H-26 Centerboard Trunk Plate Removal Problem

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BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
While on the trailer and mast down, I am doing some repairs on my 1994 H-26. The repairs at hand are to re-seal the mast step base and compression pole on the deck and reseal the centerboard trunk plate onto the trunk on the other end. I have leaks at both places. Pat Adam has some excellent articles on this in the "Owner Mods" section. To do the repairs, I am removing/raising up the compression post. This is my first time attempting to remove the centerboard trunk plate. At the beginning of the job, before actually removing the compression post, I first attempted to remove the large centerboard plate thru bolt. There was no initial heavy resistance when attempting to loosen the bolt. The bolt head spins (and spins and spins) , but the bolt does not loosen (raise up). What does this bolt thread into? What are the possible problems? ..... and solutions? Thanks for your thoughts. BrianW
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
Try applying downward pressure on the CB while attempting to loosen the bolt in the hope that its stripped and might get a bite. Otherwise the nut has come loose from the bracket which means you should lather it with caulk and move on. Sorry but it sounds like an impossible spot to get to.
 
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BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Mike, two or three or four questions: Does the big bolt run through the centerboard bracket and thread into a nut under the centerboard bracket.... or does the centerboard bracket, itself, have a threaded hole that the bolt screws directly into? How do I push the centerboard down while it's sitting on the trailer? I thought about your last "lather it with caulk" suggestion. My nagging thought involves stripped threads and my whole centerboard falling out while in the water. Thanks, BrianW
 
Dec 8, 2011
172
Hunter 23.5 New Orleans
I believe the H26 setup is similar to my 23.5. The centerboard bracket bolt is threaded into the bracket...no separate loose nut on the under side of the bracket. Sounds as though the threads on the bolt may have rusted. (stainless is subject to rusting) If you can't get the threads to bite, your alternative I guess would be to cut/drill off the bolt head.

I did the job in a boatyard with the boat blocked up about four feet in the air. I found the only connection holding the bracket in the centerboard trunk is the bolt head (and the center board control line). On my boat, the board and bracket assembly did not just fall out when the bolt was removed. A good bit of pounding on a 3/4 inch threaded rod which I inserted in the bolt hole was necessary to drop the board & bracket.

I was lucky that the bolt was in good shape, however the axle upon which the board pivots was mis aligned and the axle bushing was shot. The boatyard folks were creative in replacing the bushing with a much sturdier cutless bearing section, securing both ends of the axle in the bracket and shiming the bracket to eliminate annoying rattle/knocking from excessive board play. Centerboard control line was renewed as well.

The proper fix of your bolt issue likely will require dropping the board and bracket. Seems a good opportunity to inspect the whole system.

Good luck &

Krgds

Hugh Straub
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Brian'

With the boat on the trailer, you cannot remove the centerboard out. Even if you did, you will possibly miss align the centerboard housing bracket in the centerboard housing and all that work you have done will be lost. However, if that big bolt is turning, you have a much bigger problem. Either the bracket was never pushed back all the way into the centerboard housing underneath the boat or the retaining nut welded to the CB bracket is stripped. You have a major problem. The centerboard could eventually fall off under sail.

I would strongly suggest that you go the yard and have the boat lifted from the trailer and then remove the bracket to see what is going on and this is a must young man.
If you do remove the bracket do put a tracer line in.

If it were me, generally removal is not necessary but what you have described really is very disturbing. go to a yard and lift the boat up. keep me posted at davecondon@mindspring.com and I will assist and advise the forurm what is going on.

Crazy dave condon

If you do not know who I am, then others will tell you.
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
Alright, I'll go against the self proclaimed God of all things Hunter. Is it just me but, Wow, "If you don't know who I am others will tell you"???? Really, you tell us in every post.

A CB bolt failure nearly happened to me. See a pic below of my 5y/o CB bolt that I checked, only to find it was already 30% destroyed so at least you're on it.

Cutting out a stripped bolt is nearly impossible without destroying the housing so decide early how far you want to go. I suppose a line of 1/4" holes slowly drilled all the way around the bolt head would be a last resort, but omg that'd be a terrible job. A newly fabricated SS base plate or huge fender washer and 1/2 a tube of 5200 or butyl tape would get it sewn up after surgery.

Granted it's easier to hire a lift but if you're a capable tool guy with a friend, obvious caution and a hydraulic jack and don't have the cash I'd remove all the major weight from the boat that I could, and lift it right on the trailer. I'd lift the trailer on a flat driveway/slab a bit and block the frame well. Lift the boat in slow progressions and finally block it at the sling zones front and rear and the bow section with some stout carpeted 2x12 cubes and get after it. It only has to come up 12-14" off the CB rest for the CB to come out. Pull off the trailers' CB rest if you need some more room.

The bolt's stripped for sure, or worse, the nut on the housing has corroded loose. That being said maybe some grunt at the factory was told to glue the CB bracket to the upper housing which will make it much tougher/impossible to get loose. Otherwise it'd come out of the slot with a minor bit of convincing, like lowering the CB enough to place a wooden block between the boat and the CB near the head somewhere while gently lifting upward on the tail.


Again, going against the Grand Potentate, aligning the bracket is actually VERY simple thanks to the ingenuity of another user who wasn't satisfied with only one way of doing things and shares his ideas openly on the forum. Just strap the funky banquet table to the cabin ceiling, cut a 14" piece of 3/4" all-thread and screw it into the bracket, lift the board and bracket near the slot and push the all-thread into the main bolt hole. Now you can either run a nut and a sleeve on the rod to draw it up (perfectly aligned every time), have your volunteer lift it with the rod or just lift the head into place from below if you've eaten your Wheaties. After removing the rod from above, put your new SS 3/4" bolt in place with a fairly snug fit, lather the whole thing with 5200 and you're golden after it dries for a few days.

Hope that helps and please post your success along with what you learned in the process.

All my best to you in your efforts, Mike
 

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Jun 2, 2004
3,612
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Bolt Removal

If the bolt is corroded all around where it goes through the bolt perhaps putting some upward pressure on it will get it to catch the threads that are below the nut and if you've been living right it will come out. Start with a little screw driver and move up as you get more room.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
when ever I am questioned, my suggestions are based on experience having worked on the boats myself more than most. When I hear that the retaining bolt for the center board housing is turning, then there can be one or more things going on.

First, the bracket underneath could be misalighned which is simply jammed into place without the bolt being screwed into the nut. I have seen that on occassion when lifiting a 260 and took it out. I have seen of course where the screw threads were stripped and either a new center board bracket or new nut rewelded onto the housing was in order. These are the two major reasons... Without the retaining bolt holding or securing the centerboard housing in place, it can come off and severe damage can occur which I have repaired as well.

When someone tells others to lift the boats off the trailers with screw jacks or any type of tools, most do not have the where with all and I have seen damage not only to the boats but to the owners as well. Therefore, I will always suggest letting a yard to lift the boat due to safety concerns.

What many of you do not know, I have seen and experienced alot in my lifetime and although some stories are funny, you have not seen the distatourous after affects like I have seen to include severe injury. Therefore, I do tend to go a little overboard when it comes to safety. As for the misaligned brackets, that came about not from the factory.

However, if you disagree with my suggestions, thats fine. I guess to some my suggestion of the 260 is not a good one either.

crazy dave condon
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Thank you ALL for your input! Please keep it coming! I need all the help and ideas I can get. I've been on this forum for 7 years and know quite well the personalities of the commenters. I APPRECIATE them all, even Crazy Dave! :). I filter each one of the comments based on many different types of experiences. I value them all.

OK.... back to the problem at hand. I've tried clamping the bolt head with vice grips and pulling up while loosening in an attempt to get the bolt threads to bite. I'll give it another try with a screwdriver if I can git a tiny bit of space, per Rick.

There is no way for me to peep inside to see what's actually going on below without fiberglass surgery. So, what do y'all think of cutting/drilling the bolt head off. Then, lifting the boat up by some undisclosed generic prudent method. Shouldn't the centerboard then be free to come loose as though the bolt was actually removed, regardless of actual problem? Thanks again for your input.... and please keep it coming! BrianW
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I spoke with Brian today. It appears that the weld of the retaining nut on the centerboard housing may have come unloose. He was advised to drill the head of the bolt out and then remove for inspection.

crazy Dave Condon
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,612
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
I am Trying to Remember but Can't

Assuming the weld on the bollt is gone. Instead of drilling the head off of the bolt if you were to lift the boat lower the centerboard and jam a screwdiver or somthing similar between the bracket and the bolt would you then be able to loosen the bolt?

Drilling that bolt head off is going to be a mess and a pain in the ass.

Just think of me as the laziest guy in the room offering suggestions. I would defer to Dave on all matters refering to these boats he has seen and fixed more with these than any of us would want to.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Rick;

I suggested a small vice grip around the head. The screw driver could damage the glass and if the bolt is frozen, it will not work but I will suggest this to Brian first. I am not sure specifically until that housing is out.
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,612
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Screwdriver

I said bolt and I meant nut

I was thinking there was a piece of metal on either side of the nut up in the centerboard well. I am not even sure it would be accessible. It was just a thought.

Maybe someone out there has a picture?
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Photo of CB Bracket & Nut

Here is a good photo of the centerboard bracket nut. It is from Pat Adam's EXCELLENT series of H-26 "Hunter Owner Mods". The great photo labeling is Pat's also. This one is from the "CB Line Replacement" how-to. BrianW
 

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Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
oops! sorry rick. Old age is catching up on me.

Brian, I see the boat on jack stands and the yard placed one jack stand on the bow. That is good. It would be helpful to have a partner in crime when you put that back on. You will note the two pins and suggest you put duck tape over the ends to help keep the pins from coming out when putting it back in.

Call me anytime sir. You have my email and phone but phone is personal.

Crazy
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
Seeing Toms pic I'd say Ricks idea to jam the side of the nut has merit if the CB can be lowered enough to get a really long/skinny wedge of a screw driver or fabricated rod between the nut and the side of the SS plate but if I recall it was way up in there and the head of the CB takes up all the available space(if there's even room for the tool). It'd surely require a yard lift for that kind of height, or a quick hoist to my shop ceiling.

If you attack it from above and drill any stainless just be super careful not go fast or let it get hot at all , unlike mild steel, SS will harden and nothing this side of creation will cut it. As large as that 3/4" bolt head is I'd seriously doubt you'll have success drilling it off before it becomes hardened.

Surely don't envy your project and it'll be interesting how this unfolds. You'll certainly earn your merit badge on this one. Pat Adams and others do us all a huge favor when they post such great repair pieces with pics.
Good luck, Mike
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Mike, I don't think I'll be able to reach the nut from below even after a full lift. I also don't think I can drill away that large of a chunk of bolt head. It would probably take at least 3 or 4 progressively larger drill bits against hardened SS. I am, however, thinkin' that damn bolt head's gotta go! First I'll see if I can get a Dremel tool blade under the bolt head and cut the whole bolt head off. I plan on taking it very slow to make sure it doesn't overheat and to make sure I don't cut into the upper plate. I may do this "wet" for cooling. As a backup plan, I'm considering a Dremel cut from above on the bolt head's top with the same precautions as above. I might see if I can can get a paint scraper under the bolt head to provide a little more protection to the plate below as I cut. I plan on finding the bolt head's dead center and outline the bolt shaft perimeter on top of the bolt head. Then, slowly cut downward and cut away everything that ain't the bolt shaft. If I cut away ALL of the bolt head, the centerboard should drop during a boat lift (of some sort) regardless of the cause of the problem below. BrianW

P.S. Sure would like to have YOUR shop ceiling if it would support a boat! :cry:
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,612
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Maybe you do not Have to Cut the Head Off

Would it be easier to cut the sides off? Five or six cuts off the sides of the head until what is left will fit through the hole. Might be more cutting but it would be easier to get at.
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Rick, I didn't describe it very well, but that was the method I described in "my backup plan" above. As I think about it, that may be the best head cutting attack. It will also make the most use of each Dremel cutting disk. Thanks, BrianW
 

MABell

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Dec 9, 2003
232
Hunter 26 Orygun
As a side note, Brian -
Didn't you post some time ago about some electrical corrosion. The rudder plates as I recall. Do suppose this might be related?
 
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