great ones play hurt and/or dumb ones get hurt

[MrSkeet]

Yesterday was my first reef of the season. When I got to the public dock in Marblehead (village st), a local sailing school was bringing in ten or twelve very wet kids; their instructors had them out at harbor mouth in 15-20 knots in their precision 15s. They capsized with harbor master fishing'em out of the water. I'm sure the instructors in their boston whalers helped too. Just the same, scuttle butt, while waiting for the motor launch, was evenly divided between castigating the instructors vs doubting the sense in sailing today. Me, I planned on reefing prior to leaving my mooring and setting the jib leads as far forward as possible, anticipating very little jib. Reefing was OK, yet I stubbornly tried wrestling the main while tie-ing off the loose sail along its new foot. A strong gust had the boom push me off balance, falling against the life line. For sure, if not for the life line, I would've gone in, losing my glasses, maybe my shoes and certainly my pride. As it was, I've sore ribs and am scheduled to shoot four rounds of twelve gauge skeet in tomorrow's annual club tournament. As I say, the great ones play hurt or the dumb ones get hurt.
The sailing yesterday was fast and furious, I caught up to a catalina 275( me with reef and very little jib, them with full main) by the time I crossed salem sound yet then went up wind to rubber neck a 30 foot cruising sloop grounded on the rapidly growing (tide was going out) rocks off lynch park in Beverly. Today's news sadly said the solo sailor passed away, natural causes, with his 32.5' benneteau washing ashore there.
Curiously, how do other capri 22s handle 15 - 20 knots ? With reefing and little jib, I was mostly in control (save for the gusts) yet ended the day worn out and particularly sore on right side where I hit the life lines.
Wooster

 

[Rightbrainer]

Since my boat is a tall rig, wing keel (suicidal, I know) de-powering is important to me, too.

Level 1: Tighten everything up (Cunningham, outhaul and backstay) to flatten the main. I move the jib blocks back to let the top of the sail twist and spill wind for the upper third, or so. I sheet in hard and trim the main with the traveller. That lets me luff the forward half to two-thirds of the sail and just have the tight leech pulling. You have to be on your toes when it puffs. If that is too much power, you can also ease the vang to let the main twist, too.

These further techniques are really mostly for beating. Running and reaching with full sails usually isn't a problem.

Level 2: First reef in the main: very tight halyard and reefing line to flatten the main. I also have reefing reinforcements in my RF jib, so I might roll it a in foot or two. Leave the blocks aft for twist. I don't have luff foam on my genny, so unfortunately, it bags a little when reefed.

Level 3: Second reef in the main. Since the first reef only gets my main down to the size of a standard rig, I needed a second set of reefing cringles. If necessary, I reef the genny way in. The back half of a genoa is as flat as a bed sheet, so it doesn't generate that much power but it helps to balance the boat. When reefing the jib, turn downwind to blanket it with the main so you will get a nice smooth roll. This will carry me up to about 20mph with gusts to 25 or 30 and that's about where I max out.

Level 4: Reefed main only. Hopefully you planned your sail so your dock is downwind.

 

[MrSkeet]

I do mostly what you say, e.g., flattening the main yet my jib block thinking is sort of opposite, that is, the less jib unrolled, the further forward the blocks are. For several years, I thought of this issue like an old math teacher (was for five years) and moved the blocks so that the jib sheets made a perpendicular line to the jib stay. This year, I only look up the leech and position the block so that leech is uniform. Seems to help when wind pipes up and jib is small. I do have a three year old 130 Ullman genoa with three staggered foam inserts inside the luff.
Being on a mooring makes for easy comings and goings regardless of wind direction, that is, can always head directly into wind when coming onto the mooring.
So, am I understanding you correctly in that you move the jib blocks aft when only a little (60 % ?) of jib is unfurled ?
Achy Wooster

 

[NewportNewsMike]

.... am I understanding you correctly in that you move the jib blocks aft when only a little (60 % ?) of jib is unfurled ?

I have never tried that but it does make enough sense that next time I think I will try it - more data points in the ole' knowledge base!

I normally do the "move the jib cars til sheet is perpendicular to the forestay" thing. This gives me somewhat equal tension in both the foot and leech of the jib.

In heavier winds (still with a full jib) moving the blocks rearward changes the jib sheet angle to tension the foot more and the leech less. This flattens the bottom portion of the jib and allows to top to twist off some. Both of these will reduce drive somewhat but allows me to stay more upright and moving.

When you roll up the jib and still leave the blocks were they were originally or even move them even farther aft, in my mental picture, the foot gets more tension and the leech less. If the leech tension is low enough, would this allow the top part of the reduced-jib to twist off and spill some wind? Or does it just ruin the overall shape of the jib?

Next time I get some heavier conditions, I am going to experiment some and see what shakes out.

 

[Rightbrainer]

I move my jib blocks aft of the perpendicular neutral position to induce twist in the jib if I need to de-power it. If I altered the jib size either by reefing or changing sails, I'd move the blocks accordingly and then adjust the sheeting angle to add twist to reduce power if necessary.

 

[MrSkeet]

That makes sense; with more sheet tension along the foot, there's less on the leech and leech is more likely to twist or "open up". My jib blocks are more forward this year than in the past and I think the leech is more consistent, no twisting. In big wind, I use less jib, maybe I should try de-powering the jib though it's the main that does me in. Next big breeze I'll try letting the main's leech twist (little or no boom vang ?).
Yesterday and today have been dee-liteful, manageable breezes strong enough to really scoot - yesterday riding a three foot swell took me past half way rock (mid point between tip of cape ann and boston). There are 300 plus opti prams outside the harbor Tuesday thru Friday, the "New England Optimus Pram Regatta". There are a surprisingly large number of attendant motor boats, 30 or so, riding herd: given the age of these solo sailors (8 to 12), this flotilla of motors adds to the safety.
Wooster who didn't do so well at the skeet competition

 

[Rrusse11]

Gents,

Possibly soon to be a new owner, see my recent post. And while I've raced a fair bit, I have next to no experience with roller furling jibs. I gather no one has a purpose built #3 jib? Ie. one that is approx 100% of the foretriangle with the clew level with the mast and heavier cloth? Changing headsails underway does require competent crew. And I notice on at least some of the blurbs on the Catalina 22 that there are seperate jib tracks further fwd and inboard of the "standard" car placement. The really slick boats have a twin groove foil on the forestay with dual halyards so that you can raise the step down, or up, headsail size BEFORE you drop the other headsail. Another route on cruising boats is twin forestays so that the next sail can be hanked on before dropping the first headsail. A quick change of gears and a great option downwind for wing and wing. Spinnakers are exciting, but you get back to that competent crew. With a fractional rig a small headsail keeps the boat balanced and driving to windward, then it's down to mainsail control. Traveller to leeward and an adjustable backstay ON.

Just my $.02 from many years on Sydney Harbor where the standard onshore breeze on a summer's afternoon was at least 15-20 knots

Cheers,
R*2

 

[shnool]

Given your desire for what appears to be "racing controls" I revise my prior comment and strongly urge you to find a Capri 22 with the racing package... much of what you want to do is already included within that boat. Examples:
Rope clutches on coach roof.
Twin winches on coach roof, for halyards, and/or sheeting a 100% jib inside the shrouds (where is CSINNET when you need him)
Backstay adjuster
Also sometimes a twin headfoil
Dual jib halyards
Spin halyard

These are some of the things the "racing package" provides. The good news is there are a decent number of boats that shipped with the racing package. You should be able to find one for a reasonable price. Adding those features onto the one you found, might be a wash once you are done adding equipment.

My prior boat, that Curt on here now has, was a wing keel standard rig, but with racing package. I felt the setup on it was quite good. The ONLY regret I had was the prior owner lost the spinnaker pole.

 

[Rrusse11]

schnool,

I agree that finding a boat with the racing package included is a preferred option. However I just verbally committed over the phone to the owner for $3800. The tall rig, wing keel, good trailer, and closeness to home, (4 miles), and overall very good condition, made the decision for me.

The additional bits and pieces, jib and spinnaker tracks, spinnaker gear, the mast already has a cutout for the sheave, backstay adjust, are all relatively simple to install. Second hand kites are available, and I'll come up with a pole, necessary anyway IMO as a jib whisker if nothing else. A halyard winch on the cabin top is essential. All can be added incrementally and as they become available. I have a lot of fun scouring Ebay, Craigslist, et al anyway.

'll definitely be adding a secondary block at the head of the mast for a maximized drifter/reacher or asymetrical .5oz. Not used often, but a killer if you get the right conditions when racing. Maybe a short bowsprit anchor roller added on for an extended tack point for the monster drifter, {). I'm figuring a grand or two with some bargain hunting.

I'll have fun working it up, won't be the first time I've fiddled with rig alterations/improvements. I'm not fussed about class specs or regs.
If I do get back into racing it'll be informal handicap stuff, I'll see if I can generate some interest next summer in the 1000 Islands and get a fleet running.

Many thanks for the input, much appreciated!

Cheers,
R*2