I had a survey done and was told I have delamination in my 1983 H34 rudder. From tapping on it, it seems to be on the starboard side, middle, isolated to maybe 3-4 5-inch spots. Anyone had the problem? Is it "fixable"? How? Can I hold off for a while getting it repaired? Thanks
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Bob Fuller
Rudder Delamination
Just purchased a 1990 33.5 and discovered the same problem during the survey. The seller kicked us back $2000 towards the purchase of a new one. I'll be ordering from Foss Foam in Clearwater,FL. New cost is approx $1450 plus freight. Don't forget the Delryn bearings. Al Walker @ 727-571-3626 was most helpful.
Just purchased a 1990 33.5 and discovered the same problem during the survey. The seller kicked us back $2000 towards the purchase of a new one. I'll be ordering from Foss Foam in Clearwater,FL. New cost is approx $1450 plus freight. Don't forget the Delryn bearings. Al Walker @ 727-571-3626 was most helpful.
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Alan Liebnick
Delamination on my Hunter31 1986
I had the same problem on the port side in the middle. The effected area was approximately 6-7 inches in diameter. I got the usual "hollow sound" when I hit it lightly with a rubber mallet. After hauling the boat, I drilled 1/4" holes approx. 1 inch apart half way into the foam core. This drilling covered the entire area. I let the rudder dryout for the winter and in the spring I applied a heat lamp to it-to get rid of the moisture. Then I stripped the paint and syringed in the West System's epoxy filler into each of the holes.(West Sytems have an excellent instruction manual available at West Marine for about $7.95)After the material was syringed I clamped some sheet metal to compress the epoxy into the foam and allowed it to cure 48 hours before sanding and painting. The results worked fine for me. Note of caution if using West System's filler be sure to do it where there is no wind (the particles just fly away. Also wear gloves and mask for safety.
I had the same problem on the port side in the middle. The effected area was approximately 6-7 inches in diameter. I got the usual "hollow sound" when I hit it lightly with a rubber mallet. After hauling the boat, I drilled 1/4" holes approx. 1 inch apart half way into the foam core. This drilling covered the entire area. I let the rudder dryout for the winter and in the spring I applied a heat lamp to it-to get rid of the moisture. Then I stripped the paint and syringed in the West System's epoxy filler into each of the holes.(West Sytems have an excellent instruction manual available at West Marine for about $7.95)After the material was syringed I clamped some sheet metal to compress the epoxy into the foam and allowed it to cure 48 hours before sanding and painting. The results worked fine for me. Note of caution if using West System's filler be sure to do it where there is no wind (the particles just fly away. Also wear gloves and mask for safety.
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Ed Schenck
Salt water boat?
During my short history with large sailboats I have noticed how destructive saltwater can be. Especially when it gets next to metals. So I guess I would recommend that you find the Practical Sailor issue that illustrates a rudder rebuild. There are too many stories about the f/g part separating from the metal shaft.
During my short history with large sailboats I have noticed how destructive saltwater can be. Especially when it gets next to metals. So I guess I would recommend that you find the Practical Sailor issue that illustrates a rudder rebuild. There are too many stories about the f/g part separating from the metal shaft.
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Jim
winter storage
I have had this happen during winter storage. I was told that letting the sun shine on the rudder can cause expansion and it will result in delamination, especially if it is painted with a dark bottom paint. I now wrap the rudder in white plastic wrap.
I have had this happen during winter storage. I was told that letting the sun shine on the rudder can cause expansion and it will result in delamination, especially if it is painted with a dark bottom paint. I now wrap the rudder in white plastic wrap.
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Dave Kelton
Foamy problem
Unfortunately, this is a problem with all of the hunter models, as well as lots of other manufacturers. I have rebuilt my rudder, H34, and can tell you that half of the problem I believe occurs during construction. I found that there were numerous areas of voids in the foam, which after the sun heats it in the winter, causes the fiberglass to buckle and further delaminate from the core. It looks to me that the outer fiberglass shell is constructed first, then the foam is poured in from the top. This theory seems to be supported in the fact that the areas of missing foam have straight sides, unlike an area of foam that may have dissolved. That seems to be the only way I can percieve there being areas of missing foam. Anyways, I cut off the fiberglas mat on each side, built up the missing foam with resin and chopped mat, then laid new cloth over the top. A little sanding, Interlux 2000, and bottom paint, and voila, new rudder at a fraction of the cost.
Unfortunately, this is a problem with all of the hunter models, as well as lots of other manufacturers. I have rebuilt my rudder, H34, and can tell you that half of the problem I believe occurs during construction. I found that there were numerous areas of voids in the foam, which after the sun heats it in the winter, causes the fiberglass to buckle and further delaminate from the core. It looks to me that the outer fiberglass shell is constructed first, then the foam is poured in from the top. This theory seems to be supported in the fact that the areas of missing foam have straight sides, unlike an area of foam that may have dissolved. That seems to be the only way I can percieve there being areas of missing foam. Anyways, I cut off the fiberglas mat on each side, built up the missing foam with resin and chopped mat, then laid new cloth over the top. A little sanding, Interlux 2000, and bottom paint, and voila, new rudder at a fraction of the cost.
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Ed Schenck
Dave, curious about the rudder stock. . . .
inside the f/g. When you opened it up were you able to see how the rudder is built? Is there a large s/s plate welded to the stock in there? And what was it's condition? That's the part I worry about.
inside the f/g. When you opened it up were you able to see how the rudder is built? Is there a large s/s plate welded to the stock in there? And what was it's condition? That's the part I worry about.
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