H 23 transom rot

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Del, Ackels

I cut the wood out of the lower part of the transom to replace some rotten wood that had gotten wet from the rudder pivot bolts leaking. When I did I was really surprise I found that the plywood was laid in in little blocks 3" x3". This makes up the lower section in the transom. My question is why did Hunter do it this way? I can think of three possible answers. 1. they used scraps to save on cost 2. They did it this way because it's easyer when making a compond curve on the transom. 3. to help stop thw wicking of mosture. I did notice that the bottom blocks were very wet and the next ones up noticeably less wet. The third row was just very slightly damp. Aso I wanted to know what type of paint did hunter use in the bilge?
 
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Mark Sanford

Brownish colour seepage

I have an 87 H23 also. Last fall I noticed some brown coloured water stains which seemed to be comming from the area of the transom, particularly around the rudder mounting bolts. I was wondering if this was caused by rotting wood in the transom. Did you notice any of these stains? If so, how bad. Does it look like a difficult repair? Thanks for you comments. Mark
 
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mike43067

'87 H23

Sounds like seepage from rot to me......but I've a question for you. Do all the '87s have the aluminum Z spar mast and boom? Just curious, mine does.
 
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Jon Bastien

Transom seepage

Hi, folks... I also have an '87 H23, and discovered shortly after I purchased it that the lower pivot pin for the rudder leaked profusely - At one point, the boards that make up the cabin sole were floating before I discovered the leak. Upon closer inspection, I found that the leak had apparently been there for some time- The bolts for that pivot pin didn't match, and there was a piece of plywood shoring up the (now rotted) transom. I haven't made the correct repairs yet, but it's high on my list of priorities. (A little silicon sealant solved the problem for the short-term.) I hadn't noticed the 3"x3" squares of plywood glassed into the transom; I'm going to have to check this out next time I'm on the boat. If mine is like this, that should help make the repairs a little easier (I think). If I had to make a guess, I'd go with the theory that it reduces wicking in the event of a leak (though it makes me wonder about structural integrity). Once you've made the repairs, I'd recommend checking that lower pivot pin REGULARLY, as well as the cockpit drain thru-hull. Both were leaking on my boat when I purchased it, and the pin likes to work loose... Oh, and Mike, I also have the aluminum Z-Spar mast & boom. Do you need parts / advice, or are you just curious? :eek:) --Jon Bastien, jbastien@mm0.net '2 Sheets to the Wind'
 
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Geoff Kloster

About that cockpit drain

Jon mentioned checking the cockpit drain for leaks.In one of the sailing mags recently there was an article addressing this. The author pointed out that most of us forget about the through hull for the cockpit drain and if it's below waterline the boat would sink if a leak pops open when you are away from the boat. The cockpit drain throughhull on my '86 h23 is at the water line, low enough to allow a trickle of water in. Of course, after the water trickles in for a while the water line is higher on the boat and the trickle becomes a brisk flow. Has anyone opened the transom higher to accomodate the cockpit drain and plugged the waterline through hull? Could an oval opening be cut in the transom at the level of the drain sump so there is no hose to crack and break? Geoff
 
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Mark Sanford

Boom Manufacturer

Yes Mike, My 87 H23 has a mast and boom manufactured by ZSpar. I was able to source a few parts for it from England. Let me know if you need the address.
 
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mike43067

no parts needed

No guys I don't need any parts.....just curious. I'm glad to have the Zspar mast though. It's much lighter than the big white aluminum mast on the 86s. Has anyone ran their halyards to the cock pit? I'm considering it but I like the jam cleat, horn cleat and winch arrangement on the Zspar mast.
 
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Jon Bastien

Raising the cockpit drain

I hadn't considered doing this, largely because I keep the boat on the trailer. It seems to make sense to raise it above the waterline, though, and that shouldn't be too difficult a modification. In fact, if you made the through-transom portion of it large enough, it could perform double-duty and allow a fuel line from an external tank to pass through the transom without interfering with the rudder... (OK, now I've got that thinking cap on...) --Jon Bastien '2 Sheets'
 
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Dave Condon

Transom

If the wood has rotted in the transom, then it is time to repair it as it is structurally weakened. If you do not know how to repair a transom, then let the guys who do repair it for you. As for Z-Spar parts, call Tom Thomas at 904-462-3760.
 
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