Hi, I'm wanting to replace the centerboard line on my H-26 (1994) this year. It hasn't broken yet, but I'm thinking preventively. I've read through archived messages on this site, and found good information about how to do it. My question is: which strength of sealant/adhesive should I use on the bolt behind the compression post when putting the unit back together. I've not had experience using 4200 or 5200 yet, but I understand that 5200 is for "permanent" applications. If I use 5200 on this job, then find that I need to do this procedure again 5-10 years down the road, will it be easy enough to remove the bolt again? Also, what is the shelf life of these sealants once the tube is opened (I would tape the nozzle tip shut to try an preserve it for future uses)? Will they last from one year to the next? Thanks for any insight! Gerald
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Go with 4200
I am getting ready to do the very same thing this coming weekend on my 1994 23.5. I am going to use 4200 marine silicone to seal the bolt. I'm a little aprehensive to use 5200 because it is permanent even though you should never have to do this again. I ordered new sheeves and bushings from Hunter ($25 worth of parts). because I figured If I am going through the trouble of dropping the center board then I may as well change out everything I can while I am down there. Good luck. Jonathan Costello s/v Heeling Powers
I am getting ready to do the very same thing this coming weekend on my 1994 23.5. I am going to use 4200 marine silicone to seal the bolt. I'm a little aprehensive to use 5200 because it is permanent even though you should never have to do this again. I ordered new sheeves and bushings from Hunter ($25 worth of parts). because I figured If I am going through the trouble of dropping the center board then I may as well change out everything I can while I am down there. Good luck. Jonathan Costello s/v Heeling Powers
H26 Centerboard Line
This is a common subject for H26/260 owners. Do us a favor and provide some detail on how you did it, problems encountered and maybe some pictures. Add your experience to the H26/260 knowledgebase for others to readily access. http://kb.sailboatowners.com/brand?model=20 I think Hunter uses 3M5200 for this area but I'm not sure. Maybe a call or e-mail to customer support would help. I get my 5200 from Home Depot for $7.95 a tube, it's twice that at marine stores. Once you open a tube it's very hard to keep it fresh and I don't think the mfgr recommends it. My guess is you'll use at least one tube anyway. One trick I've learned with caulk is to thread a large, long (at least 3") screw into the nozzel opening and tape the tip well so air does not get in. I then smear some clear GE silicon over the tip to keep the air out. I would not count on keeping it fresh much longer than a month or so if that.
This is a common subject for H26/260 owners. Do us a favor and provide some detail on how you did it, problems encountered and maybe some pictures. Add your experience to the H26/260 knowledgebase for others to readily access. http://kb.sailboatowners.com/brand?model=20 I think Hunter uses 3M5200 for this area but I'm not sure. Maybe a call or e-mail to customer support would help. I get my 5200 from Home Depot for $7.95 a tube, it's twice that at marine stores. Once you open a tube it's very hard to keep it fresh and I don't think the mfgr recommends it. My guess is you'll use at least one tube anyway. One trick I've learned with caulk is to thread a large, long (at least 3") screw into the nozzel opening and tape the tip well so air does not get in. I then smear some clear GE silicon over the tip to keep the air out. I would not count on keeping it fresh much longer than a month or so if that.
I'll take photos and post them
This seems to be one of those "I'd like to see that" type of projects. I'll take photos of the process and post them in the very near future. Wish me luck. I'm going in.
This seems to be one of those "I'd like to see that" type of projects. I'll take photos of the process and post them in the very near future. Wish me luck. I'm going in.
I stand corrected, 5200 it is
I just spoke with Hunter technical support. They recommend sealing the bolt with 5200, therefore that is what I will be using.
I just spoke with Hunter technical support. They recommend sealing the bolt with 5200, therefore that is what I will be using.
how to get access
I'm planning this same change out on my H240 this spring. How do I get access to the area? I can take the plate off inside the boat. Will this give me enough clearance to change out the uphaul lines? Or do I need to lift the boat off the trailer somehow? thanks. Ken
I'm planning this same change out on my H240 this spring. How do I get access to the area? I can take the plate off inside the boat. Will this give me enough clearance to change out the uphaul lines? Or do I need to lift the boat off the trailer somehow? thanks. Ken
5200 is permanent, but
you can cut it off with single edge razor, blades, sharp chisels, etc. It is flexible enough so you can cut with a blade, pry the fitting up a bit, slide a blade in, cut, pry, cut pry, etc. All done with great finess, of course, so as not to wreck expensive hardware and gel coat. A sharpened paint scraper can be helpful. I have stored and reused 5200 six months later with a 5" spike stuck down the tube tip. It takes vice grips and twisting to get it out. The top bit of 5200 hardens in the tube, but the spike leaves a hole for the uncured 5200 to come out through. Sometimes you need to ream out the hole with the spike to clear it. It's not like a fresh tube, but it works. Good for those small jobs where you just need a bit of caulk/sealer. For a job like the CB line, I would have a fresh tube on hand. I'm as cheap as anyone on this list (yes, you may take that as a challenge-a cheaper than thou thread?), but ten bucks to get that job right is cheap enough. It's just too much work if you have to do it over.
you can cut it off with single edge razor, blades, sharp chisels, etc. It is flexible enough so you can cut with a blade, pry the fitting up a bit, slide a blade in, cut, pry, cut pry, etc. All done with great finess, of course, so as not to wreck expensive hardware and gel coat. A sharpened paint scraper can be helpful. I have stored and reused 5200 six months later with a 5" spike stuck down the tube tip. It takes vice grips and twisting to get it out. The top bit of 5200 hardens in the tube, but the spike leaves a hole for the uncured 5200 to come out through. Sometimes you need to ream out the hole with the spike to clear it. It's not like a fresh tube, but it works. Good for those small jobs where you just need a bit of caulk/sealer. For a job like the CB line, I would have a fresh tube on hand. I'm as cheap as anyone on this list (yes, you may take that as a challenge-a cheaper than thou thread?), but ten bucks to get that job right is cheap enough. It's just too much work if you have to do it over.
Off the trailer on the hard
Having a travel lift haul you out and put you on stands is the safest way to go. I have read threads of people jacking up the stern to drop the centerboard/swing keel enough to get it out. I'm not going to risk getting crushed under the boat or putting too much pressure in one spot and damaging the hull. I spending the money and having it hauled out and set on blocks.
Having a travel lift haul you out and put you on stands is the safest way to go. I have read threads of people jacking up the stern to drop the centerboard/swing keel enough to get it out. I'm not going to risk getting crushed under the boat or putting too much pressure in one spot and damaging the hull. I spending the money and having it hauled out and set on blocks.
5200 it is!
Thanks for all the input. I'll definitely go with the 5200 sealant then. It will probably be a couple months before I actually have a chance to do this job, so in the mean time, I'll be curious to hear how it goes for those of you doing this project too (Good luck to you, Jonathan!). --Gerald
Thanks for all the input. I'll definitely go with the 5200 sealant then. It will probably be a couple months before I actually have a chance to do this job, so in the mean time, I'll be curious to hear how it goes for those of you doing this project too (Good luck to you, Jonathan!). --Gerald
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