Gunwales on H31

[IanJ]

I have a 1981 Hunter 31. I am stripping the worn caulking from the side base rail that the stanchions are bolted too, (a name for this rail with all the holes in, bolted onto the gunwale would be welcomed), and notice that there is mould underneath in places , mainly algae, from a leaky caulk. Is there a safe way to flush this out and dry it, before re caulking, or should I take the whole rail off from stem to stern? (Frightened to find out what might be lurking underneath!) Presumably the deck is completely fibreglass, so rot can't have set in anywhere?

 

[Steve Dion]

Ian:

I do not think you have a 1981 H31.

The caulking that you are referring to is probably something that the previous owner did to prevent leaks. If you boat is a 1981 model it is probably a H30. These boats have an inward flange and quite often the leaks can be fixed by re-torquing all of the bolts on the "toe rail". You need someone down below to hold the nut and someone on the deck to hold the screws.

If you have a H31 83-87 this can be done from the outside. THe H31 had an outward flange.

To remove the mold and mildew you can just use hot soapy water with bleach.

 

[IanJ]

Steve, I don't know why I don't just write to you directly, you are always a mine of information. You are right, it is a 1984 H31. No leaks below, but just had rotten caulking topside, and thought it needed replacing. I will take a pic this afternoon to confirm, but seems like you are saying that the caulk isnt needed anyway except for leak prevention. Presumably if I put some bleach in there, then dry it as best I can, it wont matter too much if not 100% dry under new caulk, as fibreglass top anyway?

 

[Keith13315]

I have stripped the caulk off of my 84 H31 toe rail and re-caulked. For re-caulking use masking tape and a good caulking tool that can be purchased at a home store fro about 5 bucks. It makes a professional looking job and yo can press the caulk in with the tool and nor smear it on the deck.

 

[Steve Dion]

Keith/Ian:

There was never any caulking on the inside of these toe rails. I "must" assume that the reason for the caulking was the fact that someone determined that there was a leak caused by the toe rail.

If it were me, I would remove the caulking and see if you get any leaks. If you do, I would start by checking all of the bolts to see if they are tight. I think that Hunter used a buytl caulking between the hull and the deck. Normally this provide a lifetime joint seal unless there had been some damage.

Removing the rail is a big job, but much easier than it would be on the Cherubini's with an inboard flange (one advantge to this generation of Hunters). If you decide to remove it, I would suggest that you have two people a tie it to the lifelines to prevent it from going in the drink!

 

[ktm500mx]

in between the deck and the hull
is butyl tape and the toe rail is bolted thru it.
on my boat the tape had gap in it so i cleaned out the old butyl tape and refilled it with 3m 5200 and have not had any more problems with it.
later mike

 

[IanJ]

Steve, Attaching photos to be sure we are all talking about the same thing. Having an old boat, it looks like cosmetically, re caulking would be needed, but heeding to your advice if not. Really worried about damp and mould getting in cracks, but assuming all plastic topside?

 

[Robert 47]

lanJ, I think you are worring for nothing. I have the same problem almost every other week here in the midwest with all the heat and humidity. A little Soft Scrub, brush and it will all go away. For more subborn areas, you can use a power washer. But not to much pressure, and not real close. But cleans up real nice.

 

[Steve Dion]

Ian:

That joint was never caulked. Ours usually had weeds growing in the joint in the early spring. The dirt would accumulate in there and a seed would start a forest.

If the toe rail does start leaking you may need to look into the fix that KTM mentioned otherwise you should leave it alone.

It would not be a bad idea to torque down the rail bolts if you have any doubts.

 

[Robert 47]

I agree with Steve. For some reason dirt and seeds gather there and will start growing little weeds. Like stated previously, just rinse it off with soap and a water hose will be fine. But I do beleive there is a buttle chaulk bed between the deck and hull there when they put the deck onto the hull a the factory. Good luck.

 

[kloudie1]

Same as on the 34's.. That gap does not need to be sealed because it is sitting on top of the outward turned deck molding. The hull outward horizontal flange meets the deck flange under the outer edge of the toe rail extrusion. The seal is really between the hull flange and the deck flange. The toe rail sits on top and has a downward flange that hides the deck-to-hull joint.. Some folks caulk it just because it looks like it wants caulk .. I leave it open and clean it out with a hose stream.

 

[Scott]

Have owned an '86 H31 for 21 years now. After the second year started to tighten the toerail bolts every year. Was amazed at how loose the bolts were - two or three turns to tighten. Since then, maybe an 1/8 to rarely a 1/4 turn to tighten. I suggest using a 3/8" rachet to tighten. I tried a 1/2' at first, and deciced I could crack the fiberglass and damage the hull/deck seal. Never had a leak or any problems since.

 

[IanJ]

Thanks for the advice guys. Whilst I have you H31 experts on the hook, anyone got any solution to the water that sits in the genoa track grooves. Doesnt go anywhere, just collects. Scared to Dremel a groove in the deck, but cannot see the point of these if there is nowhere for water to go.

 

[kloudie1]

Those grooves keep ya from stubbing toes on the track.. When you tack to the other side, the water will drain ! (don't grind a groove because you will go through the deck glass and into the plywood core underneath !)

 

[Steve Dion]

Ian:

Just leave it alone. You have an issue with the ports that also do not drain. (Boat - Water, they do together) <g>

 

[IanJ]

Ha ha. Thanks Steve, will do