lube and tips.
I have a lot of grease thrown /leaked out all over the outside of my one wheel.Cap was not put on tight when last checked I subspect..?

Txs in advance guys...awesome group.:dance:

 

[George H260]

Here is a couple of great videos from etrailer.com that walks you through a bearing repack:

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-repack_trailer_hub_bearings.aspx
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-inspect_and_pack_trailer_bearings.aspx

I assume your trailer is made by Magic Tilt. Hunter/MagicTilt probably used various axle suppliers, but my MT trailer axles/brakes are supplied by UFP.

http://www.ufpnet.com/Axles/tabid/55/Default.aspx

The videos do not cover bearing buddy type grease caps, but the UFP website has a lot of info on this type of cap. You say your bearing buddies screw on? Make sure your hub takes this kind of cap. Most are the tap-in kind. The only thing I'd add to the video is to use a plastic or rubber hammer and wood block when replacing the seal and cap.

Use only grease suitable for marine applications -- resists water intrusion. You'll find marine trailer grease at most auto supply stores.

If you replace the bearings you are probably looking for the L68149/L44649 3500lb axle bearing kit -- easy to find in most boat/trailer or auto supply stores. I'd pull a wheel and check the bearing/seal part numbers to be sure.


However, Unique Functional Products (UFP) recommends seals designed expressly for marine use. The bearings are probably the same but you'll see an obvious difference between the UFP marine seal and the one normally used for utility/travel trailers.

My contact at UFP is Lyn Dyer LDyer@ufpnet.com, 800-854-1905 ext.107. UFP recommends Waymire Corp, 1280 N. Senate Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46202, 317-631-7551..

Finally, get a couple of those PVC hats that fit over the bearing cap - no more grease splatters

More on trailers and towing here:

http://h260.com/trailer/trailer1/trailer1.html
http://h260.com/travel/travel.html


Hope that helps.

 

[Rick Webb]

Glue It Don't Replace It

You could even put dowels in to hold it together.

 

[Henry Scurlock]

Mark, the four bolts go into glassed in plates, much like the deck hardware. I agree with Rick, repair the existing mount if it is a clean split. Add dowels or biscuits to strengthen the repair and glue it up.

I think later models used a composite mount instead of wood, something akin to Starboard.

 

[caguy]

I used 2 oak 1x2's I was able to buy a 2' section from Lowes. I laminated with Gorilla Glue, that stuff is amazingly tough. If you decide to repair your split I would use G.G. and clamp, with a 2" surface you shouldn't need to dowel.
Frank

 

[Hawk4661]

Thank you George...awesome links.

 

[Hawk4661]

Re: Glue It Don't Replace It

Great idea.I never gave glueing or re using it a thougth...I believe it can be done.txs freind....fair winds.

 

[Hawk4661]

Txs ca guy....I like the idea of trying to save the orginal piece now..however if I cant then your oak option sounds good.....fair winds friend..mark<><