How often do you grease the bearings on your trailer? Is one type of marine grease better than the other? Can you over grease the bearings? I'm learing, I'd rather not do it the hard way. Thanks for all input.
greasing bearings
- Thread starter kingprawn
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- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
annually with white lithium grease
I typically trail less than 500 miles a year, and each trip is never longer than an hour. I do make it a habit of feeling the hubs for heat immediately after getting out of the vehicle at the end of the trip though. It should only be barely preceptibely warm, if at all, and definately not hot. I have grease nipples right on the cap to make topping up with a grease gun easy.
I typically trail less than 500 miles a year, and each trip is never longer than an hour. I do make it a habit of feeling the hubs for heat immediately after getting out of the vehicle at the end of the trip though. It should only be barely preceptibely warm, if at all, and definately not hot. I have grease nipples right on the cap to make topping up with a grease gun easy.
Wheel bearing Grease
I have not done any trailering in about five years but when I did I used some heavy duty wheel bearing grease at the beginning of each year with new seals. I also had some bearing caps with a grease fitting to shoot some more grease in when ever,but be careful to over grease so as not to blow the seal. I did trailer every weekend from may to sept and one repacking per year was good,the inner wheel bearing is the bearing to keep an eye on if your hubs go in the water a lot,if you trailer a lot more it would not hurt to repack more. You don't want that salt water getting in on the bearings and axle shaft and seize the bearing to the shaft,heavy duty bearing grease is to be used and never had a problem. nick
I have not done any trailering in about five years but when I did I used some heavy duty wheel bearing grease at the beginning of each year with new seals. I also had some bearing caps with a grease fitting to shoot some more grease in when ever,but be careful to over grease so as not to blow the seal. I did trailer every weekend from may to sept and one repacking per year was good,the inner wheel bearing is the bearing to keep an eye on if your hubs go in the water a lot,if you trailer a lot more it would not hurt to repack more. You don't want that salt water getting in on the bearings and axle shaft and seize the bearing to the shaft,heavy duty bearing grease is to be used and never had a problem. nick
Annually is a good idea
Clean, inspect, repack with wheel bearing grease, replace the seals. bearing buddys are a good idea also. I check my hubs for heat when towing, just remember that the trailer brakes will heat up the hubs also.
Clean, inspect, repack with wheel bearing grease, replace the seals. bearing buddys are a good idea also. I check my hubs for heat when towing, just remember that the trailer brakes will heat up the hubs also.
more info tomorrow
I'll put up a picture tomorrow of what's on my trailer. There is a zerk fitting on the outside, so I'm assuming it has some form of bearing protector. I also have a question about the hubs/wheels since I've never seen any like these before. I'm contemplating replacement, but I'd like to get some opinions first. I've also discovered recently that my trailer is completely illegal right now because the previous owner disabled the brakes. It came equipped with surge brakes but currently has no brake lines. How are tongue extentions dealt with when using surge brakes? Are the brake lines disconnected and capped when the tongue is extended?
I'll put up a picture tomorrow of what's on my trailer. There is a zerk fitting on the outside, so I'm assuming it has some form of bearing protector. I also have a question about the hubs/wheels since I've never seen any like these before. I'm contemplating replacement, but I'd like to get some opinions first. I've also discovered recently that my trailer is completely illegal right now because the previous owner disabled the brakes. It came equipped with surge brakes but currently has no brake lines. How are tongue extentions dealt with when using surge brakes? Are the brake lines disconnected and capped when the tongue is extended?
Grease early
rather than late. I waited till spring to do mine and the water precipitated out of grease over the winter and ruined the races on one hub. Next time I will service them at the end of the season. The shop that replaced my trailer brakes recommended I use StaPlex Premium Red grease. It has excellent water repllence (same as marine grease) and turns pink when it has water in suspension. I use transparent "Bearing Savers" with a spring loaded zerk plate so I can see what's going on. The spring and overfill hole help to keep an overzealous greaser from blowing out the seal behind the inner bearing and letting in LOTS of water. I started a thread earlier looking for the proper hub nut torque so as not to overheat the bearings, but none of the trailer websites or forums I've seen say anything other than "hand tight". I'd be a lot more comfortable with an objective measurement, but "you can't always get what you want". One more maintenance note: don't forget to adjust the brake shoes occasionally once you get them hooked up.
rather than late. I waited till spring to do mine and the water precipitated out of grease over the winter and ruined the races on one hub. Next time I will service them at the end of the season. The shop that replaced my trailer brakes recommended I use StaPlex Premium Red grease. It has excellent water repllence (same as marine grease) and turns pink when it has water in suspension. I use transparent "Bearing Savers" with a spring loaded zerk plate so I can see what's going on. The spring and overfill hole help to keep an overzealous greaser from blowing out the seal behind the inner bearing and letting in LOTS of water. I started a thread earlier looking for the proper hub nut torque so as not to overheat the bearings, but none of the trailer websites or forums I've seen say anything other than "hand tight". I'd be a lot more comfortable with an objective measurement, but "you can't always get what you want". One more maintenance note: don't forget to adjust the brake shoes occasionally once you get them hooked up.
Bob, you really
only go finger tight, no torque load. Try this, tighten the nut & wiggle the wheel. There should be a VERY little wiggle when correct. If you spin the wheel, it should go round n round with no scrapes or hangups. Just like doing front wheel bearings on your car with rear wheel drive-well when I was a kid anyway. The real trick is making sure there is correct amount of grease packed into the bearing itself. Fair Winds Kevin
only go finger tight, no torque load. Try this, tighten the nut & wiggle the wheel. There should be a VERY little wiggle when correct. If you spin the wheel, it should go round n round with no scrapes or hangups. Just like doing front wheel bearings on your car with rear wheel drive-well when I was a kid anyway. The real trick is making sure there is correct amount of grease packed into the bearing itself. Fair Winds Kevin
wheel picture
Here's one of the wheels. I've never seen one before that bolted onto the hub this way. Anyone have experience with this setup? Should I go through the expense of replacing these or just deal with them?
Here's one of the wheels. I've never seen one before that bolted onto the hub this way. Anyone have experience with this setup? Should I go through the expense of replacing these or just deal with them?
Wheel Picture
Your wheel/axle looks like setup used to transport manufactured housing. Trailer may be home made using that axle. No problem, tire/wheel probably 14.5 inch size. They are avalable at most tire outlets, may have to be ordered. Bearings can be obtained at most trailer shops.
Your wheel/axle looks like setup used to transport manufactured housing. Trailer may be home made using that axle. No problem, tire/wheel probably 14.5 inch size. They are avalable at most tire outlets, may have to be ordered. Bearings can be obtained at most trailer shops.
it's a magic tilt
It's all acedemic now that I've dismantled my coupler and found it to need replacement. I'll still take the hubs off and pack/replace the bearings, but it looks like I'll be a land lubber for a bit until I get it the old coupler chiselled off and a new one welded on.
It's all acedemic now that I've dismantled my coupler and found it to need replacement. I'll still take the hubs off and pack/replace the bearings, but it looks like I'll be a land lubber for a bit until I get it the old coupler chiselled off and a new one welded on.
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