Questions from a newbie: What is the headroom in the swing-keeled Hunter 22? (Has anybody ever actually measured it?) Also, how much does the swing keel weigh, ie, is all the ballast in the movable centerboard, or is at least some of it internal to the hull?
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Not enough
i think that the head room is only like 5 feet on my 1981 H22. As far as the centerboard, there is no balast in it, it weights around 75 pounds, if that. The ballast is split into two sections of lead, 650 pounds a piece on either side of the centerboard trunk. The lead is litterally right under the floor boards. The H22 is a great boat to learn on, it was my first sailboat. I'm thinking about selling it this spring and move up to something bigger. I want something with a head in it and hot water.
i think that the head room is only like 5 feet on my 1981 H22. As far as the centerboard, there is no balast in it, it weights around 75 pounds, if that. The ballast is split into two sections of lead, 650 pounds a piece on either side of the centerboard trunk. The lead is litterally right under the floor boards. The H22 is a great boat to learn on, it was my first sailboat. I'm thinking about selling it this spring and move up to something bigger. I want something with a head in it and hot water.
Five Foot Two according to my 5'3.75" wife
I am creating a website of My H22. I am supposed to pick it up tomorow after having the bottom restored. Check out the link below for pictures inside and out.
I am creating a website of My H22. I am supposed to pick it up tomorow after having the bottom restored. Check out the link below for pictures inside and out.
Part 2 of your question
Almost all of the ballast is in the bottom of the boat under the floor boards. The center board is foam and fiberglass. I have heard there is some weight on the leading edge but I can not varify this. The centerboard is pulled up by a rope on a double block under the table so it can't have very much weight.
Almost all of the ballast is in the bottom of the boat under the floor boards. The center board is foam and fiberglass. I have heard there is some weight on the leading edge but I can not varify this. The centerboard is pulled up by a rope on a double block under the table so it can't have very much weight.
More answers
The centerboard weighs in at about 60 pounds. It is just foam filled glass and has no ballast anywhere. It was originally made by Foss Foam, I believe. All 1300 lbs of ballast are in the floor under the wood panels. It is lead held in with some type of epoxie/plastic covering. Head room, I've never actually measured but 5'-2" sounds about right. Fair winds, Todd
The centerboard weighs in at about 60 pounds. It is just foam filled glass and has no ballast anywhere. It was originally made by Foss Foam, I believe. All 1300 lbs of ballast are in the floor under the wood panels. It is lead held in with some type of epoxie/plastic covering. Head room, I've never actually measured but 5'-2" sounds about right. Fair winds, Todd
Keel questions
Hi - I just picked up a 22' Hunter today and I need to repair the keel. I was told it just needs to be re-glassed but really couldn't get agood look at it because i could not get it down. After looking at it breifly, I could not see how to put it in and out. I was wondering if anyone can share some info on the mechanism by which this is done. Also, if you have any advice on re-glassing it with best results.
Hi - I just picked up a 22' Hunter today and I need to repair the keel. I was told it just needs to be re-glassed but really couldn't get agood look at it because i could not get it down. After looking at it breifly, I could not see how to put it in and out. I was wondering if anyone can share some info on the mechanism by which this is done. Also, if you have any advice on re-glassing it with best results.
Keel removal
In order to remove the keel you must remove the axle/pin it pivots on. There are two bolts on both sides of the keel that hold the axle retention plate in place. Remove all four bolts and the keel will drop down for you. Be warned though that these bolts and the plate are sealed with a 5200 type sealant and can be very hard to get tools around. Also, the bolts on the starboard side (i believe) are partially obstructed by the lead ballast. You can shave away a little bit of this lead to make the job easier if you wish. I was able to remove them without doing this, but it wasn't very fun. Oh, one more thing, the bolts are a standard slotted type on the exterior and require someone outside to hold it in place. This is a two person job! After the bolts are removed you can drop the keel low enough to untie the haul line or remove the table top inside the cabin to access the block hardware. Actually you may want to remove the tabletop anyway so you can inspect all the lines and hardware. It would be prudent to replace the lines at this time as you wouldn't want to have them break after you complete all this work and drop the boat in the water. While I'm thinking about it you may also want to check the condition of the keels pivot hole. Check for tolerance with the axle pin. Is it still good and tight or has it become sloppy and ovalized? My bearings were shot and the hole was very ovalized. Upon the advice of someone on these boards I just used some 1/2 copper pipe and marine tex to repair the sleeve. 4 years later my keel is tight and wobble free. When you're done with your repairs remember to seal all the bolts and plates with generous amounts of 5200. You would not want to get a leak down here. Hope this helps. Fair Winds, Todd
In order to remove the keel you must remove the axle/pin it pivots on. There are two bolts on both sides of the keel that hold the axle retention plate in place. Remove all four bolts and the keel will drop down for you. Be warned though that these bolts and the plate are sealed with a 5200 type sealant and can be very hard to get tools around. Also, the bolts on the starboard side (i believe) are partially obstructed by the lead ballast. You can shave away a little bit of this lead to make the job easier if you wish. I was able to remove them without doing this, but it wasn't very fun. Oh, one more thing, the bolts are a standard slotted type on the exterior and require someone outside to hold it in place. This is a two person job! After the bolts are removed you can drop the keel low enough to untie the haul line or remove the table top inside the cabin to access the block hardware. Actually you may want to remove the tabletop anyway so you can inspect all the lines and hardware. It would be prudent to replace the lines at this time as you wouldn't want to have them break after you complete all this work and drop the boat in the water. While I'm thinking about it you may also want to check the condition of the keels pivot hole. Check for tolerance with the axle pin. Is it still good and tight or has it become sloppy and ovalized? My bearings were shot and the hole was very ovalized. Upon the advice of someone on these boards I just used some 1/2 copper pipe and marine tex to repair the sleeve. 4 years later my keel is tight and wobble free. When you're done with your repairs remember to seal all the bolts and plates with generous amounts of 5200. You would not want to get a leak down here. Hope this helps. Fair Winds, Todd
HELP!! - I need a used swing keel for a 22'
thanks for the help and advice last week guys. i got the swing keel down, but it's shot and alot of it's missing. I need to find a cheap used one or I'm out of luck with this thing. let me know if anyone has any relaible used parts palces that you can reccommend
thanks for the help and advice last week guys. i got the swing keel down, but it's shot and alot of it's missing. I need to find a cheap used one or I'm out of luck with this thing. let me know if anyone has any relaible used parts palces that you can reccommend
Foss Foam in FL
made the centerboard for the H22. I could see it being more cost effective to repair the current centerboard vs purchasing a new one. Do you have pics of the current condition of your centerboard? Have you removed it yet?
made the centerboard for the H22. I could see it being more cost effective to repair the current centerboard vs purchasing a new one. Do you have pics of the current condition of your centerboard? Have you removed it yet?
New keel
JD, I'd have to say your keel is toast. You have maybe 1/8th of the keel there. No way to rebuild that. It may be possible to find someone selling parts off their old 22 but that is a longshot. Your only "timely" option is to have a new one built. I think Foss Foam in Fla. was the original manufacturer. They may be able to help you or at least point you in the right direction. Fair winds, Todd
JD, I'd have to say your keel is toast. You have maybe 1/8th of the keel there. No way to rebuild that. It may be possible to find someone selling parts off their old 22 but that is a longshot. Your only "timely" option is to have a new one built. I think Foss Foam in Fla. was the original manufacturer. They may be able to help you or at least point you in the right direction. Fair winds, Todd
whats better than 1, but 2
Actually, there are (2) H22's on ebay in NY right now, all really attractive prices, and what looks to be decent shape.
Actually, there are (2) H22's on ebay in NY right now, all really attractive prices, and what looks to be decent shape.
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